banjo differential

R

RAYSSUPERDELUX

Member
Hi Gents-

Is there anyone in Michigan who can help me assemble my '48 banjo
differential? I have to pull the axle housings to install bearing sleeves-

Thanks,

R. Sullivan
 
I have met quite a few V-8er's out there in Michigan who would probably welcome the chance to give you a hand, but you may want to narrow down your location there in Michigan a bit to find someone close enough to jump in there and help.
 
RAYSSUPERDELUX said:
Hi Gents-

Is there anyone in Michigan who can help me assemble my '48 banjo
differential? I have to pull the axle housings to install bearing sleeves-

Thanks,

R. Sullivan
Click to expand...
Ray, The housings will have to be cut down on a lathe to accommodate the sleeves, which are then pressed on. I'm sure you know that already, but just to put it in perspective, the disassembly on a morning, the reassembly an afternoon. It's a simple job, can be done easily with few tools and basic knowledge. You are right, though, it does require a second set of hands when it comes to determining backlash. A hint on that: Buy a second set of gaskets, one set to modify for quick trial assembly, and a pristine set for final assembly. Glad to help if I was near you!
 
Thanks for the tips. I'm located near Traverse City Mi. and I can bring
this thing anywhere in the area for final assembly with correct backlash.

Getting inside the banjo for more repair and replacing might be a good
idea too-

Thanks,

Ray Sullivan
 
You're way far from me, but if I were you I'd replace all the bearings, races and seals while you're in there, that way you know you've got a rock-solid rear-end for years to come.
 
When you disassemble the housings from the center banjo save all the gaskets and label them L and R. This can save some time later. Have you found someone or someplace to do the machine work?
 
I just rebuilt my banjo rear. I did quite bit of research before i did it, and I only did it myself because I couldn't find any one close to do it for me. What I saw in my looking was if you're doing something like repairing a leaking gasket just measure gasket pieces thickness and reassemble using gaskets of those thicknesses. The rebuild took me by myself about 14 hours and I cant tell you how many times it was together and apart setting back lash. Gears for mine was from Speedway (500$), everything else was in a kit from Mac's I believe, another $400.

NOTE -- the 14 hours was removal from the car to reinstalled.
 
Should you find yourself having to do this assembly on your own, I have a description of how to do the assembly with the axle in a vertical position. When I did my avatar's rear about 8 years ago, it was quite helpful and it has held together for many a long mile trip at speed. And, I had no prior experience at all with doing one .... you can do it, I am sure if I did it .....

If you are interested, PM me your email address I will send it to you ....
 
If your mechanically minded you can do it.. If your capable of removing it you should be ok to give it a go. I was lucky when I did mine . Firstly that Lawrie came past on his way to the Nationals and gave me some very helpful tips, I have an engineers vice so I can hold it and spin it whichever way.. And mostly every time I did something it was once phew!. Getting the seals in can be a bear , cleaning all the old crap out isn't easy.. If you don't have a big press you may have to take it past a shop that has one a few times.. I think if I did another I could almost do all of it by feel.
 

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I asked about condition...if the rear is good aside from the wheel bearings, all you need to do is measure the thickness of the banjo gaskets and replicate on reassemble. You will likely find the standard .010's, perhaps measuring very slightly less from compression. Those gaskets control the only adjustments you are disturbing with a partial teardown.
 
Photo below is in Cleveland, OH Above post by Bruce is right on, this is why you save the gaskets and mark them left or right.
 

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Terry and Bruce-

I think reassembly with new gaskets of the correct original size is the easiest way
out of this- the lathe required will need 18" throw clearance to accommodate the
'48 spring perches-
 
The original gears and bearings are quite durable, and if the thing hasn't been run out of lubricant or otherwise abused over the years...no weird howling, no clunking, no heaps of iron filings at the bottom...there really isn't any reason to mess with it. With nothing but the axle housings removed, those side gaskets are the only adjustment point disturbed.
Also...don't tap the bolt holes...those are a tight class of thread fit, and a common tap will turn them into leaks.
 
"don't tap the bolt holes...those are a tight class of thread fit, and a common tap will turn them into leaks. " I was aware of this, I did run a tap for the first few turns ONLY . With some non hardening sealant no problems at all. So don't go overboard...
 
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