Axle coupler pin staking

T

Tubby

Senior Member
I am looking for the proper procedure for fixing the pin in the coupler mating the pinion shaft to the driveshaft on my 39. I have read that this is done by staking the coupler around the pin. But when I removed the pin, the pin had been peened over the coupler.
Which technique is correct?
 
10 years ago I replaced one pin with a 1/4-28 nut and bolt. I applied a thin layer of solder over the shank of the bolt, tapped it through the hole so it was a very tight fit all around
(unlike the replacement) , installed the nut with Locktite and peened the end of the bolt over the nut. So far so, good.

The reason I did this was because I didn't think it would be possible to swedge the replacement pin sufficiently so it would expand and tightly fill the hole. The excess solder was sheared off filling the hole when the bolt was hammered into position.

The red thing is a seal to prevent rear end fluid from draining down the torque tube to the torque tube center bearing.
 

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Caution about pinion bearing taking hammer load. I put an anvil under the pin when hammer swedging it. Newc - When peaning or hammering the pin watch your bearing load. Newc
 
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The longevity of the pin depends on the fit of the splines. Any play in the splines will cause the pin to fatigue and break. If we are talking a modified (normally shortened) torque tube and driveshaft then any misalignment will also fatigue the pin and cause it to break. I tend to take precautions against breakage by putting a good hose clamp around the connector covering the ends of the pin. I then fit a second one nearby 180 degrees out to maintain balance. If the pin breaks at least it will remain in place. On my roadster I used a good quality Allen bolt and locking nut. After a while I developed an awful screaching noise. It turned out the bolt had broke and the head of the bolt was rubbing on the inside of the torque tube. It was after this that I paid a lot more attention to alignment and started using the hose clamps. (Jubilee clips). I have shown these clips and alignment techniques in various videos. (Mart's Garage on YouTube).
Mart.
 
There's also an aftermarket safety deal, a strap goes halfway around the shaft. Holes are in both ends for the pin to go thru the pin is peened on the out side, Thusly, if the pin is sheered, the strap holes the parts of the pin from getting out.

Karl
 
Karl Wolf said:
There's also an aftermarket safety deal, a strap goes halfway around the shaft. Holes are in both ends for the pin to go thru the pin is peened on the out side, Thusly, if the pin is sheered, the strap holes the parts of the pin from getting out.

Karl
Click to expand...

432732
 
Be careful on peeing over not to keep going too long smacking at it as it will just weaken the head. Also a pic showing the heat shrink sleeve I use.
 

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hose clamp/jubilee clip yeh it will hold it but it would induce a wicked vibration as it spun be like sticking wheel weights to a tail shaft
 
I like the heatshrink tubing idea. Can anyone feed back on how it holds up after many years in use?
Mart.
 
Yeah Mart, it’s permanent. If you ever need to remove it, you’ll need to cut it off. Not only does it shrink into place, it glues itself too.
 
What a great tutorial ! This information cannot be found in a repair manual. Preserved on this site for folks long after most of us are gone. I am always amazed and appreciative of the sharing of knowledge from all of the FordBarn gurus! No question goes unanswered!
 
34fordy said:
What a great tutorial ! This information cannot be found in a repair manual. Preserved on this site for folks long after most of us are gone. I am always amazed and appreciative of the sharing of knowledge from all of the FordBarn gurus! No question goes unanswered!
Click to expand...

No question? OK then, how much longer am I going to be here to enjoy it? 🤔
 
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