basic question pulling a 34 rear

1Tudoor

1Tudoor

Senior Member
I tried to retrieve this info but @ 79 , I may not have time to read all of the related searches .
To pull the rear in my 34 for trans access & I have read here some folks have done it w/o a spring spreader & some with .
What is the process or deciding factor to do it w/o the spreader (which I don't have) ?
When much younger , I had many flatheads but only remember pulling a rear in a 40 to install a Columbia 2 speed but that was an open shaft (w/ a chev 265).
Something is making a nasty noise in the 34 drive train but not sure yet what ? The orig engine is totally rebuilt & purrs so it's not that .


Thanks
Bob
 
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If you drop the spring with the axel,you do not need a spreader but it is much heavier. You will also need to be aware there is a potentially dangerous amount of energy in the spring secured only by the center bolt. You will want to use something to make it safe for handling. Might be better to determine the source of the noise before disassembly, if possible.
 
I don’t have a spring spreader either. When I needed to pull my rear-end to get the ****** out I left the spring on the rear-end and dropped it as a unit by using a floor jack to lower it and pull it back after taking off the u-bolts that attach the spring to the frame. I didn’t want any extra danger by messing with removing the spring from the rear unit.
 
Remove it with the spring attached clap the spring with at least four heavy G clamps ,replace the centre bolt with a longer one or a length of threaded rod about 10". With the threaded rod backed of 2" start loosing the clamps ,you can tie the springs with wire while you fit the rod for added safety if you like ,the last leaf can be removed using a G clamp (wired on ) on the shackle ,there's not much tension on it ,Ted
 
FlatheadTed said:
Remove it with the spring attached clap the spring with at least four heavy G clamps ,replace the centre bolt with a longer one or a length of threaded rod about 10". With the threaded rod backed of 2" start loosing the clamps ,you can tie the springs with wire while you fit the rod for added safety if you like ,the last leaf can be removed using a G clamp (wired on ) on the shackle ,there's not much tension on it ,Ted
Click to expand...



Thank you Ted
I'm thinking your description relates to accessing the spring leaves ?
I'm only wanting to pull the transmission .


Bob
 
Easiest and safest way way is to remove the U bolt nuts and drop the entire rear with the spring attached. Also makes it easier to reinstall. Remove the wheels first so you have clearance to roll rear back. "Block" the front wheels and use jack stands.
 
There is no need to remove the spring from the rear end assembly, unless you need to disassemble the complete rear. However, I am always concerned about having just one bolt holding that spring pack together while I am working nearby. To help eliminate this concern, I usually wrap a length of chain around the spring, or attach several "C" clamps in place on the spring.
 
Thanks guys , Yes JM , if I do this , I was planning on clamping spring when down .
BTW , my first car was a 35 5 window , & working on a golf course after school that first drive when it became dark , I didn't know how to turn on the lights ? Slight panic till I stumbled on the switch !


Another question , what can I wrap the springs with to get rid of squeaks & rust . Seems I remember yrs ago of people doing this ? Like a heavy cheese cloth soaked in oil safety wired on ?
 
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disassemble the spring set clean each leave,sand any grooves,reassemble with grease and graphite powder between each leave when assembled wrap it in denso tape,
Lawrie
 
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