I am trying to take the rear drums off my 1930 model A. Took rears off my other model A with no problem but on this model A they won't come off-- I've tried prying and heated them little but no help. I've searched high and low for a puller but no luck. It says you might need a rear hub puller but shows pulling the hub after drum is off -- which brings me back to my original problem of getting the drum off. I loosened the brake by turning the knob assembly on back of the drum assembly- one turns good the other side not so much. Anyone have any ideas?? Thanks!
Back brake drums stuck on
- Thread starter Eskildsm
- Start date
Jacksonlll
Well-known member
Turn the adjuster counterclockwise no matter how much torque it takes. You won't break anything except you knuckles. It has to unscrew toward centerline of car.
You do need a hub puller. Borrow one. They are around. Find model a club near you and check with them.
You do need a hub puller. Borrow one. They are around. Find model a club near you and check with them.
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
Take it to someone that knows how to take the hub and drum apart and has the tools. A big hammer will just cause damage.
Charlie Stephens
Big hammer
Well-known member
Not necessarily 
I agree with Charlie. You need a proper hub puller to remove them... and it is certainly worth you time and money if there is someone nearby that speaks Model A or Early Flathead V8.. the KR Wilson hub puller is the best.. but if you have early 28 style hubs it won't work. There are some hub pullers from brattons or snyders antique auto parts that are current production pieces that will do the job. Be very careful in removing as you don't want to ruin an axle and threads that could cause you much more grief.
Trust me.. I do service work and have rebuilt countless rear axles. The proper process is key to getting it off.
Larry Shepard
Re: Back brake drums stuck on- How axle threads get damaged
One way that axle threads get damaged in the first place:
Posted on FB 4 years ago:
02-24-2013, 02:07 PM
#10 Benson
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,205
Re: Rear axle thread stripped-One cause of this ...
For the benefit of others who may not know this:
One cause of stripped axle threads is described below:
It is common to see the first 1/2 inch of axle threads stripped.
I hear folks telling people that this is the way to remove rear brake drums... this method only damages the axle threads.
One thing that causes the damage is that some one loosens the castle axle nut a couple of turns and hammers on the nut in an attempt to remove the hub/brake drum instead of using the correct tool.
As the axle nut is hammered the "castle nut" is deformed on top.
Now when the nut is threaded on the next axle shaft, the nut threads on 1/2 way then binds up when the smashed part of the nut starts to thread on the shaft.
Some folks do not stop at this point ... they just use a longer wrench to force the damaged nut on ... stripping the first 1/2 inch of the threads.
This is a good reason to avoid the use of an impact wrench to tighten things.
So if you find a nut that goes on nice 1/2 way then bends up, STOP and find a nut that is not damaged and destroy the damaged nut.
NOTE: (If you must use the "hammer on the axle nut" method then remove the nut, turn it around and thread it on with the "castle" toward the inside.)
This practice STILL DAMAGES the axle threads ... just not a bad as the first method.
I wonder how many times someone drops an axle nut and it rolls under the bench.
"Oh I have one in the can over there". If someone has hammered on this nut and you force it on the axle with a big pipe or impact wrench then the first 1/2 inch of threads on the axle will be damaged.
Over the last 55 years I have seen MANY axles in the parts piles with this damage!
The same thing applies to camshaft gear removal only there is no castle nut involved the threads are still damaged by hammering on the nut.
Last edited by Benson; 02-24-2013 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Correct several typos
One way that axle threads get damaged in the first place:
Posted on FB 4 years ago:
02-24-2013, 02:07 PM
#10 Benson
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,205
For the benefit of others who may not know this:
One cause of stripped axle threads is described below:
It is common to see the first 1/2 inch of axle threads stripped.
I hear folks telling people that this is the way to remove rear brake drums... this method only damages the axle threads.
One thing that causes the damage is that some one loosens the castle axle nut a couple of turns and hammers on the nut in an attempt to remove the hub/brake drum instead of using the correct tool.
As the axle nut is hammered the "castle nut" is deformed on top.
Now when the nut is threaded on the next axle shaft, the nut threads on 1/2 way then binds up when the smashed part of the nut starts to thread on the shaft.
Some folks do not stop at this point ... they just use a longer wrench to force the damaged nut on ... stripping the first 1/2 inch of the threads.
This is a good reason to avoid the use of an impact wrench to tighten things.
So if you find a nut that goes on nice 1/2 way then bends up, STOP and find a nut that is not damaged and destroy the damaged nut.
NOTE: (If you must use the "hammer on the axle nut" method then remove the nut, turn it around and thread it on with the "castle" toward the inside.)
This practice STILL DAMAGES the axle threads ... just not a bad as the first method.
I wonder how many times someone drops an axle nut and it rolls under the bench.
"Oh I have one in the can over there". If someone has hammered on this nut and you force it on the axle with a big pipe or impact wrench then the first 1/2 inch of threads on the axle will be damaged.
Over the last 55 years I have seen MANY axles in the parts piles with this damage!
The same thing applies to camshaft gear removal only there is no castle nut involved the threads are still damaged by hammering on the nut.
Last edited by Benson; 02-24-2013 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Correct several typos
Last edited:
Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to try to find someone in town that will pull the back drums for me -- small town so not sure I will find someone and if not then I will order a puller online and try to pull myself then may have more questions after that. Does anyone have any tricks to loosen the adjustment knob on the back side of hub-- 1 turns and clicks fine the other one will turn about 1/2 turn but no clicks then freezes up.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I haven't tried this method, but have heard others have good luck by loosening the axle nut a turn or two, then drive a short distance, and the hub will come loose. If it comes loose then be careful about applying engine torque or you may damage the keyway.
I doubt that this will be the only time that you need to pull a drum.
I recently purchased this puller and it worked great.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/economy-hub-puller
I recently purchased this puller and it worked great.
http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/economy-hub-puller
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
As Tom said in post 13 you can try that but you have to ask yourself... is it worth the fact of possibly ruining an axle... or having a wheel/drum come off while moving?
I would invest in a quality hub puller. since you are out west I would call Steve at Berts Model A Center Denver area. He can direct you to what he stocks and recommends. There are several. My favor is for the heavier universal type that is closer to $95 each or the KR Wilson which is more like $150. The axle thread protection is paramount. The cost of an axle and replacing it is much greater than the cost of the proper puller. Do yourself a favor and get the right tool.
Being too cheap is unwise. Now... having said that and as I said in my previous post if you can recruit someone schooled in Model A or Flathead V8 who has the proper tool and knows how to use it you may be best served with that.
Get on the V8 forum as well and see if there's anyone in your area.
Larry Shepard
I would invest in a quality hub puller. since you are out west I would call Steve at Berts Model A Center Denver area. He can direct you to what he stocks and recommends. There are several. My favor is for the heavier universal type that is closer to $95 each or the KR Wilson which is more like $150. The axle thread protection is paramount. The cost of an axle and replacing it is much greater than the cost of the proper puller. Do yourself a favor and get the right tool.
Being too cheap is unwise. Now... having said that and as I said in my previous post if you can recruit someone schooled in Model A or Flathead V8 who has the proper tool and knows how to use it you may be best served with that.
Get on the V8 forum as well and see if there's anyone in your area.
Larry Shepard
Boston Bruce
Senior Member
Here is one type of puller.
http://www.vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/
I have no idea how well this works but I do know that this won't be the only time you have to pull off the rear drums. Get the right tool and don't screw around.
http://www.vintageprecision.com/products/hub_pullers/
I have no idea how well this works but I do know that this won't be the only time you have to pull off the rear drums. Get the right tool and don't screw around.