Battery issue

D

DKnapp

Well-known member
My new six volt battery does not spin my "B" motor with Miller Overhead. Should I try an 8 volt battery?? Any issues with 8 volt like I would have with a 12 volt?

Might be able to get field coils in starter changed to 12 volt, but too many other issues with 12 volt, like alternator, coil, amp meter, lights, distributor? Any suggestions?
 
Connections,voltage drop,low capacity battery
rusty lock washer
dirty armature commutator
crank it over without spark plugs for 15-30 seconds and feel all the connections for heat.
what size wire for battery cables.
Are the cables the factory made ones with steel terminal ends?they get rusty internally making bad connections—
Just because the battery is new doesn’t mean it is good or makes enough amperage
check voltage drop
how thick is the paint between the starter and the entire electrical path both ground side and hot side
A couple times when the clutch was stuck on my car I would start it in gear or would use the starter to “drive” the car out of the small garage— the 12 year old Optima battery moved the car 50 feet several times for me at a cranking speed that was fast enough to start the car.
How easy does it hand crank,is the engine binding up internally?
 
What is the Compression Ratio of that head?

I think a 6 volt starter and battery should be able to handle it.
 
My car was stock and started fine for several years, then wouldn't. It turned out that the cable to the starter was smaller in diameter than 5 AWG! A nice heavy cable from Tractor Supply fixed that!
 
When I had my '28 Roadster the P.O. had installed 8 volt battery. I had constant problems burning out lamps until I replaced with 6 volt battery. :(
 
New battery could be bad , take it back and have it load tested ! If it was cranking fine with the old battery , is the new battery the same CCA as the old ?

My A came with a 8 volt battery and ac delco generator , I was push starting it a lot because of a under charged battery . How does a teenager charge a 8 volt battery with a 6-12 charger ? Well 3/4 of the battery with the charger on 6 volts then the next night the last cell and two full charged cells . After that I was pushing it a lot less , didn’t seam very hard on the light bulbs !!!! Maybe because good old made in American ??
 
Last edited:
I am in the same mind as everyone else that the 6 volt battery should work fine. And that the battery, cables, connections, starter switch, and starter motor should be checked before going to an 8 volt battery. Your multimeter, in the volt setting, is your friend for finding voltage drops. Start at the battery and then branch out to the connections and cables. Then the starter switch and starter motor. This is a detective exercise. Do you have the ground connection from the battery directly to the engine via a transmission bolt?

I bought a 6 volt battery from a national chain that was 4 volts and would not come up when I tried charging it. I got my money back and bought another one from a different store. in any case, charge the battery after you put it in the car with a battery maintainer/charger. They loose voltage while sitting in the store.
 
As a test bring the grd from the battery directly to the engine. Rhis made a huge difference on my car years ago
 
The 6-volt systems turned Ford and Lincoln engines clear up to 1956. Some may have had more amp hour capability but it was still low voltage. Nice new 2 gauge or larger power cables can help turn any old Ford banger no matter what the compression ratio is.
 
DKnapp said:
Any issues with 8 volt like I would have with a 12 volt?

Might be able to get field coils in starter changed to 12 volt, but too many other issues with 12 volt, like alternator, coil, amp meter, lights, distributor? Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I wonder what issues with 12 volts you are referring to. My cars are drivers and are all 12 volts and I am very pleased I changed them. Some 6 volt items like, ignition coil, flasher can and even globes (bulbs) can be a challenge to find, especially in country areas.
I realise some don't like the look of an alternator but that can be handled by using one of those alternators built into a generator housing - no issue. Coil - much easier to find a 12 volt one - no issue. Amp Meter! Simply reverse the connections at the back of it (if you are going -ve earth)) - no issue. Lights, change the globes (bulbs) - no issue. Distributor. No changes necessary - no issue.
The only things I do is reconfigure the starter field windings and convert the horn to 12 volts. There is plenty of information on this forum on how to do those things. They are easy - no issue!
Please don't look for problems where there are none.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top