Balancing Model A Wheels ?

8EL

8EL

Senior Member
So while we a putting radial tires on our cars to improve readability and ride comfort, has anyone undertaken balancing these wheels? What I was thinking to do with the 19" rims used on my 31 coupe was statically (bubble) balance them with conventional lead weights. These rims have a return like other steel rims that commonly used such weight types successfully. I realize that some have opted to use beads installed internally in the tube based on wheel size that claim to maintain a constantly dynamic balance state. Probably more truth would lie in that the judges would most likely subtract points for the presence of the external lead weights. Has anyone used the lead weights, and if so have there been any mounting issues with them flying off while driving?
 
8EL said:
So while we a putting radial tires on our cars to improve readability and ride comfort, has anyone undertaken balancing these wheels? What I was thinking to do with the 19" rims used on my 31 coupe was statically (bubble) balance them with conventional lead weights. These rims have a return like other steel rims that commonly used such weight types successfully. I realize that some have opted to use beads installed internally in the tube based on wheel size that claim to maintain a constantly dynamic balance state. Probably more truth would lie in that the judges would most likely subtract points for the presence of the external lead weights. Has anyone used the lead weights, and if so have there been any mounting issues with them flying off while driving?
Click to expand...
I use balancing beads only! Look up Dyna-beads!!
 
Last time I changed my tires (June, 19" European Classic) I put balance beads in. As far as I can tell they don't work, or my tires are so far out that the 4oz of beads in each tube is not sufficient. I might try changing the tubes and using a bubble balance that one of my club members has.

A couple of years ago, with the old Goodyears, I had a shop spin balance them. Worked great, but they charged me an hour's labor ($140!) so not again, at least not at that shop. Finding folks around here that will even look at a Model A wheel is a challenge, too easy to just say no.
 
No issues on my radials. Put the weights on the inside after spin balancing. Worked great for me for the last 3500 miles. Inside the rim not inside the tire. lol
 
I just moved the tire around on the rim, no weights .
A cone used either inside or outside didn’t center the wheel the same as the lugs did.
 
I play with them on the spare tire mount, the inside is well talced .Yes it took a little effort on one of them, the second one I had to move 4 times,
I put the tires on using paint sticks instead of metal tire irons
 
Clean the rims with soap and water and rinse well and dry before using the stick-on lead weights. I have not had any come loose. The tire shop did not clean my rims on my truck and I find the lead weights on my driveway.

The technique of backing off the brake and bearings on one front hub and using that to balance the tires/wheels works good for me. Single plane balancing (static balancing) works OK for the skinny wheels/tires on a Model A. If you are running 16 inch tires, have a tire shop do a dynamic balance. Find a shop with the adapter for wheels that are mounted with bolts and do not have the center hole like modern wheels.
 
My '29 with 21" wheels has radial tires. After mounting they were spun balanced on a modern machine and stick on weights were used. These weights have been on for over 2000 miles on good and some pretty bad Maine rural roads. None have been lost. All are painted wheel color. Big tire depots will not touch the old wheels but many small shops in my area will. Bill
 
I have 19 inch radials on my model a. I used stick ons with a bubble balancer it worked but there were so many weights and the inside the wheels that it looked horrible. I removed them and installed balancing beans. It took me a day to do all 5 tires but they work great!
 
Most balancer in shops today are setup as hub centric— the hole in the center fits a raised area on the hub to center the wheel, some have a accessory plate that can be setup to mount the wheel by the lugs , it takes more labor to setup the balancer that way and you should expect to pay more.
I experimented with the balancer at work after I got the balance to no movement in any position on a front drum with the brakes backed off (8 clicks of the adjustment), I had several “test weights “ a bolt and nut weighing 1-1/2 oz, another at 1/2 oz and my fine balance weight at 1/4 oz .
When the 1/4 one would become the heavy spot no matter where it was put I considered the wheel balanced —- then it was put on the modern machine with cone inside and the machine said 2.5 oz out, the rim obviously was off center —made a mark on the tire and changed the cone to the outside and the machine showed a 3 oz imbalance a 1/3 turn away—- this proves that balancing on cones for centering is not valid at least for my rims.
 
This is the balancing technique that nKaminar mentions in his post.
 

Attachments

  • Wheel Balancing Technique On Car 234kb.jpg
    Wheel Balancing Technique On Car 234kb.jpg
    78.9 KB · Views: 66
J Franklin said:
I used a club member's bubble balancer and weights on the inside rim.
Click to expand...

This is what I did as well except I used my own balancer !
Used stick on weights on the inside and painted them to match the rim.
smooth as silk at 65 mph and below.
 
My method is basically the same as Neil's. I made a stand out of an old stub axle and well used but not pitted bearings. Trial and error adding weights tot he top of the wheel when it comes to rest. Same results as PeteW
 
I have access to a Snap-On dynamic balancer and we balance the drums, then the wheels and finally, the wheels mounted on the drums. A lot of work, but worth it. Not to long ago, I had the opportunity to see what the beads looked like in an old wheel/tire combo and I was not impressed.
 
Balance off a spindle is a good way to balance both drum and wheel assembly together but it only works on the fronts. I do my cycle wheels in a similar fashion but I use a mandrel beam on a leveled set of rotating bearings (like V-blocks only on bearings). I can do the rear wheel assemblies on it. The front ones I just balance on their spindles with the car jacked level.

The model A wheel rims don't work with the modern clip on type weights so stick ons placed on the inside work OK. Nobody makes spoke weights that large that would be similar to motorcycle spoke weights. I quit using them anyway since they are a pita to get off. As was mentioned, add weight to the top after the wheel quits trying to rotate. after the wheel will not rotate when put in any particular clock position then the unit will be as good as it gets balance wise.

Speed sensitive imbalance is not a weight problem. It is 90% a problem with the tire carcass. The other 10% is a bent rim or spoke causing tracking problems but that should be evident when spinning the wheel.
 
JayJay said:
A couple of years ago, with the old Goodyears, I had a shop spin balance them. Worked great, but they charged me an hour's labor ($140!) so not again, at least not at that shop. Finding folks around here that will even look at a Model A wheel is a challenge, too easy to just say no.
Click to expand...

I mounted my spare tire on my freshly painted spare wheel with new tube to the tire shop that does all the work on my modern vehicles. I didn't see what machinery they used to balance it, but the weights are typical lead weights clipped to the inside rim. it took just a few minutes. When I asked 'how much?', he said 'no charge'
 
Russell Reay said:
I mounted my spare tire on my freshly painted spare wheel with new tube to the tire shop that does all the work on my modern vehicles. I didn't see what machinery they used to balance it, but the weights are typical lead weights clipped to the inside rim. it took just a few minutes. When I asked 'how much?', he said 'no charge'
Click to expand...
I wish. I suspect that it took just a few minutes in my case, too. Around here the typical charge for a new tire mount & balance is $15-$25. Or $35 for balance only in the case of Model A wheels... This is the shop that I go to for my modern cars. Their service writer had been there forever, a great guy, looking out for the customer and to bring value added that guaranteed repeat visits. When he left they hired someone they brought over from Big O Tires. Push, push, push, sell, sell, sell. All about the transaction, let's see what we can squeeze out of the poor sucker this time. 'Nuff said.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top