Back, with clutch lever problem

[Gino]

Hi, I soldiered through all the battles of finding and installing a new clutch release lever. I have to say I was proud of myself for about 20 minutes. Here’s what I got, when I put the clutch to the floor I can hear and feel something in there hitting like a tapping, say. If I rev the engine the clicking or tapping increases. Otherwise she ran great all through the gears when I test drove her. Thanks for any help.

 

[KULTULZ]

Hey Gino ... ?

Exactly what car are you working on and why do you think a previous repair used the wrong release lever?

PREVIOUS THREAD - https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=308933

EDIT -

Hi, hope I’m not asking an inappropriate question on this forum. Sorry if so. The clutch lever release on my 65 Falcon seams to have come loose. Sorry it is a 6 cylinder 200 ci. Can I reattach without dropping the trany and or bell housing? Thanks I’m not skilled enough to be called a backyard mechanic.

If the bell read C7Z, it is from a 67 MUST 200. Do you have any repair history on the car?

 

[rotorwrench]

The throw out bearing could be having a problem. The throw out bearing starts rotating as soon as it touches the fingers on the pressure plate and doesn't stop till you re-engage the clutch and let off the pedal. In neutral, the transmission input starts to slow down as soon as you disengage the clutch due to the oil in the gearbox slowing the cluster down. The tip of the input starts to freewheel in the pilot bearing so there could be something going on with it. A person would have to check both to be sure.

 

[Gino]

Hi, thanks for responding. The problem started when the clutch pedal would not return back up after stepping on it. I crawled under the car and realized the clutch lever release was very loose. Reluctantly I dropper the trans and bell housing. The lever was only held with one loose rivet. I ordered a Bracket Repair Kit, and performed the repair. When I attached the the existing lever with the throw out bearing I noticed the throw out bearing was not centered. A very nice woman “ Jesica” from Melvin’s sent me pics and specs and we determined which lever was was correct, and so I received it and installed it. Sorry to say I’m a novice and used the existing throw out bearing. The bearing only has about 4000 miles on it, but I sure wish i ordered a new one. Seems to me I’ll be taking it all down again or sell it for scrap. The throw out bearing and or the pilot bearing did not chatter before I replaced the lever, But I know that if anything can go wrong it will. Very nice to have your knowledge here. Thanks

 

[KULTULZ]

The problem started when the clutch pedal would not return back up after stepping on it. I crawled under the car and realized the clutch lever release was very loose. Reluctantly I dropper the trans and bell housing. The lever was only held with one loose rivet. I ordered a Bracket Repair Kit, and performed the repair.

When I attached the the existing lever with the throw out bearing I noticed the throw out bearing was not centered. A very nice woman Jesica from Melvin sent me pics and specs and we determined which lever was was correct, and so I received it and installed it. ...used the existing throw out bearing. The bearing only has about 4000 miles on it, but I sure wish i ordered a new one.

You replaced the clutch lever before trans install and first depress, correct?

It sounds to me the clutch assy is a mis-match (differing year components). Using the clutch as repaired by a shop before may have damaged the TO BRG and/or pressure plate. Your only out is to pull the trans again for a close inspection. Hold the TO BRG hub and spin the actual bearing. Does it spin freely?

But look at how much you are learning ...

 

[rotorwrench]

At this point I'd have to ask if this is a 3.03 toploader 3-speed that was used in the 67/68 time frame on 200 cid 6-cylinder cars or is it something else? If it's a 2.77 from an earlier car then there may be problems due to that or if it is some other transmission. There were subtle variations even from Fairlane to Mustang applications in those years. The bell housing for the 200 six in 67/68 has the late pattern and the older set up has the narrow bolt pattern.

 

[fordor41]

I had a '66 fairlane, 6 cyl, 3 sp that broke the T/O lever rivets. replaced with bolts. happened a couple more times and found out the the trans front brg retainer, that T/O brg slides on, was worn so the T/O brg would hang up instead of sliding towards the clutch. bought a new brg retainer and all was OK.

 

[KULTULZ]

At this point I'd have to ask if this is a 3.03 toploader 3-speed that was used in the 67/68 time frame on 200 cid 6-cylinder cars or is it something else? If it's a 2.77 from an earlier car then there may be problems due to that or if it is some other transmission. There were subtle variations even from Fairlane to Mustang applications in those years. The bell housing for the 200 six in 67/68 has the late pattern and the older set up has the narrow bolt pattern.

I had a '66 fairlane, 6 cyl, 3 sp that broke the T/O lever rivets. replaced with bolts. happened a couple more times and found out the the trans front brg retainer, that T/O brg slides on, was worn so the T/O brg would hang up instead of sliding towards the clutch. bought a new brg retainer and all was OK.

Both very good points.

A very light coat of LUBRIPLATE on the front bearing retainer of the trans where the TO BRG hub slides is also a good idea (IMO)

 

[Gino]

Hi, sorry I have not been checking in as of late. All good ideas, thanks. At this point the rattling is not happening all the time and only when I push the clutch peddle all the way to the floor hard. My plan is to wait till something gives ( you know, breaks) and then I’ll make changes. The car is fun to drive And other than the paint she looks great, I’ll keep her running no matter. I will put a 302 in her if need be as I’m having challenges with the autolite single barrel carb as well. Thanks very much, all the help here has helped greatly.