Armored cable woes...

I don't think it's a good idea to screw the cable in and out of the dist ,puts a strain on the switch , i pull the dist a spin it on and off the armor cable, dist goes right back in place.

kurt
 
OK, I think I finally solved my problem. I haven't had a chance to work on it until this afternoon.

I had bought one of the emergency jumpers, so I started testing things out on the bench. #1, the threaded end of the jumper cable won't screw into my #2 Distributor. I don't know what size the threads are, but I need to chase them before that distributor can be used.

I pulled my #1 Dist, which had been rebuilt with a modern upper plate and the 'wiper' style of lower plate (after it had no spark with a new original style upper and lower). I had no spark with it, even with the modern stuff.

I disassembled both Dist and rebuilt #1 with the original style plates I had tried before. This time, I ohmed it out "properly" and found the open point (with cardstock between the points) wasn't open...most of the time. It would occasionally loose continuity if I turned the shaft. Took it all apart again...and again. I got out my flip-down magnifying glasses...and a good light...now I could see that the wire connector was touching the spring. Bent that sucker back away from the spring. Point no longer shorted!

I installed the Dist, retimed everything and when I connected the jumper to the coil...I got sparks!

She fired right up. Halleluiah! Then she quit. Took me a minute to remember to turn the gas back on...

I'll reinstate the old, armored cable for the time being, but I may just replace it...or at least thread a new wire thru it.

It will be nice to go for a drive tomorrow!
 
kurt v said:
I don't think it's a good idea to screw the cable in and out of the dist ,puts a strain on the switch , i pull the dist a spin it on and off the armor cable, dist goes right back in place.

kurt
Click to expand...

I've been pulling the distributor and spinning it off the cable...mine is locked down to a head bolt, so turning the cable to get it off isn't an option.
 
Finally had a chance to pull the original pop-out switch and do full diagnostics on the cabling. That didn't take long. Where the armored cable fits into the switch, the wire connection was wrapped in old electrical tape and I can feel that the wire is broken. Pull a little on the wire, no continuity, push a bit and get continuity. Wiggle the key, Ohmmeter needle flickers back and forth.

So...I ordered a new "re-pop" switch and the shorter cable. Installed, no issues (yes, I had to fiddle with it all to make sure there were no shorts against the dash), all is well!

I dunno if the original pop-out switch is worth rebuilding. The back of it looks like it has been chewed by beavers and the cup in back is crooked. I imagine it has been worked on a time or two. The key only works if you jiggle it and hold your mouth right. Probably worn out. Maybe a fun project for another day.

Next up, the leaky Tillotson...
 
The early type Electro-lock assemblies are easier to work with when the wire inside the armor goes bad but both early and late unit assemblies can be restored to reliable function. The modern Spanish reproductions can also be repaired. I've seen some damaged by shade tree mechanics that had good intentions but lacked the proper tooling and knowledge to do a good job. There are still good ones out there.
 
rotorwrench said:
The early type Electro-lock assemblies are easier to work with when the wire inside the armor goes bad but both early and late unit assemblies can be restored to reliable function. The modern Spanish reproductions can also be repaired. I've seen some damaged by shade tree mechanics that had good intentions but lacked the proper tooling and knowledge to do a good job. There are still good ones out there.
Click to expand...

So is there a thread on here that shows how to fix mine (original with key, and good screw holes on the housing.)? I paid a fair amount for mine, and it was supposed ot be restored. It failed. I suspect the person used that wax coated oven wire inside of it, and it melted and shorted.
 
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