Banjo to Torque Tube Oil Leak Solution

This is not to mean I can't recognize clever innovation . On a different note venting a rear end works better if the vent is on top of one of the axle housings out away from the gear . { not my idea } Look at your pickup's rear end . Venting on or next to the banjo won't work well as the diff assy throws LOTS of fluid around there . For it to work there you would need to get innovative again on a baffle setup . Probably not a huge deal but if it is totally useless why do new vehicles still have vents ? David J
David J said:
DavidG you are right - I only do stock on my old fords & this definately doesn't apply to them . My mistake was in thinking this site was for stock cars . :D David J
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David J said:
....venting on or next to the banjo won't work well as the diff assy throws LOTS of fluid around ....
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This is true. We tried porting the tube for the breather through a couple of different bell-to-banjo bolt locations, and it pumped oil out the breather.
 
Detonator thanks for your stylish solution. I have been topping up my diff oil for years before I go any distance in my 32 and then leaving a horrible oil slick under the middle of the car when I arrive. I have tried several baffle ideas including a thin aluminium one sandwiched between banjo & housing, breathers, and even made a 3/4" hole about 6" along with tube fitting welded on as a mini sump with a return line to lower banjo side bolt hole. All a waste of time. I decided I would re-mount the engine higher and was about to perform the surgery. I had the engine out and cut lines carefully marked out on the perfect K member to slide the middle section up an inch or so and re-weld. I had my face mask on, grinder with cutting disc in my hand but just could not bring myself to do it to my faithful old friend. Anyway my latest plan was pretty much what you have come up with except had not thought of the O-rings (f...ing brilliant) I was planning to get someone with a long lathe to set up and do a cleanup bore for a little way up the end of the tube, (not too much meat there though) and press fit a seal holder piece. I think your idea has nailed it though - I'm whipping my diff out next weekend and making one. Many thanks - Tim
 
This a copy/paste of an earlier post I made in response to a similar thread.
I have the same problem with a 32 Tudor, it has a pretty good "rubber rake" . We forgot to replace the seal inside the torque tube (1933 rear w/shortened drive shaft) when we redid the rear. The gear oil runs down the tube and leaks out where everything comes together at the trans. On another car I have with the same exact "rubber rake"..(same front axle, springs and tires) there is no leaking of any consequence. On that rear we did replace the seal. I plan on replacing the seal later this year, I think that will solve the leaking.
UPDATE
After using both cars this past season (2014) I have not replaced the seal yet sooo...I still have the same situation ....The one without the original torque tube seal still leaks and the one I put a new proper seal in doesn't.
 
Phil,
I have a 40 that the rear sits 4" higher than the front and have the same problem; a small amount of gear oil pools up in the U-joint housing at the trans. The trans is out at the moment for a rebuild and I am debating replacement of the seal and center bearing. What level of difficulty did you experience doing that? OBTW, I went to the Seabright website last night and sent an email to them about the seal that started this whole thread and got an "undeliverable" message in return. I can only assume they are no longer in business. Thanks,

Rich
 
Rich/Alabama, to change the seal the easiest thing to do is remove the torque tube. If your trans is out it may not be that hard to get the tube off. I believe the later rears used the same seal. The original seal in question on a 32 Ford sits just inside the torque tube ....right behind the speedo parts. I think it's the same seal that goes in each axle housing. Over time the seals wear and the gear lube will run out. it's not a big deal for the axle housings especially if the banjo is not completely full with lube, the taper of the housing helps the lube run back towards the center. But when you have pretty good "rubber rake" it becomes a problem in the front. If you look under the car and the torque tube is pitched down toward the front of the car the lube will "pump out" off the ring gear and travel down the tube. It WILL leak out everywhere! Replacing the seal on a 32 with a uncut center crossmember is a BFJ. Probably gonna do it this year. Can't stand the mess in the shop anymore.
 
32phil; I have the engine and trans out and access is not a problem so I think I'll change the seal. 32Dude; I looked their website and the seal setup they sell but with that 1/8" thick seal housing I'm going to try to solve the problem another way first. surfgeezer; I'll give it another try because I like that collar & seal they made, just a little concerned about cost and fitment. Ill let everyone know how it turns out. Thanks to all and Merry Christmas,

Rich
 
Well guys, just got a reply from Dave at Seabright Hot Rods and they no longer make the torque tube oil seal. I have a Tardel drain-back tube and there is the Bruce's solution too. I'll probably do one of those two but haven't decided which route to take yet in addition to changing the stock seal. Merry Christmas to everyone,

Rich
 
Tim Ayers said:
Certainly can appreciate all of the work you've put into this and engineering and machining. Love to see folks how think through a problem and fix it.

You may want to look at the baffle Vern Tardell sells. It's designed to slide into a torque tube to remedy this "problem" as well. His sells for $65 (I think). Since his is a slip-in unit and fits all torque tubes, it may be something to thing before you try to produce these on a larger scale.

Certainly take pride in coming up with a solution for your's and your buddy's car. Bravo.
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I have this problem but Vern Tardel doesn't stock them anymore so i am struggling to find one or the spec of one so I could fabricate. Any information would be appreciated.
 
Pinion seal

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I installed Bruce's Seal in 2017. Still works fine. The metal flange on his seal is only about 1/16 in. thick and fit with no problems. I did first loosen all the wishbone bolts to get some "play". Don't forget to install a breather in the rear axle tube. You can carefully slide Bruce's seal over the rivet in the torque tube coupler if you first wrap the coupler with Saran wrap and a few drops of oil. Breather is home made.
 

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Columbia axle housings after the war had a vent on the top of the housing. I too have one of Bruces seals and it works great the seal rides on the OD of the coupler. Oil coming through the coupler splines is not a problem. I believe the vent is a very good idea!
 
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