Assembly - fan to water pump

The impeller is pressed on - that would be a good solution to move the impeller a little bit to gain room on the other fan end. Thanks for all the great advice. I forgot about the importance of the pulley alignment for the belt. Will have to wait until I get the head back on the block, will post about the final outcome.
Merry Christmas and happy Holidays to all.
 
You should definitely NOT grind on the I.D. of the aluminum fan. The fan needs that extra material there to properly support the edges of the belt groove. The I.D. of the aluminum fan has to be smaller to adequately support he fan belt groove edges. This is why there is some clearance issues with water pumps. Instructions are included with every aluminum fan blade that is sent out. The snout of the pump is where any grinding should be done for clearance.
 
Did you check for proper clearance of the impeller end of the shaft in the cylinder head?
 
While it's not the answer to your problem,1/8 is too much.If you bolt the pump tp the head,with no gasket,the end of the shaft should be just touching the wear pad in the head.Not binding,but maybe hear it touch when you spin it.When installed with the gasket it should give you the .010 end play you should have.You have to be absolutely sure the teardrop washer is in it's position,not riding up on it's holding notch.If you bought a new shaft,thrust washer, and rear bushing from Snyders the fan pulley will be in the correct position.
 
In a lot of cases the partition in the head is worn. Is there room to put a collar behind the
fan on the front of the pump shaft when using the aluminum repro fan blade ?
 
Thanks Keith, will check the measurements again and if I need to bring it back some, maybe I can use a teflon flat washer that is included with the spacer (which I don't need!). The partition in the head is worn a little bit, maybe 1/32nd.

Mr Rutter, if I use the collar behind the fan there is not enough room on the threaded part of the shaft for the end nut to screw in deep enough for the cotter pin hole.

Yes, these are all Snyder's parts. Another original old rusted and cracked 2 blade fan I have does fit with no problem. I think I have to play with grinding the cast housing and stealing 1/16th inch on each side of the casting.

Thanks for everyone's helpful comments.
Don
 
You put the collar ahead of the packing nut.Pull the shaft toward the front,then slide the collar back so it touches the packing nut,and tighten the set screw.Use never-seize on the set screw,and just tighten it lightly.You do not have to reef on it,it is just to keep the collar from moving.I don't know what the spacer is that you are talking about,or the teflon washer.
 
Just reinstalled the Aluminum fan from AZ Model A's yesterday. The older fan had started wobbling. New one fit the Stainless Steel shaft of the updated water pump and did not hit the pump casting. Do not forget to seat the fan on the shaft per instructions to hit the back of the water pump shaft on something hard to bring the fan tight against the shaft and put the washer in front of the fan before installing the castellated nut. Again as others have stated, do not modify the fan, remove material from the water pump casting, as it is beefy.
 
Thanks to all for your comments and suggestions. I ground down the pump housing casting where it was a bit oblong. I placed the spacer with Allen set screw between the fan and the casting end to stop the fan from traveling back to hot the casting where the grease fitting is. I have very slight horizontal play so I'll test it on the head as Keith mentioned.
 
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