I bought a '36 ford that was cut into a crop sprayer back in the fifties. In it, was this 24 stud flatty, and the original 36 ******. The motor was a dealer replacement marked 05/60. The block is junk. The water pumps, generator, and pretty much everything else are locked up. I got the shifter to wiggle a little bit, but thats it. Is there any thing worth saving off of it before it goes to the scrapper?
Anything worth saving on this flathead?
- Thread starter eberhama
- Start date
Capn John
Well-known member
Well, they're not making them anymore, so store it and if the final decision is made sell it rather than junk.
For the ****** parts and info are readily available.
Same for the block if it's not cracked. Even then it can be sleaved!!
Take the plugs out and pour some ATF (automatic transmission fluid) in each cylinder.
Buddy of mine and I ended up with something similar. now rests on a pallet in the garage, the ****** has been rebuilt. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_home.htm
from alanwoodieman
most of the time I soak them with a mixture of atf and acetone 50/50. usually for two weeks. try to spray upward so that the valves get some of this mixture. then take a pull handle and socket on front crankshaft bolt and attempt to turn over engine, just a little, if it moves back up more than you came forward. leave alone with more of the mixture for a day or so. I have also found that valves stuck in the guides can be the culprit. If so remove the valley cover and soak the valve guides with same. I just unstuck one that had been sitting since 1972--good luck and go slow
and from rotorwrench:
I always caution folks that are trying to break an old flatty free. Most things have been touched on to a point. Some folks think it's just a piston or three but any metal to metal surface can corrode and sieze up. Pistons to cylinder are common but stuck valves are just as common. You can break a stuck piston loose a lot of times with a long cheater bar but you will break a cam or follower if it's stuck valves. As was mentioned too, clutch plates can rust to the flywheel and they sometimes take a good bit to break that bond even though it's not technically a metal to metal surface and it realy doesn't lock up the engine. If the vehicle is in neutral it will spin the input & countershaft freely along with the crank but it won't disengage.
from straightpipes:
All of these methods may get it loose but you still dont know whats going on inside. Pull the manifold and heads and inspect it properly.
Go to search above for more ideas!!!
For the ****** parts and info are readily available.
Same for the block if it's not cracked. Even then it can be sleaved!!
Take the plugs out and pour some ATF (automatic transmission fluid) in each cylinder.
Buddy of mine and I ended up with something similar. now rests on a pallet in the garage, the ****** has been rebuilt. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_home.htm
from alanwoodieman
most of the time I soak them with a mixture of atf and acetone 50/50. usually for two weeks. try to spray upward so that the valves get some of this mixture. then take a pull handle and socket on front crankshaft bolt and attempt to turn over engine, just a little, if it moves back up more than you came forward. leave alone with more of the mixture for a day or so. I have also found that valves stuck in the guides can be the culprit. If so remove the valley cover and soak the valve guides with same. I just unstuck one that had been sitting since 1972--good luck and go slow
and from rotorwrench:
I always caution folks that are trying to break an old flatty free. Most things have been touched on to a point. Some folks think it's just a piston or three but any metal to metal surface can corrode and sieze up. Pistons to cylinder are common but stuck valves are just as common. You can break a stuck piston loose a lot of times with a long cheater bar but you will break a cam or follower if it's stuck valves. As was mentioned too, clutch plates can rust to the flywheel and they sometimes take a good bit to break that bond even though it's not technically a metal to metal surface and it realy doesn't lock up the engine. If the vehicle is in neutral it will spin the input & countershaft freely along with the crank but it won't disengage.
from straightpipes:
All of these methods may get it loose but you still dont know whats going on inside. Pull the manifold and heads and inspect it properly.
Go to search above for more ideas!!!
Last edited:
Seth Swoboda
Well-known member
If you really wanted to you could take the heads off, remove the pan and force-ably remove all the pistons and valves to salvage the block. I have done that once before. But hey, how hard do you really want to work at it?
