Bad Ampere Gauge?

Idaho Brett

Idaho Brett

Member
I just spent all day installing new wires from the new battery to the new coil and distributor. I followed the instructions to a "T". The result = Starter won't even crank. I re-traced the instruction diagram again and everything was connected as it should.

Could a bad ampere gauge prevent the starter from getting electricity? If your familiar with the wiring there is a yellow wire and a yellow+black wire connected to separate posts on the amp gauge. If the ampere gauge is no good, can I just connect the two wires together and bypass the ampere gauge without "bad" things happening?

I'm trying to get the Model A entered in a Christmas Parade so I just need to get it going. No need to be correct for now; that will be a later project. Thanks.
 
Yes a bad gauge is a break in the electrical system and would cause the starter to not operate. As for bypassing it and connecting the two wires, I wouldn't. I would buy a cheap correct style ammeter (one that measures the actual amperage output) until you can find the correct one you want.
 
Does the engine turn over with the hand crank? If it does turn over the problem may be with the starter contact, make sure the contact is cleaned up, also check the battery ground cable. If you can't crank it over the starter pinion may be jammed in the ring gear, you can try to free that up by putting the shift in second and rocking the car back. Sometimes that pops it out or remove the starter and check the Bendix drive and the pinion teeth.
 
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First, you followed the instructions to a 'T'. You need to use the instructions for an 'A' ! [ where is the smiley face font]
The amp gauge or light wiring has nothing to do with the starter operation. The starter is a direct connection to its switch from the battery - negitive terminal. It needs the battery + ground connection to be in good shape. The starter should then work, engine won't start, but, starter will work.
With all the wiring connected, does the ammeter register at all ? Is there is discharge with the lights on ?
Yes the ammeter wires can be bolted together to bypass the gauge.

'30 and I were typing together and Barry has a good point about the starter gear possibly being stuck.
 
Quickly hook a jumper cable from the battery ground post to a bare spot on the engine. This will rule out a bad ground, might be where the ground cable bolts to the crossmember. Bill.W.
(And, STUDY, STUDY, STUDY, the wiring diagram, it can be almost a BASIC ELECTRICAL, 101! Trace out each circuit, & say to yourself, "OH! this flows to that, & this causes that to do it's doodley job, & this cuts this off & on, when it's needed, & that causes that to activate, & HEY! this stuff ain't so MYSTERIOUS, after all, HMM! I think I'll go have a COLD ONE"!!) (ME TOO!) Always trace a circuit, starting at the battery - negative post, through that complete circuit & back to the + positive battery ground post. Makes it easier to comprehend. And remember, excluding the lighting, there's only "about" 7 wires! (EASY!) Bill W.
 

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The ammeter can quickly be bypassed by simply using a clip lead to jump the two wing nuts on the terminal box cover. The only time this won't work is if the ammeter is grounding out due to a bad insulator, which is rare.
 
Look at the starter switch. If you pull the starter set it on a bench and rotate it with jumper cables, it should turn over. Check to see if the shaft is wobbling(bent) This can cause the bendix to lockup.
Is the battery fully charged.
Bob
 
Hopefully, since you followed the diagram to a "T", you did not route the starter circuitry through the amp meter. As so many have said in this thread, the starter is fed directly by the heavy duty negative cable.
 
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