Armored cable woes...

Trapdoor2

Trapdoor2

Senior Member
I think I have something wrong with my armored cable (from switch to distributor). I've been chasing "no spark" all day. Timing is spot on. I rebuilt the original distributor to factory spec., used the original condenser.

Yes, I've done all the VOM tests based on the Les Andrews book. I fail #5, where you separate the points with a bit of card stock, turn on the ignition and check for 6V at the points. What's odd is that I can take the cable off the distributor and get 6V at the tip of the cable (with the ignition on). Screw it into the distributor and I get nothing, no matter if it is screwed in shallow (one or two turns) or deep (4 or 5 turns).

I've disassembled the distributor multiple times. It appears fine, no shorts, nothing bent or abused (it has all new guts). I can make and break continuity with the points.

I even went so far as to replace everything in it with modern stuff (condenser on top, slip-ring lower plate, etc.). Still no voltage to the points (and now that I've built one I don't like the modern version).

I gave up and took a nap. I think tomorrow I need to make up some jumpers and start investigating the pop out switch and armored cable. I gotta gremlin lurking somewhere.
 
Check the wire under the distributor plate running to condenser. I had a similar problem years ago and that was the issue. Wire was shorting out.

When you find problem, it will something simple.

Enjoy
 
Trapdoor2 said:
I think I have something wrong with my armored cable (from switch to distributor). I've been chasing "no spark" all day. Timing is spot on. I rebuilt the original distributor to factory spec., used the original condenser.

Yes, I've done all the VOM tests based on the Les Andrews book. I fail #5, where you separate the points with a bit of card stock, turn on the ignition and check for 6V at the points. What's odd is that I can take the cable off the distributor and get 6V at the tip of the cable (with the ignition on). Screw it into the distributor and I get nothing, no matter if it is screwed in shallow (one or two turns) or deep (4 or 5 turns).

I've disassembled the distributor multiple times. It appears fine, no shorts, nothing bent or abused (it has all new guts). I can make and break continuity with the points.

I even went so far as to replace everything in it with modern stuff (condenser on top, slip-ring lower plate, etc.). Still no voltage to the points (and now that I've built one I don't like the modern version).

I gave up and took a nap. I think tomorrow I need to make up some jumpers and start investigating the pop out switch and armored cable. I gotta gremlin lurking somewhere.
Click to expand...
Hand tighten the pop out switch cable in the distributor base, Do not over tighten or you might be pushing the bus bar(maybe bent)into the housing with a resultant dead short!?
 
As I said, I tried from just a turn or two to multiple turns. Never "tight". I'm thinking the cable has an internal short as the tip is compressed. I'm online ordering a new cable (and new wiring for everything ignition related...it is all original and quite worn).

I did pull the whole distributor apart to verify I hadn't bent the buss bar after screwing in the cable very deeply (without solving the problem). It was not bent, no short.
 
You said that the lower plate in distributor was replaced.

see: click to enlarge.

SEE arrow.

When condenser is moved to above the upper plate "tab" in photo is not used to mount condenser as in Fords original method.

I have seen more than a few times that this "tab" is left straight and it contacts the inside of the distributor housing which shorts out the hot lead to points.

If inside of housing is painted the short can be very intermittent and become solid when paint wears off!
 

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Thanks y'all!

Yes, I replaced both plates, twice. Once with original style stuff, once with the "modern" style upper and lower plate. I have the same issue with both versions of the distributor. It is such an easy dist. to rebuild, I worried that I had made some sort of newbie mistake (and that's still a possibility, of course).

Setting the modern style points is a PITA, even on the bench! I spent hours (seemed like) on my belly, stuffed in the engine compartment of my Buick trying to get the points set...same stupid system. The original Ford point block makes it soooooo easy! :D

I did order the emergency jumper cable, but from Mike's. I've been alternating between Snyder's and Mike's. They've both been great!

Since I'm new with the A, I have no reserve/old parts built up. I have to order everything. I killed a new "no short" Ford style condenser. The copper plated screw seized up and I spun the guts...it wouldn't go in and wouldn't back out. I think the threads on the condenser were metric. I eventually got it apart and tried it in the original condenser, threaded right in. :rolleyes:

I ordered two new ones and will check their threads first! :D
 
You said when you have the cable unscrewed from the dist. you have power at the tip of the connector. But when you connect the cable to the dist. you have no power. So something is going to ground. I would say the wire inside the cable is shorting. hook up the wire for continuity and shake the cable. See what happens.
I had a similiar problem where the car would quit right out of the blue. it wasn't constant, after about 3 months of trying to figure it out it was the A/M ignition switch. I had the dash plate disconnect from the tank, driving a long I saw a flash out of the corner of my eye and the car quit. Wiggle the switch 2 or 3 times and it fired right up. Shake the switch and it would short (Flash) and quit. Talk about frustrating but we found it.
 
Yes. The pop-out switch or even modern ignition switches can be a problem. The problem can be internal to the switch or the terminals can be hitting the gas tank and shoring out. Pulling on the armored cable to connect it to the distributor could cause the ignition switch to short.
 
Tinbasher said:
You said when you have the cable unscrewed from the dist. you have power at the tip of the connector. But when you connect the cable to the dist. you have no power. So something is going to ground. I would say the wire inside the cable is shorting. hook up the wire for continuity and shake the cable. See what happens.
Click to expand...

I have seen the insulation on the wire inside the armored cable wear thru and short out due to vibrations for 95 years.
 
Tinbasher said:
You said when you have the cable unscrewed from the dist. you have power at the tip of the connector. But when you connect the cable to the dist. you have no power. So something is going to ground. I would say the wire inside the cable is shorting. hook up the wire for continuity and shake the cable. See what happens.
Click to expand...

Yes, I'll check that out, for sure. The cable doesn't seem to have any insulation on the end (inside the spring). It is probably original to the car. I have yet to pull the dash panel out but from the looks of the wiring in the car it is all 94yrs old...and all of it needs to be replaced. I recognized that when I bought her, so it isn't a surprise. I'm trying to do "one thing at a time" but I keep running into the "one thing leads to another". :D

When I bought her, she was running nicely. One look at the distributor internally and I had to pull it out and give it a solid cleaning...which led to a full rebuild...I haven't had spark since then and I now suspect the armored cable died the first time it was unscrewed.

I've got to find some alligator clips so I can make up some test jumpers. Another trip to Home Depot...
 
First step when using a test lead is to verify continuity in the lead itself, then proceed. I've seen new leads that weren't crimped properly at the ends, and old leads you never know.
:)
 
Trapdoor2 said:
When I bought her, she was running nicely. One look at the distributor internally and I had to pull it out and give it a solid cleaning...which led to a full rebuild...I haven't had spark since then and I now suspect the armored cable died the first time it was unscrewed.
Click to expand...

Yup - My vote is for what you just posted. If it's an original armored cable/pop out then you most likely did it in when you removed the distributor.

If you switch ignition switches for a re-pop then, as mentioned above, be careful about it touching and shorting out against the gas tank with the dash installed. I spent a good few minutes chasing that one one time.

As others mentioned it would be easy to check that wire for continuity to verify. Then jump it and check for 6v.

Enjoy!
 
I faced a no spark condition as well, traced it down to a bad brand new armored cable. Learned a ton about diagnostics in the process
 
Sorry about that. Too use to everyday trade terms. A/M stands for Aftermarket parts or as I say Almost Fit parts. JP
Brkt. -- Bracket. R&I Remove and Install, R&R Remove and Replace and it goes on.
 
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