Babbit clearancing

IMO, .001" is too tight. I'm a racer and set all my clearances at .002" minimum. Too loose is better than too tight!

.002" is twice what Henry intended and asking for bearings to be pounded to death. I pour babbitt and i always set them at .001" since if it's too loose it allows the crank to vibrate in the bearings, causing wear. it's best to run em tight and run em slow. if you rev the engine past 2300 on stock lead babbitt you are asking for trouble. if you got 4x nickel it can handle a bit more but best to drive em as Henry intended
 
I am never going to work on bearings from under a vehicle again.And I have a lift to make it easier too.Upside down,looking down.I rolled bearings into Caterpillar,Cummins,Mack,and Detroit engines laying on my back for over 40 years.Never going to fight the oil dripping into my face again.I've always felt that that 64 pound flywheel hanging on the rear throws the rear main adjustment off.I've had the best luck using the tin foil method.Just check every piece before you put it under the cap.They are pretty much .001 thick,but have found some old american made foil to be a little thicker.Dollar store store foil works just fine.

Keith, are you saying that you use tin foil instead of brass shims?
 
Yes,tinfoil for checking,not as shims.Tinfoil is generally .001 thick.(check each piece as you use it)Some brands are thicker,or not consistant.If the crank will turn with two layers,the clearance is too much.If the crank will turn with one layer,but binds up with two,then the clearance is between .001 and .002.Turned out to be a much more accurate method of doing than I thought it would be.
 
Back
Top