Bad Stud thread

Y-Blockhead said:
Didn't he mention he had a Graphtite head gasket?
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The way I took it (-when Katy suggested annealing) was "Can this also be done on a graphite gasket?" -as in can this be done on this type gasket also.

I will tell you straight-up that the Model-A deck surface will NOT hold 75 lbs of torque without distorting. If the deck is distorted or the RA finish is not good enough, you will never get a Graphite gasket to seal (-new or used!!).



Pete said:
Just for your information, 75 is a very conservative number for testing deck threads on a flathead Ford. We test at 100 ft lb.

Testing should be done while doing machine work on the block and before any cleaning. This way you are assured there will be no drilling or machining after assembly with the consequent chips getting inside.

Threads should be chased with a tap, not a chaser. You CAN NOT get an accurate torque reading with rust and scale left in the threads.
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Pete, since the Model-A block uses studs that are stationary, are you/we referring to rust inside the threads of the block affecting torque values??
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
The way I took it (-when Katy suggested annealing) was "Can this also be done on a graphite gasket?" -as in can this be done on this type gasket also.

I will tell you straight-up that the Model-A deck surface will NOT hold 75 lbs of torque without distorting.

>Tell that to several circle track guys and the guy that was top fuel 4 banger
eliminator at the Antique Nationals a couple of times.


Pete, since the Model-A block uses studs that are stationary, are you/we referring to rust inside the threads of the block affecting torque values??
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Yes.
 
Here it is in it's current state. I will take a plastic razor blade and trim the blue sealant off after it sets up around the water neck. It just looks better.
 

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When working on the Model A engine there is no other worse feeling than going for 55 ft-lbs and feeling the torque wrench start to "cave in on you"! I recently purchased a Model A and about a month after I had it, the crankcase got a lot of water in it. I had a heck of a time getting the head off of the engine and found that who whoever rebuilt it, had two improperly drilled Helicoils which resulted in two leaning studs. I like John Charlton's idea of bending a stud but John wasn't at my house when I needed him! I felt that the engine had been together so it had to go back together the way was. I put all the good studs into the block. I put on the head gasket and the cylinder head on the block. Then using NeverSeize, I installed the two troublesome studs using a single nut threaded on half way and a spare stud threaded into the other half of the nut to stop any turning. When the studs hit the top of the hole in the block, the treads are lined up enough to start OK, it is only as the stud gets deeper that there is more and more interference with the stud and the upper area of the cylinder head. This is where the NeverSeize comes into play, all of the stud was coated and I was surprised that with the wrench on the nut and the spare stud on top of the nut, locking the assembly together, I could turn the stud down into the Helicoil to the required depth. I know this isn't the best but who wants to pull the engine and take it to a machine shop for correction. I worked for me and everything torqued down just fine to 55 ft-lbs. After 1000 miles there is no water leakage. Ed
 
In the bargain rebuilt engine I purchased when I screwed the head bolt into a helio coiled hole the stud was leaning so I marked the side and bent it in the press so it would be vertical.The only problem now is that the head would have to come off to remove the stud.So I remember which one it was I put a dab of nail polish on it,my secret!
 
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