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
If my eyes are correct - there appears to be a big ole' hole in the side of the block. I'd probably remove the starter, oil pan, water pumps, distributor, flywheel and trans. There isn't much inside the block worth screwing with (at least in my mind). I'd also save the timing cover.
That's just a shadow. I did take the pass. head off. The #1 has the cylinder wall pushed open. #4 the piston turned to powder enough that I can see through it. The vally is really clean(comparatively) though.
blucar
Well-known member
In our easy come, easy go, instant gratification world it would appear that there is very little if any usable parts on the engine/trans assembly, however, there is a ton of parts there worth saving, that is if a person has the time, space and ability to market the parts.
I harvested an 8BA engine/trans a few years ago in about the same condition, got a good crank/rods/heads, water pumps and exhaust manifolds out of the deal. The trans was a four speed so I junked it.
I paid $25. for the engine/trans, by the time I sold everything I made $450., not to bad of a profit for a couple hours work.
I harvested an 8BA engine/trans a few years ago in about the same condition, got a good crank/rods/heads, water pumps and exhaust manifolds out of the deal. The trans was a four speed so I junked it.
I paid $25. for the engine/trans, by the time I sold everything I made $450., not to bad of a profit for a couple hours work.
Bored&Stroked
Well-known member
I have X-RAY eyes . . . I imagined a issue with the block . . . must have seen all the way into the innards by #1. LOL
D
VeryTangled
Well-known member
What he said.
Capt Kirk
Well-known member
By purchasing that, you just became the steward of a lot of old parts that aren't made anymore. They may be worthless to you but they may be important to someone that's trying to find parts for their project. The more of these old original parts that go to scrap the fewer that are out there to keep these old original cars alive. This spring I found an old for front axle laying in the woods at a house I condemned. Owner tore down the house and I asked if I could buy/have the axle and an old Singer treadle sewing machine that was going to get crushed and hauled to the dump. I couldn't let that happen and ended up with both. Sold the axle to a member that really needed it and restored the Singer. Save original parts and give/sell them to people that need them...you may not want them but somebody does. There is somebody out there willing to put money into these parts to make them work again.
VeryTangled
Well-known member
He said it too! I added the bold.
rich b
Well-known member
You don't show the rear section in your picture; but lots of good parts for somebody; X-member goes good in an A frame, or '32 for that matter if you don't have the K-member. Front axle, spindles, front and rear wishbones, rear cross-member, tubular driveshaft, torque tube bell and clam shells, rear cover and inner mount plate on the trans (if the rest junk).
Don't underestimate the value of those parts, they can add up fast, turned a $500 junk '36 sedan into $2200 and weird $400 dollar '38 pick-up cab on a '39 car chassis into $1500 without much work and still got to keep the parts I originally wanted besides.
Don't underestimate the value of those parts, they can add up fast, turned a $500 junk '36 sedan into $2200 and weird $400 dollar '38 pick-up cab on a '39 car chassis into $1500 without much work and still got to keep the parts I originally wanted besides.
The rolling frame is going under a 40 coupe. I just need the flathead out of the way. I'd like to get it to someone who could use the bits and pieces, but after a month on craigslist, I cant get anyone to come and haul it off except for the scrappers. I barely have room for the old car stuff I keep telling myself I'm going to use, much less the stuff I know I'm no going to use. I started tearing it apart, so I guess we'll see how strong the ebay market is for rusty flathead stuff.
corvette8n
Well-known member
Hot Rod magazine put a rusty locked up 8BA in about 100 gallons of rust remover and brought the thing back to life so anything is possible. I'd keep it just for a future project.
I hope this doesn't mean that you're putting a Crapolet in it!
This ones getting a 4bt cummins. The '36 3 window is getting the 5.3 chevy motor.
GB SISSON
Well-known member
So the cut down sprayer is getting the 4bt? Or a little more info and some pictures please. A 4bt would be cool in a ton and a half ford if you had a good set of ear plugs, but I've had cummins and flathead fords and at my age I like my power smooth and quiet. Fuel mileage takes second place. I ran the sawmill and the planer all day so after work I need things quiet and a flatty with a big muffler is just that.
