backing plate ebrake cable guide fixes

Kube said:
Here's what it should look like assembled. Left side is at bottom of photo.
Click to expand...

thank you sooo much! ...very helpful.

before taking on this job, i managed to dig up this youtube video. i watched it once and fortunately remembered something about the spring being inadvertently installed backwards, which apparently prompted me to notice that the upper handbrake lever was on the wrong side of the lower one on the left side and was probably why it had fallen off on the right side. ..."forensic car repair", oy vey!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BOwH7rEuoI
 
Huey: Here's a couple more photos. First is passenger side rear. Second is driver side rear.
On each side the larger dia. of wheel cylinder faces forward as does the longer brake shoe.

While you have it apart, check the interior surfaces of your rear brake drum hubs and the rear wheel bearings to make sure they are not damaged or "scored". I say that because of the shims someone installed may have affected concentricity.
 

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As you can see the horizontal lever goes BEHIND the parking brake lever . It’s sandwiched between the shoe and lever keeping it secure. And be careful, I’ve seen many that have been ground on .
 
19Fordy said:
Huey: Here's a couple more photos. First is passenger side rear. Second is driver side rear.
On each side the larger dia. of wheel cylinder faces forward as does the longer brake shoe.

While you have it apart, check the interior surfaces of your rear brake drum hubs and the rear wheel bearings to make sure they are not damaged or "scored". I say that because of the shims someone installed may affected concentricity.
Click to expand...
571966


571967
 
and because the hand brake levers were put on the wrong sides, the horseshoe clips that hold them on were installed and are only accessible (if one can even call them accessible) from the back, and so it's necessary to remove the shoes to get at them! when installed correctly they are easily accessible (as in the pics) from the front.

i'm now a bit surprised that the car stops straight and are effective. although i suppose that the majority of the problems involving assembly is/was with the handbrake mechanism.

and it's clear in the first pic that the return spring is designed to come in from BEHIND its anchoring slot on the left and FRONT of it on the right. another cockup that was evident on my car. smh
 
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hueyhoolihan said:
thank you sooo much! ...very helpful.

before taking on this job, i managed to dig up this youtube video. i watched it once and fortunately remembered something about the spring being inadvertently installed backwards, which apparently prompted me to notice that the upper handbrake lever was on the wrong side of the lower one on the left side and was probably why it had fallen off on the right side. ..."forensic car repair", oy vey!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BOwH7rEuoI
Click to expand...

Pm sent
 
update:

only a few more incidental parts to gather up before reassembly begins. cotter pins, maybe some locktite.

the new-to-me left rear backing plate arrived today. the upper spring-loaded adjusting eccentrics were rusted solid. ...not too surprised. took me an hour's time to break them loose using heat and a four foot long improvised breaker bar!

unfortunately i found that all four brake shoes for the rear brakes on my car were/are identical. i was assuming that one on each side would/should be shorter, or at least the ablative surface of it, than the other. was i mistaken...yet again? research is not giving me a clear answer. there's something about "self-energizing" that's often mentioned.

BTW, i found a way or a procedure (i assume this is well-known, but haven't seen it in any videos or mentioned in any forums) for installation of the shoes and most importantly the spring without the use of any brake pliers or vice-grips or any tools whatsoever.
 
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Your old Ford has Lockheed style brakes . The Bendix style were not on cars until 49.

The difference is, your old Ford brakes are pinned to the backing plate on the bottom, so the only movement is from the wheel cylinder on top

Bendix brakes, nothing is pinned to the backing plate so when you stomp on the brakes the whole assembly can move and rotational force makes the shoe dig in harder.

Poorly explained, hope you get it. Bendix are a great improvement.

Your lockheeds originally had the big shoe, like the big end of the wheel cylinder to the rear, backwards of bendix. It was common years ago for shoe reliner folks to just make them both the same size, not a big deal. Hope I'm correct, big on rear? Always have to think about that, at any rate, backwards of modern bendix style.
 
