B carb

Ya know, on a more modern car (like something from the 70s) I was always taught that the air fuel mixture screws do zero when the car is running down the road.

After adding that O-ring, I wonder how much turning of that screw it takes to maximize the idle performance. Pretty interesting.

I see the gross-jet that would be controlled by the float. I have heard that you need to pull that in favor of the traditional needle and seat if you want maximum performance with a B carb on the top-end.
 
I run a B carburetor and it idles great and I think Renner's had me add the O-ring. David also machined the carburetor to allow for the use of an air-filter. Lol When I bought the air filter I did not realize I had a B-carburetor instead of an A so the air filter housing had to be machined to fit the B carb. I had the carburetor apart several times before I got it right but now it purrs like a Model A.
 
Gene, thanks for that info on the grose jet, I will replace it.
Lawrie
 
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Ya know, on a more modern car (like something from the 70s) I was always taught that the air fuel mixture screws do zero when the car is running down the road.

After adding that O-ring, I wonder how much turning of that screw it takes to maximize the idle performance. Pretty interesting.

I see the gross-jet that would be controlled by the float. I have heard that you need to pull that in favor of the traditional needle and seat if you want maximum performance with a B carb on the top-end.

Is there a source for those valves? Snyders only have the Viton tipped ones.
 
I see the gross-jet that would be controlled by the float. I have heard that you need to pull that in favor of the traditional needle and seat if you want maximum performance with a B carb on the top-end.

I have never had a problem with fuel flow through the gross-jet ball style float valves. Mine can keep up with fuel demand just fine.

Where did you get this caution?
 
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