Bad exahust

B

Bill OR.

Member
My question is , after installing a aluminum intake manifold my 15 engine started fine but ran me out of the shop .The exhaust was really bad . I tried all the fuel mixtures i could think of . Didn't help. The one thing i did notice was that the manifold iced really fast at the elbow. Put the cast iron manifold back on and all is well. Cold but not the ice. So much for trying to get 2 more horse power. Why ? Bill
 
Put a hot air intake pipe on it and it won't do that. There should have been one on your old manifold. Search the forum using the words: ice carburetor and you'll have more explanation for your problem than is really needed. I hope you have good luck with it,
 
ldj1002 said:
Running hot air to the carb will cause power loss, ask any pilot.
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Yes indeed, turning on the "carb heat" control when needed will cause a noticable loss in power in a piston powered aircraft. But I was always a believer when flying my Taylorcraft that not using the carb heat system would cause all of the noise up front to stop - not a good thing! There are dead pilots out there who sadly cannot comment on the results of ignoring carb icing.

The T was designed to run with the heat stove working all of the time & in reality it passes adequate air to feed the tiny bore of the stock T carb.

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Henry designed the Model T with a hot air pipe for a reason. If your Model T carburetor is frosting up it would be worthwhile to try what Henry did and put a hot air pipe on it.
 
Wow, thanks for the reply s. Last summer i did put a hot air pipe on the cast iron manifold but found it hard starting. i am using a NH carb and with the hot air pipe on it seemed to restrict the air intake when hand cranking. So i just put it back the way it was and she is very happy. May be in the future i will put the aluminum manifold back on with the hot air pipe. I found do not mess with a Model T. They will tell you if something is wrong. thanks Bill
 
Not sure how your hot air pipe would restrict the air flow and would cause hard starting. Do you have a stock hot air pipe or after market? The stock ones are very open. Are you using the choke to prime the motor and opening the spray needle valve some when starting?
 
Yes i have stock hot air pipe ,hand choke and 1/4 turn more on spray needle.
From what i have found out the hot air pipe is needed with the aluminum manifold also something to divert the air coming off the fan blade. Possibly that air is causing the vapor to convert back to liquid droplets at that elbow.
I read that in one of my old books i have. It was such a change in operation that i did not expect but the hot air pipe will be used next time. Any way right now all is good .Thanks, Bill
 
Bill,
This is my first post so somewhat a test. If you get tired of that stem winder let me know and I'll come over and get it. So as this is my first post hello everyone. I'm Mike Stitt and live down the street from Bill in Phoenix Oregon. Bill has a nice little car.
 
Doug Money said:
No one has answered the original question. Why did the exhaust smell so bad with the other manifold?
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He probably richened it to keep it running. I never started mine and let it run unless I was going to get it out and drive it. They need to fully warm up and have the mixture adjusted on the road to run really well.

Gotta have that heat stove on there.
 
I could be wrong...
But if he put the heat pipe on it would run even richer?
I can see how heat helps run better and get better gas mileage but a cool intake and carb runs leaner so he should not be getting gassed out faster then before.
I think its more the carb then the intake
Is this the same carb?
How long did the carb sit ?
Did you clean the carb ?

I have never played with a stock T but helped out a buddy with his speedster.
He is running a Winfield carb now.
 
I've got an NH carburetor on a bone stock engine. I'm running a heat pipe on my T and it does just fine. Though I've never felt the need for more horsepower I can understand why someone else might. I have a tendency to drive my T nice and easy. Not much faster than 30 -35 mph. I've never run into a hill that was a problem. I just went up in low gear. Because of this mindset I'd never feel a need to add 2 more horsepower. We have guys in our club who get their jollies running 45 mph during our tours. They hurry up and get to the end of the tour and then stand there bored and give the rest of us hell for taking our time and enjoying the run. I see something wrong with that. But to each his own. Now that's not to say I'd be against building a speedster with the motor pushing some more horsepower. But then I'd want wire wheels, improved steering and a few other improvements. But neither of my T's are speedsters and I'm just going to enjoy the ride. OK so all that aside the question remains: What else has Bill Or done to his engine to add more horsepower and are these changes causing some issues?
 
I have found that every time something is changed from the factory specifications to "improve" the car, there are other things that are also effected, not always to an improvement. I have tried lots of things on a model T and an A, and a lot of the stuff did nothing to improve the car, and in some cases made things worse. There were full catalogs of improvements for fords in the teens, twenties, and thirties, and much of is was junk. On club tours, it is the modified cars that have trouble, not the factory equipped ones. Your thoughts may differ.
 
2manycars said:
I have found that every time something is changed from the factory specifications to "improve" the car, there are other things that are also effected, not always to an improvement. I have tried lots of things on a model T and an A, and a lot of the stuff did nothing to improve the car, and in some cases made things worse. There were full catalogs of improvements for fords in the teens, twenties, and thirties, and much of is was junk. On club tours, it is the modified cars that have trouble, not the factory equipped ones. Your thoughts may differ.
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Couldn't agree with you more!
 
Bill exactly how cold was it outside? If it wasn't REALLY cold you've probably got a rich mixture condition. I can see low outside temps affecting the aluminum faster than cast iron but I can't see any one doing this job in freezing temps either. Unburnt fuel really stinks. As stated above: you need the pipe and it shouldn't restrict air flow. One last thing... If you're drag racing other club members to a tour location find another club or start your own. Half of these high speed boys have a yard full of stuff their dying to use at no cost to them. I'm not there. I've got my car. That's it. And it's getting me home.
 
I think there are that type in every group, the ones that have to race to finish line. Yes I am trying to boost my top end also, more to the point of not having a trailer to get to the tour and having to deal with city traffic.

Even if the mixture was rich, that is what the spray needle is for. You might take the spray needle out and see what condition it is in. If there is a ring around the tip it needs to be cleaned up or replaced. The other thing you can do to make sure it is closing all the way. Clean the tip off and coat the end with magic marker. Then reinstall and close down till it just makes contact take it back out and see that there is a clean spot where it makes contact with the seat. You could also have extra smoke because the intake was not seated tight to the block and need a richer mixture to run.
I should add, by my AC speedometer my car likes the 32 to 35 range, it just putts right along as happy as a clam in butter!
 
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