Balancing Beads

I used them when I was on bias tires, but since I went to radials, the ride is good enough that I haven’t bothered to reinstall them.
 
I have used balancing beads. Can sometimes get out of balance for a ways when you start out, then evens out.
 
How they work: At above a "critical" speed, the tire's heavy spot will move in a smaller radius than the light spot. So the beads will move to the light spot to balance the tire. Below that critical speed the beads will move to the heavy spot and increase the unbalance.

What can go wrong: If the tire does not have a uniform radius they will not work. The beads are hard to shove down the intertube stem. They must not be wet or they will not roll to the light spot above the critical speed.

What is the alternative: Balance the wheels with stick on lead weights. Back off a bearing on the front and back off the brake (count the clicks) with that wheel jacked up. Take the wheel off and temporarily balance the brake drum with stick on weights. Put weights at the top after the drum stops until it stops at random places. Now mount each wheel/tire in turn and balance them the same way. Stick the weights were the spokes are welded to the rim. Take the temporary weight off the drum and return the bearing to the proper setting and return the brake to the proper setting. Re install all the wheels. Note that the wheel/tire/drum will not be 100 % balanced because each drum can be out of balance. Modern drums are balance with steel weights that are welded to the drums. The small unbalance at the drums does not seem to cause any problems. I use this method and have never had any problems.
 
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I have been using them for years in stock model A tires! Good articles on balancing beads web site.
 
Never had a balancing issue with the tires on my 29 AA truck until I installed a Warford overdrive. With the added speed the tires being unbalanced became quite problematic.
I put Dynabeads in the tires and now the ride is smooth.

They worked very well for me and I like them.

As far as getting the beads into the tubes it is not terribly hard. Can go into it in more detail as to how I did it if you decide to go that direction
 
I have them in my Coker Radials. Definitely do the job. And YES, I would do it again.
 
My technique of balancing Model "A" & early V8 Ford wheels:
 

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You can also wrap large diameter solder around the spokes instead of using the stick on weights. This works well with motorcycle or bicycle wheels.
 
45mph is about the fastest I drive my "A" and at that speed, I have never felt a tire being out of balance. I know they are out of balance because the wheels always ends up with the heavy side down after a good spin with the wheel off the ground. My drums could use a turning to eliminate a slight pulsing.

Regards
Bill
 
When I installed the Lucas tires I checked them on my HF bubble balancer and they were pretty far off. I rotated the tire on the rim and got them better but they were still off. I installed the balance beads and they worked out OK when installed on the car.

When I recently installed the American Classic Radials I was planning to install balance beads. But when I checked them on the balancer I was pleasantly surprised how in balance they were. Now I am not sure if I will use the balance beads or not. I have not notice any issues yet but I may install them just because I already bought them... We'll see.

One thing I noticed that I didn't like when I was using the balance beads is on occasion when checking the tire pressure the valve wouldn't seal. Maybe a bead (or bead dust?) stuck in it? Anyway, if you are going to use the beads I recommend you use valve cores with filters. They solved my problem. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08FF56F3F?tag=atomicindus08-20

Another thing I noticed is when installed the beads are white. When I removed them they were black. Made me think, are these things wearing out my tubes from the inside out?? :eek::eek:
 
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My system is pretty much what Bob Bidone explained. I have made a balancing stand from some scrap iron and an old stub axle. bearings that have been replaced but run smooth and a front wheel hub. My weights were pretty much as nkaminar described only I used lead reclaimed from an old battery. I have now changed to using stick-on weights but being economy conscious, I reuse them several times over by scraping off the adhesive layer and using double sided tape afterwards.
Some tyres are wayyyy of. I have seen a number of them that needed about 8-10 ounces. That is ridiculous!
I've never used beads and I doubt they would do much good with a wheel that far out.
 
If you don’t use the valve core with the filters do the following. Add just a touch of air to the tire before checking pressure. This will clear the valve of beads or dust then check the pressure.
 
Some tyres are wayyyy of. I have seen a number of them that needed about 8-10 ounces. That is ridiculous!
I've never used beads and I doubt they would do much good with a wheel that far out.

Yea, Since you usually only put in 4 oz. I doubt it would work if your tire is 8 oz. out...

I just don't like the looks of the stick on weights, that is why I started using the balance beads.

I have used Motorcycle spoke wheel balance weights in the past also. https://smile.amazon.com/Supply-Wheel-Weights-Universal-Angeled/dp/B0041CABPM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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New to the forum - great discussion just following for now - I am also very interested in trying balance beads - I know it's a pain getting then into the inner-tube
 
Getting balance beads into the inner tube can be frustrating . My method is to connect a 3" piece of clear tube of the proper diameter ( tight fit) put one end over the valve stem and the other onto a small funnel . I then vibrate the clear tube with an electric etching tool while slowly feeding the beads into the funnel . This must be done slowly or the beads will jamb up and get stuck. Get your timing right and they will march right in.
 
Has anyone used the liquid balancing that is sold for motorcycles? if so, would like to know how much you put in each tire.
 
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