Mark from Australia
Senior Member
- City
- Melbourne
- State
- Victoria
- Price
- $75 up
Save me from my Hot Rod ADD Sale
I really need to stick to the one project, and get it done BEFORE I collect parts for any future project. That means two things: 1. Stop changing my mind (the ADD part), and 2. Finish the one car I have since Adam was a pup.
So here goes:
Firstly: I have an original Aussie-built Model A rolling frame. Has run in the last couple of years.
It’s a complete roller right down to the throttle linkage, except for the hand-brake handle. Sell it outright for what it owes me, $3500, or with these options:
OPTION 1:
Rolling frame as above plus a spare early-28 motor, a lightened flywheel, a AA-Bell-housing and a T5 adapter plate, made by Extreme Engineering in the US (See Hot Rod Deluxe Model A issue), 46-48 rear radius rods – much stronger than model A –for use in open tail-shaft conversion. $4500 all up. I do have a “B” cam on its way from the U.S. for this setup (included). Extreme Engineering also sells the S10 4x4 adapter to run this gearbox in the torque-tube.
OPTION 2:
Rolling Frame as above, plus OPTION 1 plus a Pilot front axle (same as 33-36 Ford but has 2 extra holes) lowers a model A my at least 1”, a ’36 front wishbone (split), and a full set of early Ford Hydraulic brakes, and a pair of 48 stubs. These later brakes will bolt up to the Model A rear, but the Model a stubs require work to the backing plates and adapter rinds, hence the 48 stubs. $5500.
OPTION 3:
Rolling Frame as above, plus OPTION 1 and OPTION 2 plus a steel 28-29 roadster pickup body. Channelled steel body, 32 style firewall, ’40 dash, 32 folding windscreen posts, burst-proof door locks, new pickup bed, no tailgate. Add $4000 to any of the above options. This is for the body only, no chassis or running gear
OPTION 4
Rolling Frame as above, plus OPTION 1 and OPTION 2 plus a steel 28-29 coupe body. This body has been stripped down to the floor frame, all surfaces media blasted, rust protected, panels repaired, and reassembled. It was then steeled out, including seat-belt mounts. The roof was filled, but will still accept a vinyl covering. Rear of floor stepped 3”. ‘Glass Boot lid hinged. Good Right-Hand Drive Fuel Tank. Fitted with ’48 Chev taillights, all window surrounds included. Add $12,000 to any of the above options.
For Sale outright:
1936 Ford Rear end. 4.11 ratio, 10 spine pinion, no brakes, Full length ’36 rear wishbones. 3.78 OPEN TAILSHAFT Banjo centre. No torque-tube. This ratio is extremely rare, as Australian utes were fitted with 4.11 gears. Will not separate. $1000
Convert your car to manual: SBC Aluminium manual bell-housing, Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate,, and flywheel bolts. $350
1937 Chev Steering box, includes steering wheel and pitman arm. Convert you LHD stocker to Rhd, good condition. $125.
HQ Steering Box – removed from a good runner about 15 years ago. $75
37 pedal setup, Right Hand Drive. As removed from a good runner. $75
Contact by PM or 0478414100
I really need to stick to the one project, and get it done BEFORE I collect parts for any future project. That means two things: 1. Stop changing my mind (the ADD part), and 2. Finish the one car I have since Adam was a pup.
So here goes:
Firstly: I have an original Aussie-built Model A rolling frame. Has run in the last couple of years.
It’s a complete roller right down to the throttle linkage, except for the hand-brake handle. Sell it outright for what it owes me, $3500, or with these options:
OPTION 1:
Rolling frame as above plus a spare early-28 motor, a lightened flywheel, a AA-Bell-housing and a T5 adapter plate, made by Extreme Engineering in the US (See Hot Rod Deluxe Model A issue), 46-48 rear radius rods – much stronger than model A –for use in open tail-shaft conversion. $4500 all up. I do have a “B” cam on its way from the U.S. for this setup (included). Extreme Engineering also sells the S10 4x4 adapter to run this gearbox in the torque-tube.
OPTION 2:
Rolling Frame as above, plus OPTION 1 plus a Pilot front axle (same as 33-36 Ford but has 2 extra holes) lowers a model A my at least 1”, a ’36 front wishbone (split), and a full set of early Ford Hydraulic brakes, and a pair of 48 stubs. These later brakes will bolt up to the Model A rear, but the Model a stubs require work to the backing plates and adapter rinds, hence the 48 stubs. $5500.
OPTION 3:
Rolling Frame as above, plus OPTION 1 and OPTION 2 plus a steel 28-29 roadster pickup body. Channelled steel body, 32 style firewall, ’40 dash, 32 folding windscreen posts, burst-proof door locks, new pickup bed, no tailgate. Add $4000 to any of the above options. This is for the body only, no chassis or running gear
OPTION 4
Rolling Frame as above, plus OPTION 1 and OPTION 2 plus a steel 28-29 coupe body. This body has been stripped down to the floor frame, all surfaces media blasted, rust protected, panels repaired, and reassembled. It was then steeled out, including seat-belt mounts. The roof was filled, but will still accept a vinyl covering. Rear of floor stepped 3”. ‘Glass Boot lid hinged. Good Right-Hand Drive Fuel Tank. Fitted with ’48 Chev taillights, all window surrounds included. Add $12,000 to any of the above options.
For Sale outright:
1936 Ford Rear end. 4.11 ratio, 10 spine pinion, no brakes, Full length ’36 rear wishbones. 3.78 OPEN TAILSHAFT Banjo centre. No torque-tube. This ratio is extremely rare, as Australian utes were fitted with 4.11 gears. Will not separate. $1000
Convert your car to manual: SBC Aluminium manual bell-housing, Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate,, and flywheel bolts. $350
1937 Chev Steering box, includes steering wheel and pitman arm. Convert you LHD stocker to Rhd, good condition. $125.
HQ Steering Box – removed from a good runner about 15 years ago. $75
37 pedal setup, Right Hand Drive. As removed from a good runner. $75
Contact by PM or 0478414100