Axle Question

Baypac

Baypac

Member
I am thinking of replacing my front axle. The spring shackles wore out a pretty deep notch in its early days.

I purchased an axle a number of years ago on e-Bay. As I was inspecting it, I noticed unusual galling on the bottom of the spindle bolt holes. Several questions:

1. Any ideas how this wear pattern happens?

2. Is it useable? If so, should I build up the surface or just remove the rough area and use extra shims.
3. The axle was heated to remove the spring perches. See picture below--heat was only applied to one side of the axle. Is that a problem?


Thanks,

Jack

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yi8c5wolbqkiygm/Galled area.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/csx1g7a4u4q4s1h/Heated area.JPG?dl=0
 
Last edited:
Heating to remove the spring perches is not a problem, but the egg shaped king pin holes are toast. For what it would take to rework the king pin holes, go find a better axle to use. At one time, the king pin apparently got loose and with movement, hammered its hole egg shaped. My '46 Ford pick up had the same king pin hole problem and I tried to weld it up. The fix didn't last and the problem returned.
 
Thanks, The wear pattern is the same on both sides. I thought maybe they tried to reverse the axle for another application like a trailer?
 
Last edited:
Now that I know that I have a boat anchor, does anyone have a decent axle they would like to sell?

Thanks,

Jack
 
How does a kingpin fit into the holes?Is it nice and tight? Are the holes really wallowed out like they look in the picture?Or,is that just an optical illusion from the camera.The roughness on the bottom is really nothing,it got worn that way when the thrust bearing wore out and the spindle rode on the axle.Nothing is supposed to ride there except a piece of felt and a cupped washer to keep the dirt out.
 
Thanks, Keith.

I am on a work trip for a couple of weeks and will check the king pin fit when I am back home. The rest of the axle looks good. It is straight, and the spring perch holes are very clean. There is only a small amount of the axle wallowed out below the hanger.

I will let you know what I find about the king pin fit.
 
When my brother and i were checking and straightening front axle for his car we found tha axles that had been heated red moved with 1/2 the force unmolested axles did--- ford was serious about metal, heat treating---- every axle got a brinell hardness test-- so did spindles, steering arms, crankshafts, there will be a little grind mark with a small depression from the test
 
If you think your axle is straight, then take it to a machine shop and have the wallered out holes sleeved. You will have to provide them with the exact hole sizes. If your axle is not straight, then you should get that done first before bushing the holes. There is a great article by Wiley Higgins in one of the How to Restore volumes about the degree specs for the kingpins and what they should be. Every axle I have ever bought has had to be tweeked in some fashion before use. Good hunting for one, but consider restoring your own.
 
With all the old junk axles I've taken apart,I haven't seen too many bent at the perches or pins.Most of the bad ones were bent backwards from hitting things from the front.I've gotten a couple dozen over the years from utility trailers.I think most axles have been heated over the years,when working in a front end shop with the customer waiting you grab the rosebud torch and have at it.I was the youngest guy in the shop that did a lot of Ford twin I beam kingpins,I was 130 pounds of rosebud torch and 16 pound sledge.While I realize there has to be some weakening from heating,I remember what the shop owner told me.He said it's kind of like two guys arguing over the strength of a bolt.One has 12000 LBS of strength,and the other has 6000. But,they really only need 1000,so how important is it?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top