Barn find 1931 SW 160-B

Just slam the oil pan upside down onto the grass to knock out the dipper tray. After cleaning the tray and pan, hold each up to the light to check for pin holes. I bought a nice looking oil pan at a swap meet that still had 2 quarts of oil in it. I have no idea why someone would leave oil in the pan, but after I cleaned it, the oil pan had 4 pin holes through the bottom.

Also, while the pan is off is a good time to check clearances. At the very least grab each connecting rod and see if you can feel any radial play. They will have some side play. Also look for any babbit squishing out the sides of the bearing caps. The center main is usually the first to go.
 
When you open the valve chamber, spray some cleaner down each of the bearing lube holes. if the tube is open the cleaner will run out abound the crank.
 
I'm new to the Ford Barn, been into Model A's for over 30 years and you have a great find. We have had many great years with our 31 S/W Town Sedan. Building a touring motor for it as we speak. Bratton's has a "Oil Pump Holder Tool" for dropping the oil pan. It's cheap and nice to have in your tool box if another club member has to work on their car on a tour (part number: #09895).
 
When you open the valve chamber, spray some cleaner down each of the bearing lube holes. if the tube is open the cleaner will run out abound the crank.

That's what I did, and I poked a pipe cleaner up and down at the same time. You can feel when the pipe cleaner hits the crankshaft, so don't force it and scratch the crank. Last step is to squirt oil down each tube.:)
 
Burner are you a member of the Tulsa or Sooner Model A Club? If not you will find a wealth of talent and resources to help with your find.
 
One more thing to check while you are at it. Is there fuel in the tank? If not-or even if there is-drain it. Pull the drain on/off valve out or the fuel line and blow compressed air into the tank. Blow it all around to get any rust, stones, crap out of it. then flush it with acetone. Reconnect all lines after they to have been checked. You should not have to many rust problems with the carb after that. Nice find and welcome to the barn.

Mike
 
Washed the engine and ****** today, going to stop til after Christmas, then it;s full speed ahead.
 

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I am looking to connect with a club but Tulsa and OKC are a little far for me, I live outside of Shawnee, out in the woods, and I can't stand the big city's. Don't know which club would be best for me, but would love to be in one.
 
I would inspect the oil pump also. You want a clean, functioning oil pump.
Someone took care of the car on their watch. Take your time, and be systomatic.
Start a journal from day one. Anything you learn, or do to the car should go in it.
Diagrams of assemblies, parts and sources.
Bratton's and snyders catalogs both have great diagrams of these assemblies.
And have a great xmas.
Bob

Bob
 
Late 31 s/w indented firewall with fold down arm rest ?? I have the same car but arm rest are on both sides of rear seat . No fold down arm rest in center of seat.
 
The parts suppliers have a oil pump retainer for about $6.00. Snyder's is on page 126 of the 2014 catalogue. I haven't used one yet, but I do have it on my wishlist.
 
Burner31,
Before you take down the oil pan, try this:
>Drain the oil;
>Stick your index finger up through the oil drain hole and feel for sludge. The drain plug should be full of sludge if the oil pan is to;
>Bend up a coat hanger so you can insert through the drain hole and scoop out some sludge if there is any.
 
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