Appropriate flatbed material?

mvonhobe

mvonhobe

Junior Member
My '39 1-½ ton flatbed has a srsly dried out bed. It's sound enough but looks so dry. Appears to be a tongue-in-groove material but can't tell what species of wood. Half thinking of giving it a sanding try and sealing it. Some of you fellas have absolutely gorgeous pickup beds but utility comes before beauty for mine.
Nevertheless, any suggestions for the sanding/sealing process?
As well, what species and dimension of wood would look best for a redo?
Thanks guys!
Matthew
 
Try sanding it with a belt sander 60grit then sealing with wood life or some type of wood sealer, did this to my 53 f-100 ,the bed looks good ,not show quality but nice. the wood could be oak.
 
We sanded some of grey off to pull the wood grain through. Then I applied hardwood floor urethane on the wood looks awesome and has taken a beating and still looks good.
 
I would say use a high quality urethane similar to bowling alley finish if it's going to get hard use after sanding 60-80 grit should do it .I used some on my Son's bedroom floor at the recommendation of a neighbor and 10 years later it still looked like new.Can't remember the brand name now but ask a good Hardware store man,he'll know.
 
Ford may have used several species of light colored hard wood for bed material. There were also more than just a few aftermarket bed manufacturers but they usually have there name plate mounted somewhere on the bed sides. Oak, ash, birch, & spruce were common light colored hard woods used for bed materials. Others may have been used as well but the darker furniture woods were more expensive even back then.
 
If you wind up replacing the wood, I'd suggest red oak. It is really tough stuff and will finish out nicely. We used to re-deck railroad flatcars with 3" thick red oak and the floors would take the weather and very punishing use for years. No matter what you use for a new bed, be sure you seal the under side and the edges of each board before you do the final assembly. The bed will last longer and have less tendency to warp and twist with all surfaces sealed. Good luck!
 
White oak is better than red oak. White oak (so I've heard) produces tylose whereas red oak does not. When the wood is exposed to water, the tylose supposedly blocks water absorption into the wood. This leaves white oak with much better rot resistance than red oak. In short, red oak is more porous and less rot resistant. This is also why whiskey barrels are white oak and not red oak.

Just a few minutes of googling exterior oak wood choices for exterior projects should give you this answer. I'm not an expert on woods, so I suggest your own research to verify all the Ford barn claims to your level of satisfaction.

I'm planning on redoing my COE bed but I'm haven't gotten there yet. I've just started my research on what to use. I need about ten 9-foot boards about 1 inch thick...I do know that will be expensive regardless of wood type.

COE Dan
 
Didn't ford use hickory for the wood spokes in Model Ts? I am sure it is the toughest wood. I had a tree sawed up 20 years ago and made a couple of chairs and bedstead out of it but it was really hard to work with so put it out in the shed and there it is now. I am sure it would be the hardest wearing wood for truck or trailer bed.
 
keith oh - If cost were no object, teak would be a good choice. Impervious to weather, stronger than any native species and finishes well. Ask the US Navy. Unfortunately, cost is always a consideration. Hickory, or any other native hardwood, would make a hansome and servicable bed. Finding wide boards in some species might be difficult.
 
Henry- You are right about teak being strong, I have worked with both teak and hickory and found hickory stronger than teak and dulls planer blades faster, as an example. Two years ago I did a trailer bed with tongue and grove white oak and found it to be very tough also.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top