Bad Points

Dtolson

Dtolson

Member
I replaced my points along with rotor, distributor, coil wire and plugs on my 29 CPU last weekend. I also re-set the timing for the first time. I was anxious to see any improvement in the performance of the engine. But, not so much to my own surprise, it wouldn't start. No fire to any plug. I re-checked all settings, gaps, and timing, and still no fire. Since it was running before I started the tune up, I decided to start replacing all the new parts with the old parts until it hopefully started. Through my process of elimination, when I replaced the new points with the old ones, it fired right up.. Considering the basic nature of points, how could they be bad? I bought them from a reliable dealer near me that re-builds engines, so I am confident he gave me the right part. Has anyone else had this problem and what is your recommend for replacement points? Also, my truck came with the NuRex spark advance already installed. It has the modern distributor plate and points.
 
Dtolson said:
I replaced my points along with rotor, distributor, coil wire and plugs on my 29 CPU last weekend. I also re-set the timing for the first time. I was anxious to see any improvement in the performance of the engine. But, not so much to my own surprise, it wouldn't start. No fire to any plug. I re-checked all settings, gaps, and timing, and still no fire. Since it was running before I started the tune up, I decided to start replacing all the new parts with the old parts until it hopefully started. Through my process of elimination, when I replaced the new points with the old ones, it fired right up.. Considering the basic nature of points, how could they be bad? I bought them from a reliable dealer near me that re-builds engines, so I am confident he gave me the right part. Has anyone else had this problem and what is your recommend for replacement points? Also, my truck came with the NuRex spark advance already installed. It has the modern distributor plate and points.
Click to expand...

There's your problem, hard to find quality points anymore. Go back
to the original style.

Bob
 
With a continuity meter and the points set out of the distributor check for continuity with the points together. Sometimes they just need to be shined up at the contacts as they can tarnish from humidity even when new.
 
I sanded them before installing them the second time and rotate the engine to make sure the points were opening and closing at the proper gap (20).
 
Most points aren't bad that people replace. If you have wear block left and you have decent points then there is no reason to change them. You do need a polished (well smooth) and lubricated cam.

I have a bunch of used points all of which are good with decades of life left in them.

If I was selling new V8 points I would recommend you switch to them. I would make more money off of you. It seems they get changed a lot.
 
Your best friend,,, no parts swaping or winging it needed...
 

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Dtolson said:
I replaced my points along with rotor, distributor, coil wire and plugs on my 29 CPU last weekend. I also re-set the timing for the first time. I was anxious to see any improvement in the performance of the engine. But, not so much to my own surprise, it wouldn't start. No fire to any plug. I re-checked all settings, gaps, and timing, and still no fire. Since it was running before I started the tune up, I decided to start replacing all the new parts with the old parts until it hopefully started. Through my process of elimination, when I replaced the new points with the old ones, it fired right up.. Considering the basic nature of points, how could they be bad? I bought them from a reliable dealer near me that re-builds engines, so I am confident he gave me the right part. Has anyone else had this problem and what is your recommend for replacement points? Also, my truck came with the NuRex spark advance already installed. It has the modern distributor plate and points.
Click to expand...

If you are using the modern points there is a possibility that the plate connector was touching on the upper plate, it can "Walk" when you tighten the points. I prefer the original point setup
 
Sometimes the point arm can short against the cam before the points touch.
Also, I have seen new points with an internal short in the area where the small wire attaches to them. Very hard to find.
 
Just went thru that scenario. Points and condenser $11.00 made in China. From a major parts store. Total and complete junk. Eichlin from NAPA $31.00. Good points. You could tell just by looking at them. Funny part, the NAPA clerk said she had worked at the other store for nine years. She ask the other clerk how to spell condenser.
 
I was told recently Eichlin is made in Puerto Rico and they can consider this as USA made.

The old time mechanics when working with points always pulled a paper matchbook out of their pocket and rubbed it between the points. It is still a good idea to do this to remove filing residue.
 
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