Balancing wheels and tires

Russ/40

Russ/40

Well-known member
What have you guys done to balance your wheels? Can the typical tire shop handle the model "A" wheel on their balancing machines? What kind of weights do you use? Must they be spun balanced, or can they be bubble balanced?
 
When I got new tires for my coupe several years ago I took the mounted wheels and tires to a tire shop that had an old-fashioned bubble balancer. They did a good job and the car tracks straight down the road with no vibration.
But I've got a Model T buddy who swears by Dynabeads, the balancing beads that you pour into the inner tube. They cost a little more, I think...
Fearless
 
Going with dynabeads here. With the way the 21" wheels are the regular weights do not work out well and I have heard of many instances that the stick on weights come off to easy. Cost is about 20% higher based on what the local shop said they would do it for. Rod
 
The model A wheel needs to be mounted by the lug bolt holes to be balanced on a modern machine (most modern machines mount the wheel with cones in the center hole --which is how most modern cars center the wheel), I and many others here have used a spindle, and hub with lightly oiled bearings to do a static balance.

Sometimes trying different positions of the tire on the rim can balance the wheel without weights, using corn starch, or talc to lube the inside of the tire so the tube doesn't stick is also a good idea.

A model A is not as sensitive to balance as a modern car because the wheels are narrow and the suspension is heavy.

If you do not mind the look modern weights will fit the rims.

Many wheels have never been balanced, and there is probably no need if you do not intend on driving over 40.
 
I just put a set on, and I think I heard that you place the dot on the tire (if they have them) at the valve stem? I don't know, but I tried to do that and I have no problems. I've had it up to almost 50 and no balancing issues. I hadn't even heard of the dynabeads.
 
I balanced mine last month using the stick on weights. I put wheel on one front spindle and just started adding weights until it was as close to balance as I could get them. Actually got to where I could cut a 1/4 oz. weight in half and see the difference that 1/8 oz. made. That's how easy it spun on front. Remember to back off the brakes for clearance. We'll see if they stay on. :)
 
Dynabeads installed. With metal tube stems I had no problems with the beads dropping down the tube and into the tire. Used a palm sander to vibrate the stem and it took about 5 minutes per tire. Excellant ride.
 
My recent experiences.

I did 5 Goodyear tires. I looked up the dots and yellow is supposed to go near the valve. The other colors might have more to do out of round conditions. I believe the red dot is supposed to go next to the ***** mark on a modern rim.

In any event, I set up a static balance with a front spindle and some bearing with just light oil on them.

I put the tires on and used some tape to mark the initial position. I noted how out of balance by how fast the wheel rotated to the static position. I then let the air out and broke the bead to rotate the tire and see what happens.

As I recall, I had one tire come out right with the dot on the valve. One tire was decent with an 1/8 rotation of the tire. The others were much more out and I tried the tires in many positions around the rim. In each case there was a clear position that was the best balance.

I put the two real good tires on the front. The worst for the spare. I plan on getting dynabeads based on recommendations from people who drive thousands of miles. The car is not on the road yet. The car is being built close to stock and I have no troubles running a stock A 55 MPH when it is mechanically sound.
 
My feedback may be a little tainted since I am a dealer for DynaBeads however let me offer a scenario where they do not seem to perform well. When the wheel is 'egg-shaped' with a lot of axial run-out, it appears there is too much going on and it just "confuses" those little beads.:D

Outside of that, we have excellent results with them too.


BTW, we don't bother with those little dots as we put our own "balancing marks" on where ever we please!!:p
 

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Rowdy said:
...and I have heard of many instances that the stick on weights come off to easy. Rod
Click to expand...

One of our local club members sells tires. When he balances our '28-'29 wheels using stick-on weights, he runs a bead of weatherstrip adhesive (gorilla snot) around the weight. Says he's been doing this for years and never had a weight come off.

BTW, we always balance "A" wheels by mounting them on a front hub. There are no surfaces in the center of a Model A wheel that are true enough to use for balancing.

Joe
 
I was always confused with the balancing mark anyway. Some older tires are marked at the light spot as opposed to the heavy spot they are marked at now. I don't know if the ones I have seen like that were a factory mistake or a short lived industly change. Thankfully the S-3 Good Year I have for a spare is marked right. Rod
 
I installed dynabeads about two years ago and the results are good. No balancing issues at all and I drive my 30 Coupe on the highway at about 50 mph. Install the beads slowly with a vibration type engraver on the valve stem and they go in easily. No more costly than normal balancing at a shop.
 
IN the Winter 2009 Issue of the Model A Times we reviewed having a tire shop balance the wheels on our 1929 sedan with 21" wheels. Stick on weights were used and difference in the car was dramatic at highway speeds.
 
I balanced the wheels in a front hub using stick on weights also. Like Jon in his earlier post I was able to reach a point where 1/4 oz would make a difference. I found one front hub assembly was off almost a half an ounce by itself.
 
Rowdy said:
Going with dynabeads here. With the way the 21" wheels are the regular weights do not work out well and I have heard of many instances that the stick on weights come off to easy. Cost is about 20% higher based on what the local shop said they would do it for. Rod
Click to expand...

We use a Stewart Warner wheel balancer which balances the wheel on the car with the hub and drum as an assembly.
Standard weights work fine..Stick on weights will not come off if applied properly..Stick on's are even approved in some racing associations.
As with any form of balancing, the wheel MUST run true to start with.
You can static balance a bent wheel but you will never get the dynamic out of it.
 
Does anyone use the Dynabeads also installed their filter valve stem? I tried contacting them to see if their stem would also fit the Model A and they have no experience with it but were interested to know what I find out.
 
I have not balanced a tire on any vehicle I own (2 cars, a truck, a motorcycle and the A) in over 15 years.
They all run beads.
No more damaged paint or corroded rims. No more stick on weights that sometimes don't stay stuck.
 
Maybe Brent can reply as a dealer of the beads. How do they work? It would seem that they would travel to the heavest part of a spinning wheel by cintrifical force making the situation worse.
 
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