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thanks...
thanks, cas3

yes, understood that with the bendix's the whole assembly moves. and with the lockheeds it doesn't. what threw me was that when i searched the web for new shoes, i was seeing lockheed shoes that were identical on some sites and different front to back on others.

so not a big deal, eh?...i'm fine with that. uniformity is good. :)
 
@cas3

Lockheed brakes: Big side of wheel cylinder and long lining to the front.

Bendix brakes: short lining to the front.

Many reproduction Lockheed sets have all the linings the same length.

I have seen a couple numbers of Bendix sets with equal length linings but; doesn't seem right to me.
 
on the rear cable there is a small clip that goes some where on the cable part number 91a 2113 where does it go thanks
 
It goes at the end of the tube, to keep the spring from going in the tube. You can see it in the photo above, just barely visible at the end on the tube
 
Hueyhoolihan The cross lever and the down lever pivot on two different length pins with recesses at one end and a head on the other. The levers are held to the pins with large C clips in the recesses that are bent so they can not come off. You can get the C clips and the pins at many aftermarket suppliers.
 
Thanks I think I get it. Do you pull the spring tight so part of the spring is on the lever and part of the spring is in the tube no more of the spring can go in the lever with the clip installed
 
bill h said:
Thanks I think I get it. Do you pull the spring tight so part of the spring is on the lever and part of the spring is in the tube no more of the spring can go in the lever with the clip installed
Click to expand...

i think the clip is designed to sit at the very end of the spring and against the tube, and is designed to ensure the cable returns equitably on the left and right side of the car to its resting place inside the hub. however...

when i installed my new rear e-brake cable a few months ago, i found that the springs on the ends of it were much too strong and long to be compressed very much at all. so i positioned the clip closer to the center of the spring than near its end. leaving part of the spring in the tube. will the clip work its way up or out of the spring? possibly...i don't know. if it does, i'll fix it i guess.
 
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hueyhoolihan said:
i think the clip is designed to sit at the very end of the spring and against the tube, and is designed to ensure the cable returns equitably on the left and right side of the car to its resting place inside the hub. however...

when i installed my new rear e-brake cable a few months ago, i found that the springs on the ends of it were much too strong and long to be compressed very much at all. so i positioned the clip closer to the center of the spring than near its end. leaving part of the spring in the tube. will the clip work its way up or out of the spring? possibly...i don't know. if it does, i'll fix it i guess.
Click to expand...

The reproduction cables are made with incorrect spring length. The spring length needs to be shortened.
Huey, that's the proper fix...
 
Kube said:
The reproduction cables are made with incorrect spring length. The spring length needs to be shortened.
Huey, that's the proper fix...
Click to expand...

Kube, how did you shorten the springs?

I tried once, cut a coil with a cut off wheel, then tried to "unwind" the excess; but the coils were too tight and the spring wire was unyielding. Gave up and let the excess slide up in the tube. Slid the clip between the coils on the other side.

Saved the original springs from a bad cable and figured I would take the next repop cable to Brake & Equipment and have them cut the ball off one end, switch the springs, and replace the ball. Haven't had the chance to do so, and probably couldn't even find the springs anymore.
 
rich b said:
Kube, how did you shorten the springs?

I tried once, cut a coil with a cut off wheel, then tried to "unwind" the excess; but the coils were too tight and the spring wire was unyielding. Gave up and let the excess slide up in the tube. Slid the clip between the coils on the other side.

Saved the original springs from a bad cable and figured I would take the next repop cable to Brake & Equipment and have them cut the ball off one end, switch the springs, and replace the ball. Haven't had the chance to do so, and probably couldn't even find the springs anymore.
Click to expand...

ya, pretty much my experience too. ...spent a couple of wasted hours trying to remove the excess spring. but failed. and thought...even if i did remove some of it i had no way to determine how much needed to be removed as the original and aftermarket springs had little but their names in common. :)
 
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