battery disconnect switch
- Thread starter coolcoupe
- Start date
tubman
Well-known member
This is assuming your car is still 6 volts, positive ground.
1. The 12 volt switch, even though it probably would work, is not even rated for your car, so why even consider it? Remember, 6 volt system require heavier components because of the greater amperage carried. Equivalent systems carry twice the amps as 12 volt systems.
2. I would put it on the negative (hot) side. That way all power to the car is cut off. Put it on the ground (positive), and everything still has power going to it.
3. 0 is OK, 00 is better.
1. The 12 volt switch, even though it probably would work, is not even rated for your car, so why even consider it? Remember, 6 volt system require heavier components because of the greater amperage carried. Equivalent systems carry twice the amps as 12 volt systems.
2. I would put it on the negative (hot) side. That way all power to the car is cut off. Put it on the ground (positive), and everything still has power going to it.
3. 0 is OK, 00 is better.
Kube
Super Moderator
Great advice indeed.
I would add, do NOT use one of those cheapy things that go directly on the terminal.
Kube
Super Moderator
The negative side is the "hot" side on a positive ground system.
If you disconnect that side, ALL power stops right at that point.
Tubman is sharp with this sparky stuff
To be clear, you need not do anything to the ground side cable.
paul2748
Well-known member
Some controversy on what pole to put a disconnect on. Most advise to put it on the ground side (in your case the positive if an 6V car). Without a ground, as you may know, nothing electrical will work.
That said, I have always worked with 12V negative ground cars so maybe a 6V positive ground car may be different.
That said, I have always worked with 12V negative ground cars so maybe a 6V positive ground car may be different.
Kube
Super Moderator
Think of your home... if wired properly, the lamp switches interrupt the "hot side". If the common side is interrupted, there can still be feed through. Much safer to interrupt the power supply.
A car is not much different, ya want to interrupt the "hot side". In the case of a stock '47 Ford, the "hot side" is the negative post.
I've never been a fan of those things. They quite often result in problems down the road a few years with bad connections in an un necessary gizmo. Just pull off the battery cable. If its clean as it should be, its an easy thing to deal with.
Those things are popular with the model A crowd as that wire harness is hot all the time. Your 47 has a fuse , no? Sorry, I am not familiar with post war stuff
Those things are popular with the model A crowd as that wire harness is hot all the time. Your 47 has a fuse , no? Sorry, I am not familiar with post war stuff
I used a marine grade Cole-Hersee Heavy Duty disconnect switch. Which meant its all brass. It fit neatly in one of the existing holes of the battery support brace. Which meant it’s a short run to the solenoid and the extra cable hides nicely appearing to be the same cable.
No holes needed to drill. Nice solid feel switch. Works much better than wearing out your battery terminals. Quicker and safer too.
No holes needed to drill. Nice solid feel switch. Works much better than wearing out your battery terminals. Quicker and safer too.
tubman
Well-known member
I've had one of those "on-terminal" screw knob switches on my Corvette for at least the last 20 years with zero problems. I turn it on once a year and off once a year. Each time I cycle it, I take it apart and make sure it is nice and clean with no incipient corrosion. I guess even crap works if you take care of it. I did make sure that the one I had was all brass, however.
I have a Cole Hersee 2484-16-BXbBattery master disconnect switch mounted on my ;32 seat riser. Simple to access and I always shut it off with power shutdown.
I use the same and also located in the seat riser. Works great.
Gene1949
Well-known member
30Murray
Senior Member
You need to remember that if either side of the battery is disconnected you have a completely dead circuit. In that case it doesn't really matter which side the switch is on. What is possibly more important is where your switch is located and if the terminals are exposed to accidentally being touched by a tool or something. If it's on the ground side, you can't short it out. If that switch on the seat riser is on the hot side, one of those terminals is always hot and can be easily shorted to the body ground. I have one located just like this but put it on the ground cable. That's much safer in my opinion.
glennpm
Well-known member
I agree, mine is on the 12V negative ground side.
coolcoupe
Well-known member
My 47 is 6volt positive ground system. So I hook one cable from the positive post (ground) to the switch and one cable from the switch to ground ( firewall)
Is that the right way.
Don T
Senior Member
This is a pic of a switch I had on my 04 Dodge pickup, the culprit (or one of them) that is guilty of being a failure. I use the truck very little and suspect I have a parasitic drain (which I cant find) as well as the normal draw these trucks take when parked. The clamping area would constantly corrode and require filing it clean and flat to keep it working. On a side note, if it was working enough to start the truck it did not mean the truck would run well. It would sputter, cough and did not like throttle inputs at all. It took me a while to figure this one out. The second pic shows part of the switch body where the bolt makes contact to close the switch; I put bluing in the contact area to indicate how actual little contact area there is in the switch, amazing the truck would start at -30C. Buy a good switch.
