Bendix Brakes Question
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Flathead Fever
Well-known member
Brake Tips.
When I replaced brake shoes at work I always grabbed the parking brake cables and pulled down on them to make sure they locked the drums. If the cable movement seemed excessive I'd tighten up the adjustment before letting the lowering vehicle down on the hoist.
When you have assemble your brakes its always a good idea to grab the bottom of the shoes and forcefully pivot them back and forth and pull them towards yourself. This makes sure everything is hooked in well. It also proves the shoes will be able to self energize properly.
Put a little white lithium grease or brake caliper slide grease (preferred) on the backing plates where the shoes contact them. This helps them slide and prevents the backing plates from getting worn in those spots. Without the grease the shoes will eventually wear deep grooves in the backing plates. Then the shoes can get hung up in those grooves. To save the worn backing plates I use to weld up the grooves and grind them smooth again. They will never wear out if you lube those spots
Make sure the backing plate bolts are tight. Every once in awhile I would find some loose bolts. Loose bolts can wipeout the backing plates because they try to rotate during stops. This elongates the bolts holes, shears off the bolts and cracks the backing plate.
We had so many broken brake springs in the fleet at work that when they got to be around five year's old I replaced all of them when I did a brake job. You have them off anyway and they are not very expensive. That just about put an end to broken brake springs.
The number one mistake people make is installing the shoes backwards. If you understand why the longer shoe always goes to the rear on "self energizing" brakes it will help you remember that the long shoes goes towards the rear. Because of the self energizing action the rear shoe does more work than the front shoe. So the rear shoes will wear out at the same time as the front shoes the rear shoe is "usually" thicker. There are vehicles where the shoes are the same length. If there is a thicker shoe it would go to the rear.
People that have been taught that the long shoe always goes on the rear make the mistake of installing the long shoe to the rear on Early Ford hydraulic brakes. They are the opposite, the long shoe goes to the front. Its because of the way the shoes are anchored at the bottom. More force from the rotating drum is applied to the front shoe. The front shoe is called the 'forward braking shoe' and the rear shoe is the "reversing shoe".
If the brakes have self adjusters use your thumb to push on the cable to make sure it rotates the adjuster. A lot of times you need to bend the plate that contacts the adjuster to make sure it engages the teeth and rotates it. . Grease the threads on the adjuster.
Never grab the springs with a pair of dikes. You will leave marks that will cause the springs to break in those spots. There are two tools that make a brake job easy to do. brake spring pliers and the tool that pushes down the brake shoe hold down springs. Both tools are cheap. They make job so easy, especially flipping the springs off (see video). You can find them at garage and estate sales. I have a bunch of them I've paid about $2.00 each. I sure all the auto parts stores carry them but they won't be the quality of the ones made in the 60s and 70s. Proto made nice ones.
YouTube video showing how to use brake spring pliers. Unfortunately, this is the best video I could find (Chevy guy). I disagree with using the vise grips on the hold down springs but it does work. The tool with the black handle is a better choice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIyESaecC2s
I prefer the Ford caliper slide grease available at a Ford Dealer. The Permatex is good too. All the parts stored should have it. A tube will last you and all your gearhead bubbies that borrow it a lifetime.
When I replaced brake shoes at work I always grabbed the parking brake cables and pulled down on them to make sure they locked the drums. If the cable movement seemed excessive I'd tighten up the adjustment before letting the lowering vehicle down on the hoist.
When you have assemble your brakes its always a good idea to grab the bottom of the shoes and forcefully pivot them back and forth and pull them towards yourself. This makes sure everything is hooked in well. It also proves the shoes will be able to self energize properly.
