B engine in model A

History

History

Well-known member
Decided to put the B engine in instead of messing with an A engine that needs more than I’m ready to do at the moment. I took the pan off the B engine yesterday and inspected it and it seems much tighter than the A. I have a few questions and I have used the search function and it was helpful but I’m still not sure.

I plan on using my A head so I can use my new leakless water pump as the B water pump looks in need of a rebuild. The head on the B engine now has a C on it, is that significant? Is there any reason why I should not use the A head?

I am going to use the clutch housing off my A so everything will work with the A and it will use the rear engine mounts.

Do I need to put the timing cover off the A on the B engine? If so why?

I understand I need to trim the oil pan on the B to accept the clutch housing.

I plan on using the A distributor .

Will my A starter work on the B flywheel?

Will the B Flywheel fit in the A clutch housing? It had a new clutch pressure plate so I’d like to use that.

I need to change head studs to accept the A water pump/head.

I’d like to seal up the transmission while I’m there, does anyone know exactly what I need there?

There is a fuel pump but no lobe or anything touching the pump arm so I’ll take it off.


If you can think of anything I need to do that I’ve not mentioned I’d appreciate the tip. I wish the forum had stickies to answer redundant question as I know it gets old for you guys answering the same questions over and over. Thanks for any help you can give and all the help youve already given!
 

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All you need to do is to trim off the rear portion of the pan. Use your A flywheel housing. The B flywheel will work with the A starter. Take off the fuel pump and block off the hole. As "History" stated use the A front cover if you are using the A distributor.

You have the Late B engine with a counterweighted crank which is a good thing.
It will be much smoother. The A clutch components will work with the B flywheel.

The major leak in the transmission is usually in the rear where the ends of the countershaft and the reverse idler shaft are exposed. They make a seal kit for this. it is easy to install.

Chris W.
 
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The B head with the C on it is a higher compression than the A. I would use the head that came on the engine for the extra horse power.MTCW
 
garyjohn said:
The B head with the C on it is a higher compression than the A. I would use the head that came on the engine for the extra horse power.MTCW
Click to expand...

Or buy a modern Model A high compression head. Maybe 6-1 would be nice. Use what you have A or B until things are up and running well.
 
FORD had a high compression head for the Model A. It was frequently called the "Police" head as that was the original intended usage. It was identified with the block letter B cast into the top surface. When the '32 came out they just used the next letter which was "C" and that is why there is a "C" on the head.

If you use the Model A head there a couple of holes in the block that need to be plugged to prevent water leakage. These holes are highlighted in the attached photo of a Model B head. The holes you need to plug are the corresponding holes in the block.


Charlie Stephens
 

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I may have to ride shotgun with you and call out turns and braking points. It looks like the B engine has sat for many moons and condensation formed inside the engine and the cylinders 2-3 will probably have to at least be honed but probably bored, Just my luck. I’ll be checking the bearings when I pull the pistons. It was supposed to have been a rebuild and it’s possible but was definitely ran some before sitting as carbon was built up. I’ll have it checked out by someone who knows what they’re doing and probably try to make it right.


I worked on the A main cap some and hoped it would help the leak but no luck, still pretty bad.
 
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