Armored ignition switches

Arthur1958

Junior Member
I have a question about armored ignition switches.

My generic switch (no armor) broke, but I had three armored switches among my spare parts. Each is the common replacement version, like the 1931 Electrolock but without the pop-out feature. I checked their continuity and all tested fine. Installed, each displayed an intermittent ground fault. No surprise, each had at its core an asphalt & cotton insulated wire more than half a century old.

I took one apart. Indeed the wire was frayed, so I replaced it, from switch contact to cable end plunger. When installed the distributor grounded out. This is an OEM distributor with OEM points and condenser.

While checking whether the cable end might be screwed in too far, the armored conduit (the big spring) pulled out of the cable end assembly, but the wire remained. Suddenly, everything worked! Put the conduit back in the cable end and it grounds out; pull the conduit out, even if it still touches the cable end, and everything works.

But why? Of course, the outer part of the cable end and the conduit are always grounded. The cable end is screwed into the distributor body and the conduit is screwed into the switch body, as well as passing through the tunnel under the fuel tank (it has a grommet, so doesn’t touch anything in the junction box) but both are insolated from the internal wire, and neither grounds out the points and condenser independently, only when screwed back together. That should make no difference.

Has anyone else experience this? Do you know why?
 
All I can relate to you is that the wire or internal conductor if you will, has to be isolated completely from any grounded source. Assume that everything it passes through is grounded. I have no idea what the condition is of the distributor connective part of the assembly. The description of the fault seems to indicate a problem in that end. That plunger and spring has to be isolated by some sort of insulation inside the threaded bushing.
 
If you threaded the cable all the way into the distributor you may have gone too far, causing the bus bar off the lower plate to short against the distributor casting. Given the end terminal on the ignition cable is spring loaded, it makes electrical contact with the cable screwed in maybe 3-4 turns. It does not need to be fully screwed in or tightened until it stops.m
 
Yeah, I don’t know either. For now, I rigged something holding the cable end and conduit inline but apart, and everything works. Eventually, I might rebuild another switch assembly and see if I learn anything new from that. Thanks.
 
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