banjo bolts.

P

pistonbroke

Well-known member
Hi all. Just putting my 41 pickup rear axle housing back together after fixing the bearing surface and cleaning and painting. I have the correct gasket and after I press the shackle bushing and pin assembly in it I will be in the assembly phase. My question is is there a sequence or specific torque for tightening the banjo to axle housing bolts ? The last time I did this I tightened with a end wrench and called it good and it worked fine but now in this day of instant knowledge? Thanks, Tim
 
I don't think there is a specific order but it would make sense to go from side to side and take a couple of stages to reach torque.

I'd guess that about 35 lb ft is plenty.

In other words what you did last time is plenty good enough.

I might add that there are no washers or spring or star washers. The shanks of the bolts are supposed to be a close fit in the hole.
 
I always wondered if some copper washers under the bolt heads, like used on modern 9" Fords, would be wise, or even acceptable. It would help to prevent lube seepage, but still be retorqueable if needed.
 
alchemy said:
I always wondered if some copper washers under the bolt heads, like used on modern 9" Fords, would be wise, or even acceptable. It would help to prevent lube seepage, but still be retorqueable if needed.
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No washers, but do use thread sealer. And as nobody else has mentioned it yet, DO NOT chase the threads. These bolts are intentionally a tight fit in order to prevent fluid seepage. Mart’s advise on side to side is good advise also.
 
I found out a little late but on one of my next rearend builds there is a narrow cavity on the inside lip of the axle housing by the bolt holes. Fill that narrow groove with a sealer then install your gaskets and slide together and start your fasteners. Never have had a leak again.
 
I'll tell a little secret. I always use one of the rear bolts, just under halfway up, as a fill for rearend lube. Remove that bolt and see if a little more lube is needed. Those pointy spouts on the bottles fit just perfect in the hole. Maybe I could paint that bolt a different color if I put sealant on all the other bolts.
 
SSOS group has a breather bolt for banjo rear diffs. Custom new part. Modern diffs have breathers. Newc
 
Newc said:
SSOS group has a breather bolt for banjo rear diffs. Custom new part. Modern diffs have breathers. Newc
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That's because modern rear axles need a breather, so do closed drive converted banjos.
Original breathed up the torque tube, negating the need for an additional breather.
Martin.
 
little howard said:
SSOS ??, contact info, etc, please,
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Man, this "SSOS Group" has some really creative & diverse pieces. Click the link BELOW!

Coop


https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=3577A+Breather+Bolt&form=IRIBIP&first=1&tsc=ImageHoverTitle


uZd_U-9wHaHa?w=205&h=204&c=7&r=0&o=5&dpr=1.1&pid=1.jpg
 
SSOS 'Secret Society of Speed' A 30 yr group dedicated to Ford 4cyl engines and reproduction speed parts. . Manage/owner - Charlie Yapp in Ohio. Been a member for 29 yrs. Newc
 
alchemy said:
I'll tell a little secret. I always use one of the rear bolts, just under halfway up, as a fill for rearend lube. Remove that bolt and see if a little more lube is needed. Those pointy spouts on the bottles fit just perfect in the hole. Maybe I could paint that bolt a different color if I put sealant on all the other bolts.
Click to expand...

Why not just use the filler plug?
 
I'm gonna guess he wants a higher oil level. I have an old, 89, diesel dodge, with the 5 spd. They are famous for taking out the bearing on the input shaft, supposedly from starving for oil. It was figured by the dodge cummins wizards that the fill plug was too low, and we now use the top bolt of the PTO cover for the fill line. fact or fantasy, I don't know, but mine is at 275k and workin good.
 
It's a lot easier for me to grab a wrench that fits the bolt quite nicely, than a wrench which kinda fits the tight-as-hell plug. My car is lowered with a flattened spring, and filling from the side is actually easier than through the intended hole from behind.
 
OK, So after cleaning and painting the repaired axle housing, backing plate and brake drum, and installing my new Bob Drake sway bar/tube shock package plus new shackle bushings my truck is all back together. I am amazed how much easier it rolls. Most of this is due to the dragging parking brake cable it had I'm sure but it's nice and my wife said it was much quieter as well. The one thing I don't like is the gas shocks seem to raise the truck about one inch. I'm not making a low rider here just trying to keep a uniform gap all the way around the the rear tire to fender. I think that when the truck is setting on the ground the shocks may be in a bind somewhere . It was late when we finished and I may have missed something . I will look this afternoon.
Thanks to all who offered advice on this project, Tim
 
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