Barn find RPU

4tford

4tford

Well-known member
Hi guys, I normally spend my time on the EV8 site but may be spending a lot more time over here. I heard about this RPU a couple of weeks ago. I was allowed to view it a couple of days ago. A quick negotiation was done and I am now the new owner. I know nothing about it and will appreciate any help you can give. Obvious questions are what year is it and from the first pics what is missing. Wheels seem to have disappeared and I will need to find some to make it easier to get home. What size should they be. Wood spoke or wire?? I would like to get it going as is and prefer not to rod it. Thanks Bill









 
Nice find!

Its the Improved Ford, '26-'27 Touring car.

The date can be best determined by the motor number. Features of the body indicate a mid year '26. Door top edge has the zinc molding pieces for the door curtain rod. And the headlamp bar is later year add. The Improved Car came out in Aug of 1925, and by late Dec of 1925 the frame rail top, under the floorboards would have a matching number to the engine motor stamp.

The rear seat has been removed an a wood box added, this was done lots in later life of touring cars.

Wood wheels were std on open cars. Wires will cause you to look for wire wheel hubs and wire wheels. Wood wheels will come with the hubs in the wood wheel, 21" split rim balloon tires would be correct.

Missing the manifolds, carb, and coils for the coil box on the cyl head. The horn is aftermarket. But has lots of parts there for rebuild!
 
The rear spring is 1918/earlier. The distributor "cap" at the right rear on the dirt is Model A and will not work as intended on the "T". The rear fenders were cobbled from the touring to fit the home-built box.
The next question on this forum could be, "What do I need to make this a reasonable '27 Model T RPU restoration?"
You have the basics here to pursue a nice project. Many of us have started with much less!
 
The BIG question here is do you want a total restoration, or something to have fun in? The two RARELY go hand in hand. Get some wheels and rubber on it and make it run to see if its even something that you like.
PS... always ask riders if theyve had a tetanus shot recently. Maybe make a wood sign for the side that says "getcher free tetnis shots here" and do a beverly hillbillies truck.
You can have a blast or always worry what the judges will think, and, unfortunately, its about 10K away from judging. My point; Have fun with it! BTW... a complete "nice" (safety glass) 26 windshield with frames and stanchions is gonna ste you back a bit. ws

From this:

n4e8m.jpg


To this in 2 years and about 3-4K

abrwhh.jpg
 
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Well if I want to go fast I have my 40 mordor and a 2013 Dodge Ram. Would pretty much like to just clean it up, get it running and have fun with it. Did find already 4 good wheels with good rubber so the rolling part is easy. Need to get it home to do more.
 
Looks like a Canadian tail light. Check the serial numbers on the block, and stamped on the frame rail, just below where the passenger's feet would be. If they begin with the letter "C", the car is Canadian.
Gene
 
Looks fun. Just check it over & fit manifolds & piping. Did anyone mention the thrust washers? If the diff' has muckmetal ones change them to bronze before you drive very far. If the diff' oil is grey/crunchy but not metallic that is a pretty sure sign they're muckmetal.
 
all the comments and advice are most welcome and will be checked into when I get it home. I have made contact with a local T guy who is lending me a set of wheels to get it home. He has also offered to use his truck and trailer. We will go out on Sunday early, put it together and bring it home. Any parts missing he will most likely have as spares. I tried the hand crank and it turns quite free. (much easier than my flatheads) We found the hood and front bumpers but will need the manifold, carb, coils etc. Most likely a lot more.
 
Now have it home in the garage. Certainly needs wheels but first I would like to get it running. Turning the hand crank and there is definitely compression. It was suggested I do all the valves first. Is that necessary or should I go ahead and try it. It needs both manifolds, carb, battery, coil and I am sure a few more things. Serial # on both frame and block match. #C648759 Looks like April 1926
 
Yachtsmanbill is close with his estimate of '$10K away from judging..." Having recently restored a 1919 Touring from a unit starting off quite a bit better off than yours is, I spent $15K, and tried to find eBay deals and used stuff as much as I could.

You are closer to $15K restoration costs, I would say to return it to its former splendour. Getting it running, maybe $3K or 4K. Give or take.
 
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