Bell Housing Removal

sethkestenbaum

sethkestenbaum

Well-known member
Last month I removed the engine but left the bell housing in place. I'd now like to remove the bell housing. I've loosened the four bolts and disconnected the brake pedal link. Is there anything I have to place a stand under? Be concerned about? Does the housing just pull off or is there a trick to getting it off? Thanks
 
With the four bolts holding the bell housing to the transmission removed and the removeal of the assembly that attaches the bell hopusing to the wishbone , the bell housing should just pull away from the tramsmission with no problem.

I would put something under the transmission just because.

Pluck

Pluck
 
When I removed my engine, I took engine, bell housing and ****** all out at same time. But I would think you would have to take the wishbone loose off the bell housing and support the ****** somehow and then it should come off the ******. More experts on the Barn can give you a better idea than my experience does.
 
now is the time to replace the throw out bearing and make sure the clutch fork shaft bushings, and pedal bushings //// both shafts are not worn...also check the fingers on the fork
 
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That reminds me . disconnect the spring that connects to the throw out bearing and slip the throw out bearing forward and off. now, the bell housing should come off.
 
Just take the two nuts off and the wishbone will drop down.

Bob
 

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Thanks Bob.....and regarding the throwout bearing... I've disconnected the spring that holds it back but the bearing doesn't want to pop off as I was hoping it would. Thoughts?

As always, thanks for all the help!
 
I am planning to support the ****** with a bunch of 6x6s stacked up under it. I may rig up some type of additional support such as a 2x4 on the top with some strapping to hold things up (I think I saw Tom W post something like this the other month).
 
Yes, the 2 x 4 and 1" ratchet strap works fine. I later made the A frame, and it works great. I like the 2 x 4 and strap better than the floor jack, which I used years ago.
 

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sethkestenbaum said:
Thanks Bob.....and regarding the throwout bearing... I've disconnected the spring that holds it back but the bearing doesn't want to pop off as I was hoping it would. Thoughts?

As always, thanks for all the help!
Click to expand...

After the spring is removed the throw out bearing and hub will slide foward and off . The bearing is driven on and off the hub. I usually use a drift punch and hammer and drive the bearing off .
 
Perfect time to pull the transmission as well. Inspect the U-Joint and pack it with fresh grease. Flush out your transmission, look for debris, inspect the gears/bearings and finish it off with fresh oil. A little clean up, maybe some paint.

We all know how these things can snowball, but how often do you have the motor out!

Good luck,

Dan
 
FWIW here is how I held up my transmission recently when I pulled an engine.
 

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I agree with Wello in post # 13 . I would take it a step farther. I wojld replace all of the bearings plus the cluster and reverse idler gear shafts. The diamond gears will usually last a lifetime . Worn bearings and bearing shafts allow the gears to drop out of alignment and transmission failure follows , usually with a busted housing. Exploded diagrams of the transmission can be seen in both Brattons and Snyders catalog. The model A transmission is simple enough that most anybody could disassemble and reassemble it . Besides a 1/2 inch wrench a socket and ratchet, just about the only other tools needed is a drift punch and hammer. I use a 100 watt light bulb for a bearing heater to expand the bearing on the input shaft and thats about it.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
... The model A transmission is simple enough that most anybody could disassemble and reassemble it...
Click to expand...
Although I don't remember a lot about it, my Dad assures me that I took apart and re-assembled (with some new parts) a Model A transmission when I was 15 or 16. I drove the car for several years after that all over Arizona.
 
Carl, I did the same . Back then I didn't have parts catalogs with exploded diagrams . After having a few transmissions fail I had parts. I really had nothing to lose and would pick the best parts and put another transmission together. In a short time I could tell what gears were likely to jump out of gear . There is a certain feel between high gear and the input shaft that tells the story . Now if I've got a transmission that doesn't jump out of any gears , I just go through it, replace bearings ,cluster and reverse idler shafts and its good for a lifetime . Model A transmissions are probably the most simple transmission ever
 
Ok, quick update.... I've just cut a 2x4 and have some old rock climbing rope I am going to use to support the transmission (which has been "hanging free" since I removed the engine). The rope can handle 3,000 LBS, so I am not too worried about it supporting the weight. This said, it has some flex, which I thought wouldn't be such a bad thing. The support system will look like the one in BudP's post. I am going to rig up the support (nice and tight) before I disconnecting the wishbone. I am NOT removing the actual transmission right now, but just the bell housing. I will eventually remove the transmission to clean it up/out and such prior to reassembly.

Do I need to support the wishbone or can I just let it gently drop?
 
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