Banjo oil recommendation

The OEM recommends 140W for warmer climates and 90W for colder climates. Modern gear oil it’s multi weight. I’ve been using 85w-140W for many years with no issues. I also use 75w-90W in my transmission and it seams to shift better on cold days.




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I use Stalube GL-140 in my 40 differential and transmission. It's on the shelf at O'Reilly's for $19.99 which is a great price considering other stores get $46. Buy 2 gallons as I am sure the price will be going up with inflation the way it is today. I used to use 600W gear oil from BOB DRAKE but changed after reading this:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73472
https://bobdrake.com/products/unive...W_n0LDXC_YWuQdT7KZA77s7yfFWRn4bUaArb9EALw_wcB.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...ear-oil---140w/587d6374459f?q=gear+oil+-+140w
Here's some good info.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/question-proper-gear-oil-for-banjo-rearend.133327/

Some folks might use GL-5 in the banjo but it has additives that corrode brass. That's why I use GL-140 in both diff and transmission. Easy to remember. Read this: https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=219484&showall=1

Make a little tag and JB Weld it on your rear end and transmission as a reminder. Also make a tag for the gear ratio. For instance 9/34 for 3:78. Very unobtrusive and helpful. Make a little tag for your steering box also and secure it using a wire tie. Hope this info. helps.
 

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I am curious as to what brass is in a standard banjo rear end that would be affected by GL-5? Question to both alanwoodieman and 19Fordy? I have Columbias and know there is only 1 thin washer like part that is brass in there.
I know that is why you don't put GL-5 in a gearbox with brass synchro rings.
I have been using Redline products (GL-4 MT for trans, GL-5 for differentials) with no problems.
 
Cornhead grease #0, available at any color implement dealer, if corn is grown in the area (psst it doesn't have to say John Deere) or cotton picker spindle grease #00., cheap at tractor supply.
 
deuce roadster; I don't think there are any brass parts inside a normal 1940 banjo.
I don't know about Columbia rear components so can't comment on that. I just figure its safe to use GL-4 in both.
 
I have moderately cold winters but like others here, I use GL-140 year round. I also use same in my BW overdrive unit. In transmission I use the lower viscosity 90 to improve shifting. I buy my stuff at Amazon and get free shipping and good prices.

Steering Box Lubricant: Based on older posts on this forum, have good results (less leaking) with "Penrite" Steering Box Lube 500ML (was 29.55) from Restoration Supply, Escondido CA (800) 306-7008; RestorationStuff.com ............. hope they are still in business.
 
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True 19Fordy, will work in both. I believe the GL-5 has more extreme pressure additives then the GL-4. Probably the additive that eats brass. Thanks for the clarification.
 
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Yes the Columbia has brass parts and the reason I use GL-4 and like 19Fordy, bought it at a good price from O'Reilley's.


476113
 
Glennpm, I only saw 1 brass part in each of my Columbias. Was a thin brass disk with 3 oblong slots. Were there others? I have 1940 units. I use the GL-5 in my 3 non Columbia Fords- 33 phaeton, 32 roadster and 32 5w.
 
Glenn, Thanks, I had forgotten about those behind the spiders. The one I did remember however kept me from using the GL-5 in them. I only use it in my standard banjos.
 
mostly GL4 or below is because most people only need to keep up with one bottle of trans/rear lube--if you made a mistake and put GL5 in your columbia what would this small mistake cost you?
 
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