Are my spri gs worn out?

have you lubricated them with spring lubricant as specified in the service bulletins?
there should be a grease fitting on the center bolt— it not for regular chassis grease,spring line is thin oil (specified as ice machine oil about 75%, talc about 24 %and balance ground asbestos) the talc is a polishing and dry lubricant the asbestos probably can be left out.
the bulletin specified a dedicated grease gun and shaking it before use
 
Possibly weak or even a broken spring in the stack.

Many larger cities have shops that repair and re-arch springs for heavy trucks - there is at least one I know of in the Dallas area. Some of them have the equipment and know-how to re-arch springs.
 
Kurt in NJ said:
have you lubricated them with spring lubricant as specified in the service bulletins?
there should be a grease fitting on the center bolt— it not for regular chassis grease,spring line is thin oil (specified as ice machine oil about 75%, talc about 24 %and balance ground asbestos) the talc is a polishing and dry lubricant the asbestos probably can be left out.
the bulletin specified a dedicated grease gun and shaking it before use
Click to expand...

No. I used red grease after I replaced all the zirk fittings. I didn't know about the grease that you had mentioned.

Tomorrow, I'll go out and take some pictures of it's stance and post them.
 
You might research the price of buying new springs vs rearching the old ones. I would opt for the new springs if the prices are close
 
I also saw a situation where the center bolt that holds the spring pack together had become loose and sheared it off. This allowed the stack to shift and put the springs out of alignment causing the vehicle to lean to one side.
 
Just went through this on my '36 pickup, which has a stock suspension pretty much identical to the cars. Original front spring lost its arch on one side. After consideration including possible re-arching, opted for a new spring from Eaton Detroit Spring (not wanting to go through the R+R possibly twice). Cost was $600 including tax + shipping, turnaround time was 4 weeks, it's a perfect match for the original. They have patterns for stock springs for cars and trucks. Added in rebuild of failed lever shock on one side (by Andy Falandes, excellent service) for $225 including shipping.
I'm very pleased with the result, admittedly a bit of coin but what isn't these days?

Adam
 
Thanks everyone for your replies and suggestions. I went and measured the wheel openings at each corner. Left front 25 3/4". Right front 29". Left rear 26 1/2". Right rear 28 1/2". I'll check to see if any of the leafs have shifted or cracked. If that's not the case, I guess I'll have to look at re-arching or replacing them.
 

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Rockymountainsparky said:
Thanks everyone for your replies and suggestions. I went and measured the wheel openings at each corner. Left front 25 3/4". Right front 29". Left rear 26 1/2". Right rear 28 1/2". I'll check to see if any of the leafs have shifted or cracked. If that's not the case, I guess I'll have to look at re-arching or replacing them.
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If stock springs are not required; you can get front & rear set of Posies springs for a little over $700 from Speedway Motors (free or cheap $9.99 oversize shipping upcharge, too). These are lowering springs; but may be closer to what you have now, instead of coming up a several inches with new stock spec springs.

Part number, front 5802040 & rear 5803740.

Going to need new shackles.

If the ones in the axle and wishbone are good (not usually); we have pulled the pins from the old spring eyes and reused them along with modified urethane or nylon bushings in the new spring.

Due to the reversed eyes; we normally take the spring apart, install the main leaf, and reassemble the rest of the spring. Standard process; good C-clamps and a long bolt to align the center.

In my experience; Posies Super-Slide springs ride smooth too.
 
Good morning all,

This thread caught my interest.

My '35 has the wrapped rear transverse spring. I have the 'lubroclamp' tool but have not greased the rear spring yet.

My question is... someone advise what type grease I should use... Is the John Deere corn head grease a good choice?

Also what grease would you advise as a spray on for the front spring?

Thanks to all!
 
...and another question please...

What is the recommended modern grease for the drive shaft tube? and how much to pump in?

Thanks.
 
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