Put a little white lithium grease or brake caliper slide grease (preferred) on the backing plates where the shoes contact them. This helps them slide and prevents the backing plates from getting worn in those spots. Without the grease the shoes will eventually wear deep grooves in the backing plates. Then the shoes can get hung up in those grooves. To save the worn backing plates I use to weld up the grooves and grind them smooth again. They will never wear out if you lube those spots
Make sure the backing plate bolts are tight. Every once in awhile I would find some loose bolts. Loose bolts can wipeout the backing plates because they try to rotate during stops. This elongates the bolts holes, shears off the bolts and cracks the backing plate.
We had so many broken brake springs in the fleet at work that when they got to be around five year's old I replaced all of them when I did a brake job. You have them off anyway and they are not very expensive. That just about put an end to broken brake springs.
The number one mistake people make is installing the shoes backwards. If you understand why the longer shoe always goes to the rear on "self energizing" brakes it will help you remember that the long shoes goes towards the rear. Because of the self energizing action the rear shoe does more work than the front shoe. So the rear shoes will wear out at the same time as the front shoes the rear shoe is "usually" thicker. There are vehicles where the shoes are the same length. If there is a thicker shoe it would go to the rear.
People that have been taught that the long shoe always goes on the rear make the mistake of installing the long shoe to the rear on Early Ford hydraulic brakes. They are the opposite, the long shoe goes to the front. Its because of the way the shoes are anchored at the bottom. More force from the rotating drum is applied to the front shoe. The front shoe is called the 'forward braking shoe' and the rear shoe is the "reversing shoe".
If the brakes have self adjusters use your thumb to push on the cable to make sure it rotates the adjuster. A lot of times you need to bend the plate that contacts the adjuster to make sure it engages the teeth and rotates it. . Grease the threads on the adjuster.
Never grab the springs with a pair of dikes. You will leave marks that will cause the springs to break in those spots. There are two tools that make a brake job easy to do. brake spring pliers and the tool that pushes down the brake shoe hold down springs. Both tools are cheap. They make job so easy, especially flipping the springs off (see video). You can find them at garage and estate sales. I have a bunch of them I've paid about $2.00 each. I sure all the auto parts stores carry them but they won't be the quality of the ones made in the 60s and 70s. Proto made nice ones.
YouTube video showing how to use brake spring pliers. Unfortunately, this is the best video I could find (Chevy guy). I disagree with using the vise grips on the hold down springs but it does work. The tool with the black handle is a better choice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIyESaecC2s
I prefer the Ford caliper slide grease available at a Ford Dealer. The Permatex is good too. All the parts stored should have it. A tube will last you and all your gearhead bubbies that borrow it a lifetime.
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19Fordy
Well-known member
Earlier Rich pointed out to me that I had incorrectly installed the E-Brake arm in relation to the brake shoe. I had installed it on the outside of the shoe instead of the inside as shown in the MT Products instructions.Today I took another look at the rear E-Brake thinking I would remove and reinstall the E-Brake arm on the inside of the shoe. However, the more I looked at it I can't really see where it would make any difference in either the brake show operation when stopping or the use of the E-Brake. It works fine as is - on the outside of the shoe. So. I left it that way. I have attached photos and would like input as to whether or not it really makes a difference if the E-Brake arm is on the inside or outside of the shoe. I know the design engineers made it that way but, I don't see the need for it being on the outside of the shoe. The brakes work fine and nothing interferes with any other brake parts. Thanks, Jim
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19Fordy
Well-known member
Thanks Branded. Appreciate your observation and input. I will remove drum and look at it again to see if there is any spring contact. I agree with you about installing it correctly to correct my error but, I was hoping it would be ok. Got to stay safe. Will have a look see tomorrow.
V8 Bob
Well-known member
19Fordy,
You are putting the strut, rear shoe and adjuster into a slight bind with the park arm on the outside of the shoe. Normally the struts and arms are "sided" L & R, so simply swapping the rear secondary shoe assemblies side for side should correct the mistake, just not sure about these Bendix copies.
Bottom line, assemble the brakes correctly, as designed, for the best and safest performance.
