Babbitt ridge on mains

Henry's Lady's Man

Henry's Lady's Man

Senior Member
I have my block torn down, and the babbitt looks great: plastigauge gave me readings of .0015 and .0020, and I am more than pleased, since I was expecting the worst.

question: There is a ridge of babbitt sticking up from the flat block just a little; not as thick as the shims, so it never wore down (or is it a ridge that was built up from friction?)

My fear is that it is protruding from the flat block surface enough, that when a machine shop goes to bore my cylinders, he'll (or she'll- gotta be fair) have to set the block on a smooth surface; and if the babbitt ridge is the high spot on the bottom of the block, it will catch on something and chip out some good babbit. Is this a legitimate concern? Can I file or sand the babbit smooth, eliminating the ridge? It is an uneven ridge, and seems to serve no purpose. I'm new at this. All opinions welcome.
 

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There is a concern. You can file it flush with the block or bolt some wood to the bottom of the block to raise it off the surface.
 
You may have 0.0015 - 0.002 at the apex with plastigage but that does not tell the whole story. Plastic deformation at the parting is a sign of excentric rotation of the crank journal. This may be due to dynamic flex from a non-counterweighted crank, out of round journals, or simply a bent crank centerline.

Check the crank first. If OK and you had a few thousanths of shims left then you could probably save the babbitt. Knock off the extruded material with a flat single cut mill file. Tell the machine shop not to hot caustic tank or wash the block. That would eat the babbitt.
 
Thanks for the good tips on the babbitt, guys.

I have only to get the head studs out of the block. NONE of them are budging at all. I double nutted them, bolt was twisting, and scared to bust it off. Tried pipe wrench too... just gouging the studs. I will try an impact hammer drill, then maybe some heat o the block. I've soaked them in kroil for a week. No luck.
 
Henry's Lady's Man said:
Thanks for the good tips on the babbitt, guys.

I have only to get the head studs out of the block. NONE of them are budging at all. I double nutted them, bolt was twisting, and scared to bust it off. Tried pipe wrench too... just gouging the studs. I will try an impact hammer drill, then maybe some heat o the block. I've soaked them in kroil for a week. No luck.
Click to expand...

Suggestions to help you shift those stubborn studs:
Heat the studs close to the block, not the block itself with an oxy torch till red, then allow to cool before trying again.
While applying pressure to the stud, give it a decent whack on the top. The shock will often break it free.
Buy yourself a stud removing tool - much better than double nutting.
Hope this helps and Good Luck.
 
Synchro909 said:
Suggestions to help you shift those stubborn studs:
Heat the studs close to the block, not the block itself with an oxy torch till red, then allow to cool before trying again.
While applying pressure to the stud, give it a decent whack on the top. The shock will often break it free.
Buy yourself a stud removing tool - much better than double nutting.
Hope this helps and Good Luck.
Click to expand...
Thanx Sync, I will look for stud removing tool on ebay. It may be cheaper than paying a machine shop... labor intensive... and I could resell it.
Also, I DID consider heating the studs, but haven't tried that yet. Although it is counter-intuitive, It is a faster way to get a temperature difference way down deep; something to break where it is frozen. I even thought of following that with an ice water sandwich baggy held on stud for a bit, just before cranking on it.
 
MikeK said:
You may have 0.0015 - 0.002 at the apex with plastigage but that does not tell the whole story. Plastic deformation at the parting is a sign of excentric rotation of the crank journal. This may be due to dynamic flex from a non-counterweighted crank, out of round journals, or simply a bent crank centerline.

Check the crank first. If OK and you had a few thousanths of shims left then you could probably save the babbitt. Knock off the extruded material with a flat single cut mill file. Tell the machine shop not to hot caustic tank or wash the block. That would eat the babbitt.
Click to expand...
I will probably have the crank checked. But really, things looked so good, I am tempted to put it back in, just as it is.
It was the top end that caused me to tear it all down, not knowing what to expect. It started with water in the oil and a head gasket job. The exhaust valves and split guides were burnt, and worn, so I had to go deeper.
 
Synchro909 said:
Suggestions to help you shift those stubborn studs:
Heat the studs close to the block, not the block itself with an oxy torch till red, then allow to cool before trying again.
While applying pressure to the stud, give it a decent whack on the top. The shock will often break it free.
Buy yourself a stud removing tool - much better than double nutting.
Hope this helps and Good Luck.
Click to expand...

There are several types of stud pullers. Some are offset, so you are putting a sideways load on the stud- not good. Snap-On (and probably others) makes a two-piece, on center remover with a collet that pinches tightly on the stud threads to apply an even force. Rather expensive, though.
 
Clean off what ever solvent you used on the studs, it has probably done its thing by now.
Heat the studs and the block around the studs with a propane type torch with Map gas
cylinder on it. Don't get it red hot but get it plenty hot get ready with your stud remover
and squirt the bottom the the stud and block with water, yes water.
The stud will come out with the stud remover. Don't crank hard enough to break the
stud off. If it doesn't come out the first time, do it over again they will come out.

Dodge
 
40 Deluxe said:
There are several types of stud pullers. Some are offset, so you are putting a sideways load on the stud- not good. Snap-On (and probably others) makes a two-piece, on center remover with a collet that pinches tightly on the stud threads to apply an even force. Rather expensive, though.
Click to expand...
40 Deluxe - I JUST ordered this. It is not offset, and didn't cost all that much. We'll see how it works.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Titan-Stud-...463238?hash=item566e1b3106:g:K7gAAOSwe-FU7gbu
 
Dodge said:
Clean off what ever solvent you used on the studs, it has probably done its thing by now.
Heat the studs and the block around the studs with a propane type torch with Map gas
cylinder on it. Don't get it red hot but get it plenty hot get ready with your stud remover
and squirt the bottom the the stud and block with water, yes water.
The stud will come out with the stud remover. Don't crank hard enough to break the
stud off. If it doesn't come out the first time, do it over again they will come out.

Dodge
Click to expand...
Dodge - I will try the Titan (I refered to above) stud puller. I'll try what you suggested. It's small; hope I don't burn my arse!
 
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