Bendix Brakes

Steve Seidl

Steve Seidl

Senior Member
Looking at installing Bendix Brakes in rear of pickup. I have hydraulic standards 39-41 now and not too carzy about them. What would I need to change to Bendix Lincoln type Brakes ? Also what would cost roughly be for parts? Thanks in Advance !! Sid.
 
Complete Boling Bros/MT Lincoln 2 inch rear brake kit for your installation lists for 1452.00 your cost 1307.00 plus shipping. 402-749-1932 Cornhusker Rod And Custom.
 
I have Bendix brakes on all four corners of my 32 - they work great and are self-adjusting, so they tend to STAY working great. The original Lockheed style brakes can/do work fine, though they require correctly arced shoes, you must know how to adjust them, and you need to keep adjusting them.

Correction: I had a brain fart - the custom Bendix setup I have does not have "self-adjusters" - it has a star-wheel with a spring above it.
 
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One thing to ponder is WHERE you install them. The front brakes do the majority of the work, so if I had a choice - I'd put them on the front.
 
I was at a car show on the weekend and Spoke with a fellow who had a 32 roadster with a flathead. Looking at his front brakes he had 45 fin Buicks and what looked like Lincoln backing plates. I asked him if they were and he said no they are Buick which he adapted.
They looked just like the Lincolns I have on my touring. Anyone else done this swap>
 
Complete 2 inch front Boling Bros/MT Lincoln front brake kit list 1206.00 cost 1085.00. Plus shipping. You could use your stock drums and the MT Lincoln 1.75 inch backing plates. Loaded front backing plates list 400.00 cost 360.00 plus shipping. You could do the same on the rear. Rear loaded 1.75 backing plates with E brake list 575.00 cost 518.00 plus shipping.
 
Steve: I bought complete set of 2 in. wide Boling Bros. Bendix brakes from Krylon32 a few years ago and am very happy. He is a very reputable vendor will fix you up at a fair price. If possible, install them on all four wheels and never look back.
 
I have a 32 fenderless roadster 12in Bendix brakes on the front 40 Ford Lockheed on the rear. It stops great. I also have 32 Tudor with original Lincoln Bendix brakes front and rear. The Tudor stops great as well.
IMHO the Bendix front with Lockheed rear is a great combination. No Need to spend the extra $$ on the Bendix set up for the rear.
 
I wonder where Lincoln and Bendix came into the descriptions. At least Sid called his brake plan "Lincoln type". As for Bendix, none of these brakes are made by Bendix who made all the hydraulics for the Zephyrs. The real Zephyr/Bendix brakes were all 1.75" wide shoes. I have done several transplants to vintage Fords and have always used the parking brake cables from the Zephyr which runs the cable through a conduit mounted to the frame rails. Currrently I am using the Ford cables which require some rerouting around the Ford rear radius rods. The repop brakes, which CAN be quite excellent on an old ford, will not even fit a Lincoln or Zephyr of the era without the repop adaptations. Early on with the reproduced brakes, they were referred to as '39 Lincoln. Not even close, as the '39s were the deep recessed on the front where the so called '39 Lincoln was flat like the rears. Lots of double talk out here not to be exceded by the Bull... Inquiring minds: Fred A
 
Fred,
Would it be possible for you to post photos showing the differences between the OEM 1939 Lincoln brakes and backing plates and the current Boling Bros. Lincoln style reproductions so that we all could see the differences and clear up the "double talk" you speak of?
Thanks, JIM
 
Steve Seidl said:
Looking at installing Bendix Brakes in rear of pickup. I have hydraulic standards 39-41 now and not too carzy about them. What would I need to change to Bendix Lincoln type Brakes ? Also what would cost roughly be for parts? Thanks in Advance !! Sid.
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The Bendix brakes are definitely better but I wonder if you really have a different problem? What master cylinder are you running and what ratio do you have for your linkage? Pictures? Is the problem new, what changed? Any history?

Charlie Stephens
 
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Bored&Stroked said:
One thing to ponder is WHERE you install them. The front brakes do the majority of the work, so if I had a choice - I'd put them on the front.
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Dale....There are a lot of guys SUCCESSFULLY running the MT "Bendix" type brakes on front in combination with the original Ford/Lockheed brakes on the rear. This combination apparently works well because as you noted above, the front pair of brakes do the majority of the braking, and especially so as WEIGHT TRANSFER increases.

I believe that you were looking for the term "self-energizing" rather than "self-adjusting".

Coop

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I have Boling Bros/MT Car front brakes along with ford rear brakes on 2 cars. I ran my Model A over a truck brake force test station .The brakes pulled the same on each side and had near perfect 60/40 front to rear bias.
Could not ask for better brakes and no proportioning valve needed

John
 
Steve Seidl said:
Thanks al lfor your input ! I have info to run with. Yes!
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Here is all of Gary's contact info!

You can contact him directly at:

Gary Mussman
122 Southern Hills • Hebron, NE • 68370.
Phone: 402-749-1932
__________________________________________

Gary's "Cornhuskers" web site at the link below! DD


http://myflatheadford.com/business-d...d-and-customs/


Or, by clicking the link BELOW, you can directly send a PM to Gary (Krylon32).

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/private.php?do=newpm&u=1914


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V8COOPMAN said:
I believe that you were looking for the term "self-energizing" rather than "self-adjusting".

Coop

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Click to expand...

These are obviously two different concepts.

To me the term 'self-energizing' has to do with the design/mounting of the brake shoes themselves - especially the lower/bottom mounting area (they 'float'). The 'floating' nature of the Lincoln/Bendix brakes allows the bottom to pivot and "rotate into" the drum - for increased braking power of the shoe that pivots and is forced as such. (The best way I can describe it). The rotational force of the drum provides the energy, the hydraulic cylinder at the top is the actuator that starts the process in motion.

'Self-Adjusting' replies to the various methods to auto-magically increment/turn the 'star wheel' to tighten the brakes. All the drum-brake self-adjusters that I've seen do their magic when you hit the brakes going backwards. The brake shoes 'self-energize' in the opposite direction as normal, and this causes the self-adjuster to push on the star-wheel and increment it a notch/tooth.

The Lincoln/Bendix brakes that we're talking about should be 'self-energizing' but they are not self-adjusting (they don't have the Type 1 or Type 2 Bendix self-adjusting setups - though I think it would be possible to retrofit them).
 
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