You are putting the strut, rear shoe and adjuster into a slight bind with the park arm on the outside of the shoe. Normally the struts and arms are "sided" L & R, so simply swapping the rear secondary shoe assemblies side for side should correct the mistake, just not sure about these Bendix copies.
Bottom line, assemble the brakes correctly, as designed, for the best and safest performance.
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Branded
Senior Member
I’m sure you have these pages but Incase you don’t
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-fem...14.522605215.1547827472-1281480359.1540836783
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-fem...14.522605215.1547827472-1281480359.1540836783
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-fem...14.522605215.1547827472-1281480359.1540836783
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-fem...14.522605215.1547827472-1281480359.1540836783
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-fem...14.522605215.1547827472-1281480359.1540836783
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-fem...14.522605215.1547827472-1281480359.1540836783
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-fem...14.522605215.1547827472-1281480359.1540836783
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-fem...14.522605215.1547827472-1281480359.1540836783
19Fordy
Well-known member
Thanks Branded and V8 Bob for the added info.
No, those instruction sheets did not come with my MT Brake kit when I bought it.
They sure are helpful. Will take photos when done. Just removed the drums again and will work on it tomorrow in daylight.I am hoping I don't have to pull the hubs even though I have the KR style tool.
No, those instruction sheets did not come with my MT Brake kit when I bought it.
They sure are helpful. Will take photos when done. Just removed the drums again and will work on it tomorrow in daylight.I am hoping I don't have to pull the hubs even though I have the KR style tool.
Flathead Fever
Well-known member
That is not going to work. Placing the arm on the front side is kicking the equalizer bar out at an angle. You can easily see it in the photo looking down at the top of the shoes. That bar transfers the forces between the two shoes. The strongest force is applied when the bar is 90 degrees to the shoe. The way it is now it will push the shoe at an angle.
Then because the arm is in the front. its now resting against the hold down spring. The arm might not be able to come back all the way now. If you also look at the bottom of the arm it could get caught on the edge of the shoe.
Replace those springs or they will break. They could ruin your drum when they do.
Then because the arm is in the front. its now resting against the hold down spring. The arm might not be able to come back all the way now. If you also look at the bottom of the arm it could get caught on the edge of the shoe.
Replace those springs or they will break. They could ruin your drum when they do.
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19Fordy
Well-known member
Thanks Flathead fever for the info. and suggestions. I did look closely at the hold down springs and they have no visible imperfections. I did install them with the recommended brake shoe pliers so as not to nick them and create a stress point.These brakes only have about 200 miles on them. If you know where I can get the springs let me know please.
Today I reinstalled the E-Arm behind the brake shoe and installed the hold down bolt and washers with a locking nut - allowing the E-Arm to move freely. The hold down spring clears the nut. I readjusted the brakes using the instruction sheet posted by Branded and brakes seem to work fine including E brake. I think MT needs to provide more detailed instructions with photos. Thanks very much to all for helping me.
Just to be super safe I'd like to get new hold down springs so if you have a source please let me know.
Wonder if auto parts store would have them? What does the ORANGE color signify?
Anyone know what springs MT Products uses for their kits? Thanks. Jim
The first 2 photos show the BEFORE. The last 4 show the AFTER. Shoes are 2 in. I did close the spring loop more after install.
Today I reinstalled the E-Arm behind the brake shoe and installed the hold down bolt and washers with a locking nut - allowing the E-Arm to move freely. The hold down spring clears the nut. I readjusted the brakes using the instruction sheet posted by Branded and brakes seem to work fine including E brake. I think MT needs to provide more detailed instructions with photos. Thanks very much to all for helping me.
Just to be super safe I'd like to get new hold down springs so if you have a source please let me know.
Wonder if auto parts store would have them? What does the ORANGE color signify?
Anyone know what springs MT Products uses for their kits? Thanks. Jim
The first 2 photos show the BEFORE. The last 4 show the AFTER. Shoes are 2 in. I did close the spring loop more after install.
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