bad fuse block

B

Brentwood Bob

Well-known member
I installed a fuse block next to the starter switch on the 30-1 huckster.
It won't work hooking the 12v cable from the battery. It keeps blowing 30 amp fuses. Surprise.
I am guessing the wire lead from the aux to the starter is not designed to replace the battery cable. I am now removing the fuse block.
I can only say I am electrically challenged.
Guess the big battery disconnect switch on the ground side of the battery will have to protect the wire harness if the starter switch shorts out. I already have an in line fuse at the yellow wire for the ignition circuit.
Thought I would open this up to discussion if only to admit I don't know very much.
Bob
 
Bob, hook that puppy up so the fuze is out of the picture, battery to starter, then take the auxiliary wire for the fuse to the starter post and all the other circuits run off the other end of the fuze. The starter remains hooked up to the battery but everything else is protected by the fuze. I'll email you a picture of 29 Smile. By the by. Went to Cars and Coffee this morning and as I came in one of the docents asked if 29 SMILE belonged to Allen Funt. I told him yeas and he told me how he knew that was he had seen an A400 with a SMILE (YR<) plate. I thought Funt had only owned one Model A. Seems I'm wrong again.
 
Stock wiring has the yellow wire attached to the starter switch along with the battery cable. To install the fuse holder one removes only the yellow wire from the starter switch and replaces it with the wire from the fuse holder. The starter switch now has the battery and the wire from the fuse holder. The original yellow wire now goes to the stud on the fuse holder.
 
Thanks guys. I am better now.
I even took the auxillary fuse holder apart and replaced the stud with a stainless piece of thread stock and nice thick nylon washers to insulate the stud.
When I went to buy the second pack of 30 amp fuses I rethought what I was trying to do and mended my ways.
took some time for it to sink in.
The insulation for the oem starter switch needs to be replaced now.
Bob
 
Brentwood Bob said:
Thanks guys. I am better now.
I even took the auxillary fuse holder apart and replaced the stud with a stainless piece of thread stock and nice thick nylon washers to insulate the stud.
When I went to buy the second pack of 30 amp fuses I rethought what I was trying to do and mended my ways.
took some time for it to sink in.
The insulation for the oem starter switch needs to be replaced now.
Bob
Click to expand...

Look into these;

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Mike where are these available? What about the 12 volt? Is it available in 6 VOLT? Thanks a million RAY
 
Guess I just had bad luck with these circuit breakers. Tried three and all three failed in short order, one right out of the box. No problem with the fuse installed.
 
jax55 said:
Guess I just had bad luck with these circuit breakers. Tried three and all three failed in short order, one right out of the box.
Click to expand...

Are you installing them the correct way. I do believe they have a "flow" direction. I have never had a problem with them.

I even added a second 20a circuit breaker http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CBF20-Replacement-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00139FQLU/?tag=atomicindus08-20 on my light circuit so if I have a short in the lights I don't lose all power.
 
The common G.M, bayonet type circuit breaker does NOT have a flow direction. On some cars, they're used in place of bayonet fuses. A 30 Amp on Minerva worked perfect. I wouldn't use one of lower amps, on the main yellow wire coming off of the battery cable end, at the starter switch, as it handles EVERYTHING electrical in the car. I, personally, would not hesitate to use a 40 Amp. If you use the type that pops into the CHEEP fuse holders, you STILL have the problem with the CHEEP fuse holders CORRODING or getting LOOSE. I use a pre-made PIG TAIL, that accepts the G.M. bayonet type circuit breakers. I use 10 Amp ones, for the headlight & the horn feed & if a short occurs in one of those systems, it'll just trip that breaker & will NOT break the MAIN breaker, & the car will continue to RUN & NO chance of the charging system to go BEZERK!!
I'm NOT Tom W, BUT I'm pretty good on electrical crap, BUT, I COULDN'T build a ROCKET LAUNCHER--lol
Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
The common G.M, bayonet type circuit breaker does NOT have a flow direction.
Bill W.
Click to expand...

jax55 said:
Guess I just had bad luck with these circuit breakers.
Click to expand...

Hi Bill (and jax55). I was referring to the circuit breaker that Mitch suggested and they do indeed have a flow direction. One terminal is marked BAT and the other AUX.


BILL WILLIAMSON said:
...fuse holders CORRODING
Bill W.
Click to expand...

That's why GOD made Di-electric grease... :D
 
The Master Cylinder said:
Hi Bill (and jax55). I was referring to the circuit breaker that Mitch suggested and they do indeed have a flow direction. One terminal is marked BAT and the other AUX.
M.C, I vaguely remember seeing the inside circuitry of one like that, they added some other feature to it, but I don't remember what it was.



That's why GOD made Di-electric grease... :D
Click to expand...
I ONLY know about VASELINE! Sumbody tole me about it, a LOOOOONG time ago---LOL:D
Bill W.
 
Two things: Don't use your fuse holder as a switch. Taking the fuse out every time you park it will loosen things up. It was not designed to be a switch.
The place to sneak in an in-line fuse is in the brake light circuit. It's a nasty job to get to the switch out on the road.
 
Master cylinder, perhaps I did put it in incorrectly. I never saw a flow direction on it, it seemed to only fit one way in the fuse holder. Are the markings in the plastic case?
Perhaps I will try another one and see if I have any better luck.
Thanks for the info.
 
"Hi Bill (and jax55). I was referring to the circuit breaker that Mitch suggested and they do indeed have a flow direction. One terminal is marked BAT and the other AUX."

Be sure to remember the Model A has positive ground, so how does that now apply to the BAT and AUX markings?
 
jax55 said:
Master cylinder, perhaps I did put it in incorrectly. I never saw a flow direction on it, it seemed to only fit one way in the fuse holder. Are the markings in the plastic case?
Perhaps I will try another one and see if I have any better luck.
Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

jax55, Yes it is cast into the plastic by the terminals. Also notice that the BAT terminal has a brass rivet, the other silver colored.

Tom Wesenberg said:
Be sure to remember the Model A has positive ground, so how does that now apply to the BAT and AUX markings?
Click to expand...

Now that is a good question, my A was converted 12v NEG ground before I bought it. I believe it is set up this way because of the "Fail Safe" feature. It will not reset until the short is corrected, unlike other circuit breakers.

I would imagine BAT would be the POS terminal so wire it with AUX toward the NEG side of battery. I'm SO Confused.
 
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