Anyone used Irontite block sealer in a Flathead?

M

Mr.C.

New member
Irontite comes well recommended, but...


The instructions say that after a certain time of running the coolant should be drained and left to dry out for twelve hours before re-filling with water etc.

Fine, except the Ford Flathead V8 doesn't have a block drain, so allowing the insides to dry out would take a heck of a lot longer than twelve hours!

Has anyone had success with skipping this step? i.e draining, flushing with water, draining, leaving it to 'dry', and flushing again?
 
Welcome aboard. My 1937 flathead has two block drain plugs, one on either side at the front of the engine below where the block mounted water pumps are.

I have no experience with the Irontite product you are asking about, but I don't think it would be wise to skip that step.
 
I would think it you could set up a fan under the motor so it's blowing up and around the holes could help it to dry out in 12 hours.
 
Mr.C. said:
What holes? I'd rather not remove the pumps, or do you mean remove the lower hoses?
Click to expand...

I was originally thinking of the two small holes that some blocks have, but now that I say it out loud, your block may not have them.

Now that you say it, I would remove the lower hoses after it drained.
 
Try completely draining the system, re connecting lower hoses and removing both temp senders or the top heater hose from the block , remove radiator cap then use a light draft of compressed air to circulate through the block over night.
 
452945
Mr.C. said:
It's an 8BA, and has no drain holes.
Click to expand...
Maybe it does not have drain plugs but do you in fact have leaks? and where are they?
Also Irontite has a few different products, which one are you talking about?
The 8BA block has a hole that is appox. level with the bottom of the inner block.
This drains into the hose connection and bottom of radiator.
Removing a lower hose should drain it, and to get more out, jack up the back of the car.
 

Attachments

  • drain.jpg
    drain.jpg
    84.1 KB · Views: 391
Last edited:
Personally I would follow the steps as suggested. I've used it in my engine and left it circulating for a while it was not a good idea as the water went "gluggy". Even after I drained and replaced with fresh water remnants of it were still circulating for a while. I eventually caught it by putting some mesh strainers over the inlets to the radiator and cleaning them out regularly. I used it previously on a little E13 Nissan that got a small head gasket leak. This car wasn't worth a "tin of ****" but was a great run around. It was a cheap fix and it was still working 4 years later when my daughter smashed the car up. As i said good stuff if you follow the directions. By the way I put it in my v8 to repair a crack in the head water jacket... it didnt work (thats why I let it circulate too long, hoping it would). Did the right thing and got a replacement head in the end.

GB
 
Thanks, I'll check on that lower front hole to see if it's there (the block is miles from my house). I'm using Irontite Ceramic Sealer. The engine wasn't leaking before re-build, but, the coolant had huge amounts of sealer in it, looked like K-seal or similar. The block is cracked above the pan rails, but we're going with it because a) it's free as I already have it, and b) it didn't use so much as a tea-spoon of coolant before.
While the block is clean and dry, I thought it a good idea to use the Irontite Ceramic sealer, then afterwards use their All Weather Sealer in the coolant. If that plan fails, I can chuck in loads of K-Seal like the previous owner did!
 
Mr.C. said:
Thanks, I'll check on that lower front hole to see if it's there (the block is miles from my house). I'm using Irontite Ceramic Sealer. The engine wasn't leaking before re-build, but, the coolant had huge amounts of sealer in it, looked like K-seal or similar. The block is cracked above the pan rails, but we're going with it because a) it's free as I already have it, and b) it didn't use so much as a tea-spoon of coolant before.
While the block is clean and dry, I thought it a good idea to use the Irontite Ceramic sealer, then afterwards use their All Weather Sealer in the coolant. If that plan fails, I can chuck in loads of K-Seal like the previous owner did!
Click to expand...
It now becomes clear as to why you are using the product that you selected.
 
I used Irontite in a fresh 32 v8. But I was afraid of running it through the radiator. I circulated it in engine only by rigging up hoses and clear plastic tubing and spinning water pump with electric drill. Circulation could be seen in clear tubing. On one side slight leakage at a couple of head studs but leakage stopped shortly after circulating coolant.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top