Bench testing pop out switch

[farmputzer]

I have an original pop out w/key that I wanted to test before mounting it in my car. In the Brattons catalog they tell how to test a switch. 5 out of 6 continuity test check okay. The 6th test is with the key off , I should have continuity between the brass plunger and the fitting that screws into the distributor. I do not get continuity! Can the pop out switch be used as is or is there a way I can fix it?

 

[johnbuckley]

Originals were made so that in the OFF position the wire to the points shorted to ground as a deterent to hotwiring. Some later repros may not do so . So long as good electrical connection when turned ON I see no reason not to use yours.

 

[rotorwrench]

The Electrolock design controls the ground pathway from the breaker points to the coil so it only has to have continuity at each end when the switch is in the on or pushed in position. The off position with the button popped out should have no continuity. An internal short test can be done by testing from either terminal to the body of the housing while it is switched on. It should have no continuity from the ground circuit to the housing. This is a good bench check with the assembly on the bench being tested with a multi meter set to check resistance or continuity.

With the assembly installed to the distributor, the breaker points are in play. With breaker points open, there will be no continuity to ground with switch on. With points closed, there should be continuity to ground.

 

[Gene F]

And not grounded to the case. Meaning the wire within the armored cable needs to have good insulation. If that wire within has it's insulation melted off, the car will stop, and not restart.

An ohm meter is all you need to test a pop-out cable assembly.