Armoured cable repair

Pinesdune

Pinesdune

Senior Member
Hi folks, finally spring like up here in the north so getting the last bug or two out of my car before hitting the road. I had an intermittent electroloc connection issue to figure out. So after tracing it to the connection between the armoured cable and the head I found the wire moves inside the cable about 1/4" or so

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I'm going to pull the cable apart and install a new wire, but what should I do to make the black insulator stay firmly in place , epoxy?, make a new insulator that fits tight?
Is it rubber or Bakelite ? (80 year old rubber can go as hard as Bakelite)
And lastly the restorer section on the elctroloc says to use "fine" strand wire, why wouldn't standard 14 gauge auto wire work here, just curious about this.
Thanks in advance


Saving iron from the scrap pile one piece at a time
 
that is the early cable used up to mid 30. they are not that easy to take apart, the original insulators are Bakelite and some replacements are nylon or plastic. there is a spacer right behind that end connector made of the same material they are both real critical or the cable will should out. it looks to me that the spacer is not holding the connector out where it should be. or someone has stretched the cable out.
 
Fine strand wire is also known as high flex wire - standard ol 14 gauge wire will eventually break internally as its not meant to be flexed/vibrated all day.
 
Epoxy is what I'd use to hold the Bakelite in place.
The wire is inside a steel cable and also has another bare wire running alongside it.
They are a pain to replace the inside wire. Use a Dremel with a pointed diamond grindstone to remove the upsets holding the Bakelite in place.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
"Maybe" a NEW cable is in order???
Bill Safe
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It's actually a banana cable, might be worth contacting Mr. Crabtree (hope I spelled it right) , darn shipping will cost more than the repair. I'll get it out of the car and on the bench and see how it progresses.

Thanks for the tip Tom, dremel it is.

And would 14 gauge speaker wire work? Or wrong type of insulating coating?


Saving iron from the scrap pile one piece at a time
 
Pinesdune said:
It's actually a banana cable, might be worth contacting Mr. Crabtree (hope I spelled it right) , darn shipping will cost more than the repair. I'll get it out of the car and on the bench and see how it progresses.

Thanks for the tip Tom, dremel it is.

And would 14 gauge speaker wire work? Or wrong type of insulating coating?


Saving iron from the scrap pile one piece at a time
Click to expand...

probably not - speaker wire insulation is rather flimsy and does not withstand abrasion very well. The wire type would be correct but insulation is not...
 
SeaSlugs said:
probably not - speaker wire insulation is rather flimsy and does not withstand abrasion very well. The wire type would be correct but insulation is not...
Click to expand...



Ok, I wondered, local auto parts store had no clue when I called, might have to head in and grab their suppliers books and look it up myself haha (yes, they're used to me doing that [emoji6])

It's apart with no disasters, I'm guessing the outer spring is stretched a hair.


Saving iron from the scrap pile one piece at a time
 
I would go to an electrical supply store and ask for high flex wire... We used it all the time on robot welder applications at work. Standard old THHN would break after a month - high flex lasted at least 6 months.
 
I got it apart and repaired without issue, and gave her a ten mile "test" run, thanks for the help guys.


Saving iron from the scrap pile one piece at a time
 
SeaSlugs said:
FYI JB weld is conductive so dont use that...
Click to expand...

I do not know where that rumor got started, I hear it from a lot of people, but it is completely wrong.
Quote from the J B Weld website

Will J-B Weld conduct electricity?
No. J-B Weld is not considered to be a conductor. It is an insulator.
 
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