Are these original parts

pookie55

pookie55

Member
I have two pics here, one is a piece of Fender welting that looks like Cork & weaved cotton.
The other is a wooden body block with rubber padding and a tack.
Just wondering if these pieces are original to the vehicle
 

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The wood block with rubber pad sure looks original. All the originals I've seen had the rubber held in place by 2 diagonal tacks.
 
can`t make out the one on the left but, yes, the one on the right looks to be an original body block
 
Piece on left looks like body/frame welt. Pookie, you stated it was in the fender welt area?
Jeff
Very interesting..?
 
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Excellent. That body/frame welt is original to the vehicle. It lays the entire lenght of the frame (top side) to help control body squeaks and creaks. If you take the body off, it is best advised to replace it. Available from the suppliers. Jeff
 
Thanks Jeff that's great info I thought it may be original it looks original but I was not for sure. I didn't know if any manufacturer created original Style welting material. Any advice on what type to put back? is there the same type with Cork & Cloth or just cloth or rubber?
 
Pookie, I'm not sure if the replacement welt material has a cork compound in it. But it is pretty close to original material as possible. The new material is more like a heavy canvas strip of oil skin. Hope this helps. Jeff
 
The rest of the forum might be able to jump in on this one. I've never had to purchase any from the suppliers yet... I have some that has come with the "deals" that I've purchased in the past. Jeff
 
JDupuis said:
The rest of the forum might be able to jump in on this one. I've never had to purchase any from the suppliers yet... I have some that has come with the "deals" that I've purchased in the past. Jeff
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Years ago I got some for the 1930 AA I was working on, and I think it came from Bratton's. I found it's best to unroll it, cut it in half, then tape it to the frame and let it set for a day or two before marking and punching the holes. I wouldn't replace body bolts unless your old ones are pitted or stripped.
 
Thanks Tom Wesenberg & JDupuis ..
I'm probably going to reuse the welting as it is in-tacked (although looking smashed). the bolts all look good i was going to just put them in a tumbler and clean them up. I did purchase new fender/apron bolts & body bolts but I'm unhappy with the stamping on the heads of the bolts.the original bolts are smooth .. they look authentic.
 
pookie55 said:
... I did purchase new fender/apron bolts & body bolts but I'm unhappy with the stamping on the heads of the bolts.the original bolts are smooth .. they look authentic.
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You might try looking at stainless bolts. A lot of the time they don't have head markings on them.
 
A few years ago I tried tumbling some nuts and bolts to clean them up. I used my rock tumbler with some Black Beauty blasting grit. After several hours of tumbling, they still weren't done, so I used my blast cabinet and finished them in a few minutes. So far the blast cabinet is the quickest method, even though molasses in a dark tub in the hot summer sun does wonders at removing rust from parts also.
 
Yeah the bolt kits that I bought through early model A out of California are all stamped heavily on top they are stainless steel with black painted ones for the fenders but nevertheless all of the stainless steel have heavy 307 stamped on top. I even thought about grinding that stuff off the heads and then realized why waste all that time I'll just clean and reuse old bolts where possible
I think you're right,Tom the tumbler does clean but does not remove everything I'll just go get some new blast material for my media blaster.
It's the square nuts that were a bit complicated to get off expecially trying to size them with standard octagon wrenches of today
 
Hi Pookie, this will answer all your questions on the webbing and blocks:
file:///C:/Users/DonS/AppData/Local/Microsoft/Windows/INetCache/Content.Outlook/2YCX8KHD/antisqueakwebbing%20(3).pdf
The cork/cloth webbing is unique and in my research, I have never seen any engineering drawings or notes on it. The original webbing was two parts. the front piece extended from the front holes in the front of the frame to about 2" beyond the front mounting hole of the cowl numbered 1. The second piece extends from that point under the splash apron to the rear of the splash apron. It was glued on with rubber cement during assembly. The block shown is a mounting block which is indexed in my article...a rubber impregnated cotton twill pad. Of the twenty I have collected, they are all calcified. They are fastened to the wood block with two #4 blue upholstery tacks. Bratton's tapes are 1/16" thick, the originals were about 1/32"...I think the cork/cloth looks like a piece of window setting material that was forced into service as a anti squeak tape.
Good luck on your restoration.
Swoff
 
swo4rd said:
Hi Pookie, this will answer all your questions on the webbing and blocks:
file:///C:/Users/DonS/AppData/Local/Microsoft/Windows/INetCache/Content.Outlook/2YCX8KHD/antisqueakwebbing%20(3).pdf
The cork/cloth webbing is unique and in my research, I have never seen any engineering drawings or notes on it. The original webbing was two parts. the front piece extended from the front holes in the front of the frame to about 2" beyond the front mounting hole of the cowl numbered 1. The second piece extends from that point under the splash apron to the rear of the splash apron. It was glued on with rubber cement during assembly. The block shown is a mounting block which is indexed in my article...a rubber impregnated cotton twill pad. Of the twenty I have collected, they are all calcified. They are fastened to the wood block with two #4 blue upholstery tacks. Bratton's tapes are 1/16" thick, the originals were about 1/32"...I think the cork/cloth looks like a piece of window setting material that was forced into service as a anti squeak tape.
Good luck on your restoration.
Swoff
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Thanks so much for the information. As I only removed the splash apron and fender on driver side to identify chassis vin #'s. I reinstalled everything as I found it other than cleaning of old nuts bolts and washers and replacing only what was necessary, also used all new wooden blocks under cab and new rubber shims.
The welting that I pictured was cotton and cork inside, it's not only one piece that I pictured(this piece broken free from the rest)it's one long run from the front fender all the way to the rear of the apron and ends at the start of the rear Fender.
I will definitely look at the file you sent me as soon as I get to my laptop.
Thanks swo4rd
John.

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