Bad Wheel Wooble and fix

ericsauto said:
I need to brag just a bit. This is my very first trophy with this car. I got first place in Model A 28-31 class Closed top. I was also the second choice for next years Lead parade car. Got beat by a 1941 Hollywood Grahmn which was beautiful. I don't normally care about trophies but I have to admit this one felt good.

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Congrats and enjoy, thanks for your input.
 
WHN said:
Are you saying the washers caused the accidents or the bad wheels?

There are a lot of Model A’s running around using the lug nut washers and all are not because of bad wheels.
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I really didn't say either, barnstuff made the statement. Now I did just get off the phone with Snyder's and talked to Joe in Tech support. Here is what he told me to do and explained the washers.

First, they are not used on 29's but were used on later models wheel because of a shortage. Second, he said the washers should be used on a slightly worn wheel on the holes that are "slightly worn. He said I should take them off and install the lugs without them first. If there is one or two that are slightly worn then use a washer so that the wheel gets tight. Torque the wheels to 64-foot LBS and make sure there is no play between wheel seat and lug. People have used washers on all, though not recommended. If you do that then you should torque your wheels frequently to make sure they are snug. I personally, on any wire wheel new or old, would torque them every 500 miles. ANY looseness especially if you use washers, will need to replace the wheel. This all new to me, so I am sure they'll be opinions and I will respect them either way. Thanks again all.
 
I would check the rims for run-out. You should try for about 1/8" to 1/16". Also check the Caster. it should be 6 or 7 Deg.s. A magnetic protractor works great for that. Since your a mechanic you probably have one. Check the ball mount on the front wishbone to the Transmission if it's loose and the casters low then you can add a shim in there. The model A suppilers have them. I always like to check the basic's first. Also check and see if the rims are round. To straighten the rims I've mounted the bent rim on the rear of the car and then using a small bottle jack from the frame against the rim at the low spot gently ease it out. Keep spinning the rim and jack the low spots until the rim runs true. That's one way of doing it. Hope this helps. JP
 
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Tinbasher said:
I would check the rims for run-out. You should try for about 1/8" to 1/16". Also check the Caster. it should be 6 or 7 Deg.s. A magnetic protractor works great for that. Since your a mechanic you probably have one. Check the ball mount on the front wishbone to the Transmission if it's loose and the casters low then you can add a shim in there. The model A suppilers have them. I always like to check the basic's first. Also check and see if the rims are round. To straighten the rims I've mounted the bent rim on the rear of the car and then using a small bottle jack from the frame against the rim at the low spot gently ease it out. Keep spinning the rim and jack the low spots until the rim runs true. That's one way of doing it. Hope this helps. JP
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Thanks, all good stuff. As a mechanic, I have learned that the basics are always first. Again, all this was check because of the good posts on this forum. Rims are pretty true and I am satisfied with that. Had it on my alignment rack, and all is good. I have that luxury for alignments. We do a lot of specialty car alignments. When it comes down to what the real issue was it was the lack of maintenance on the bearings and greasing. Remember when you buy a car, no matter how good it looks, check everything over. That was my first mistake. I am anal how I take care of things and it will be checked religiously. Again steering stabilizer will stay one and regular checks will be made. I will take the stabilizer off and drive it during my maintenance sessions but I will continue to keep it on for comfort after that. Sorry guys, my preference but all your comments are great. Thank you again. Eric
 
A month or so ago I posted a very lengthy PDF explaining my steering woes that were getting worse every year. I checked, rechecked,double checked,replaced, cursed,prayed and cried. I was near hanging a for sale sign on my Tudor. Just for shitzngiggles I pulled the cotter pins out of the spring perches and found the drivers side nut took two full turns and the passenger side took almost one full turn. Put new Cotter pins back in and went for a test. Bingo baby momma. steers like a dream. My axle had been wobbling just enough to make life miserable in spite of the fact the cotter pins were in place. No matter how experienced a person thinks they are these dang cars will humble you. LOL
 
Tacoma Bob said:
A month or so ago I posted a very lengthy PDF explaining my steering woes that were getting worse every year. I checked, rechecked,double checked,replaced, cursed,prayed and cried. I was near hanging a for sale sign on my Tudor. Just for shitzngiggles I pulled the cotter pins out of the spring perches and found the drivers side nut took two full turns and the passenger side took almost one full turn. Put new Cotter pins back in and went for a test. Bingo baby momma. steers like a dream. My axle had been wobbling just enough to make life miserable in spite of the fact the cotter pins were in place. No matter how experienced a person thinks they are these dang cars will humble you. LOL
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That I am learning, you guys are the best. Adding this one to my check list[emoji106]


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