So I have a very tough area that has rusted thru the top of the rear widow of a 31" pickup, probably can't be welded as it is right in the detail and i think would be very hard to clean up after a weld. So I first thought of Tiger Hair, but today I have learned about this interesting product, ( Lab Metal ) I'd love to hear what you guys have to say about it. So I'll shut up and listen thanks
Anyone use lab Metal
- Thread starter Gino
- Start date
28ACoupe
Well-known member
First off, the right way to fix the problem is to replace the metal that is destroyed. However, not everyone has the skills to do this so if this is the case with you, I would recommend taking your truck to a good quality body shop and have them replace the metal.
"Bondo" is not the right way to do it and only leaves a horrendous mess for the next guy that comes along.
That being said, if I were to use some kind of filler in the area, I would go with a fiberglass backing on the inside and kitty hair on the outside. Sand to suit.
Body fillers, particularly when used by untrained people, are great sponges for water and you will be revisiting this problem again soon.
"Bondo" is not the right way to do it and only leaves a horrendous mess for the next guy that comes along.
That being said, if I were to use some kind of filler in the area, I would go with a fiberglass backing on the inside and kitty hair on the outside. Sand to suit.
Body fillers, particularly when used by untrained people, are great sponges for water and you will be revisiting this problem again soon.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
I saw it advertised in Hemmings a few years back and decided to try it. It can be used to finish small defects in welds or other blimishes in metal that you can't get to well enough to pick out with a hammer. I would only use it over solid metal backing and not try filling holes, especially rust holes. I found Lab metal to be quiet hard and difficult to finish. When I did my roadster I had 9 large bullet holes in the rumble lid that I hammered out and gas welded. Welding srinks the metal, so each weld had to be rehammered to stretch the panel back in to shape . I needed a filler that could be skim coated. I didn't want to use plastic body filler or putty. Lab Metal set up way to quick to get a decent skim spread for my purpose. I tried Evercoat Metal to metal filler and it worked as well as premium body filler, it didn't set up before I could spread it and it sanded as easily as premium body filler. The finish job looked just tike lead and even fooled everybody that looked at it before I primed it. Either Lab Metal or Evercoat metal to metal filler can be powdercoated. Without looking at the area that you need to repair it is hard to say if either product would make a lasting repair.
Doug in NJ
Well-known member
I second the use of Evercoat Metal-2-Metal. But if you wait more than a day or so to sand it, it will be a hard as rock.
Just today I learned something about it: I needed to mix some up. It comes with a clear liquid catalyst, instead of the common paste catalyst, but the tube had gotten dried out. I looked on the label of a tube of paste catalyst I had, and it said that it also contained a plasticizer. I used it anyway, and the Metal-2-Matal set up a bit softer and more flexible than it usually does.
Doug
Just today I learned something about it: I needed to mix some up. It comes with a clear liquid catalyst, instead of the common paste catalyst, but the tube had gotten dried out. I looked on the label of a tube of paste catalyst I had, and it said that it also contained a plasticizer. I used it anyway, and the Metal-2-Matal set up a bit softer and more flexible than it usually does.
Doug
Craig Lewis
Well-known member
In a northern climate (BC coast) I've found that fiberglass, kitty hair or dynaglass will only last a few months before moisture works it's way in. Invariably it seperates from the metal and you have moisture blisters popping up.
I like the way USC Metal to metal works & sands but I've seen it blister and have a hunch it's only slightly more waterprooof than fiberglass or bondo...in spite of the claims.
My new can of Lab metal was a solid rock when I opened it after a year on my shelf...never did see how it worked
...for the record, lacquer thinnner doesn't cut it.
I know it's time consuming & finicky work to patch small areas and usually creates a need for some shrinking, but then you do it only once.
I like the way USC Metal to metal works & sands but I've seen it blister and have a hunch it's only slightly more waterprooof than fiberglass or bondo...in spite of the claims.
My new can of Lab metal was a solid rock when I opened it after a year on my shelf...never did see how it worked
...for the record, lacquer thinnner doesn't cut it.
I know it's time consuming & finicky work to patch small areas and usually creates a need for some shrinking, but then you do it only once.
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Terry NJ
Well-known member
All shapes and angles can be duplicated and welded to replace bad metal. Some are just a little more complex than others. I wish I could post pics on here (It's beyond my abilities with a computer) But I recently duplicated and welded in a 4" high panel in my R.F. door. I used a piece of 18ga that I got in the scrapyard. I am not a body man! As a welder, working with this thin stuff was something we never had to do. However, I did buy myself a used MIG welder and practiced until I got good at it. Up grade your skills! Your next project will turn out much better!
Terry
Terry