Bad Universal?

S

Stevef

Junior Member
Recently got a 37 1/2 ton PU. Finally got it driving. Upshifting is fine. But when I down shift from 2nd to 3rd I feel a significant pulsing in the shifter. It stops as the car slows. Also when I start in first from a cold start I hear a clunk, but that does not seem to occur again if i stop and start again...only the first time. Somebody told me it might be a bad universal...any toughts and is there an easy way to check the universal...i have been told you have to pull the rear end...thanks
PS I also has a Columbia 2 speed OD
 
Did a bit more testing today....pulsing occurs as I release the clutch...more violent the faster I am going...so we are in 3rd, clutch in, downshift, as clutch goes out a pretty significant shake in the shifter and you can actually feel it in your butt! Once the clutch is released it stops. Also if you are driving along let is coast a bit in 2nd as you reengage the engine ...it shakes. No problem downshifting from 3rd to second. Also I think i hear a noise when underload (kind of a clatter) as you put it under load (up a hill) but not sure that is just not normal....so clutch or universal? Help!
 
Well the way I see it, you will need to remove the floor and slide the rear axle back so the first thing you will get a look at is the u-joint. If thats not it remove the transmission next and make sure the clutch assy is in order.
 
I second what Ken said but having replaced a very bad universal not to long ago my symptoms were the clunking in first(not just when cold) and a clunking when decelerating in any gear.
 
I think it is the bolt that holds the universal to the transmisson tail shaft is loose, either way you will have to slide the rear end back to check u joint or bolt. While doing that replace u joint with new needle bearing joint. Good luck I hope it helps.EPW
 
My only experience with a bad u joint was a vibration when you went over 30mph. Greased the u joint with a slurry of low melt grease and gear oil and problem solved.
You might be lucky if you grease it.
Regards, Don
 
Thanks for all the suggestion....back on track after Sandy and will pull the rear and look!
Steve
 
Use a low melt temperature grease in the "U" joint. There is also a pin through the coupling at the rear of the drive shaft. Sometimes this pin slides loose and makes a clicking noise every time the shaft turns. G.M.
 
I've never done it,but I understand that it's not easy to get the trans and driveshaft reconnected,especially if you try it without help.The way it was explained to me,was to use a comalong to pull it back to avoid unbolting rear spring from the frame.sounded unsafe.anyone have simple reassembly hints?SORRY,didn't think about truck being open drive shaft.
 
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I've always disconnected rear spring and pulled the rearend back. On reassembly it helps alot to have two people, one to push the rearend forward and another to guide ujoint onto the driveshaft(watch your fingers) I've never had a hard time doing it this way.
 
I think the mention of a comealong is to pull the rearend forwards to re-engage on the trans. The spring would be out of the frame. I think you have imagined it the other way round pulling the axle back with the spring still in the frame. You are right, that would be risky if it would work at all. I'm pretty sure that was not what was mentioned.

The idea is that you can be up front guiding the uj onto the driveshaft while slowly pulling the rear end forward.

Mart.
 
Easy way to put rear end back by yourself is to lift banjo with a floor jack & pull & guide it into place at the front,then use a pry bar on spring as you lift it into place.Engine re & re can also be done by yourself with a hyd shop crane.
 
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