Anyone tried this? Post shut down cooling.

[Bluebell]

More stuff:
This is from Rumbleseats files. If you haven't come accross him, he is a wealth of info on these fine fords.
He suggests a fuel pressure regulator, never set higher than 2 1/2 psi, because 3 1/2 psi overcomes the needle valve.
Anyhow, read it your self.

FUEL PUMP PRESSURE: Ford and Stromberg carbs were engineered to operate at a
maximum of 2½ psi fuel pressure which was pretty typical of carb pressure in the
thirties. Exceeding this pressure can overload the needle/float system (hold the
needle off it’s seat) and flood a carb. This results in gas running down the
carbs and onto the engine and is probably where the Strombergs partly got their
reputation for being burners. The Ford carbs will also suffer from excessive
pressure, but are not as sensitive as Strombergs due to better float leverage
against the needle and seat. This is the result of Ford’s better float pivot
design. When the float is set too high, or if the pressure exceeds 2½ psi, or
the vehicle is driven off-road, the air horn to main body gasket on both brands
of carbs will become saturated with gas. Raw gas and gas vapors will waterfall
down the front of the carbs. Notice the proximity of the front of the carb to
the generator brushes arcing on the commutator? Picture your engine with hot gas
on the front of the carbs and the close proximity of the arcing generator. Scary
isn’t it? Don’t chance it..... limit the fuel pressure by installing an
adjustable fuel pressure regulator and setting it to not more than 2½ psi. I
prefer the Holley regulator. Note the carburetor designed pressure is less than
the 3½ psi Ford specifies for their mechanical fuel pump. Strange Ford STROMBERG NEEDLE/SEAT ASSEMBLIES: These were originally a steel needle and a
brass seat which made them susceptible to the needle being held off it’s seat by
grit and dirt… which resulted in flooding which lead to fires. These all metal
needle and seat assemblies are sensitive to pressures in excess of 2½ psi. Ken
Ct. of the Ford Barn recommends and uses only metallic needle and seat
assemblies.
With the advent of the soft tipped needle (Vitom), the sensitivity to dirt and
fuel pressure was reduced and flooding decreased considerably. I use only these.
Since the sixties several different designs of needle and seat assemblies have
been manufactured. Some are not affected by grit and dirt and many will tolerate
higher fuel pressure. I’ve tried many of them, but end up going back to the
Vitom tipped needles in my Strombergs. I’ve not had a single sticking needle in
the past 135,000 miles so why change?

He also mentioned in his article, about the power valve leaking. Just another thing to check.

 

[BILL WZOREK]

Henry:
How far would you have to go to get Regular Gas the old fashion type,
( NON ALCOHOL ) without changing any thing it may be worth the trip to go get some & drain the tank And fill with THE GOOD STUFF !!!
That would be a real test to see if it is the CORN GAS or if in fact you do have other problems.

 

[fourtydlx]

I had no problem with smell of fuel[gas] when it did not have alcohol in it, now every time I stop you can smell, You know how fast alky evaps, What happens when it's heated,it's carrying the smell of gas with it

 

[GaryTx]

Ok Perry Mason....LOL

 

[Old Henry]

Henry:
How far would you have to go to get Regular Gas the old fashion type,

I've never seen any pumps in my state (Utah) that don't have the 10% Ethanol sign on them. I'm three hours from the nearest border. So, I'm stuck with the alcohol.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

In a multitude of undertakings, and to conclude with positive results in solving any heat-related problem, HEAT and it's related properties need to be reasonably understood. Heat is a very real commodity, not unlike water if that particular commodity can help one "visualize" the concept. One must also remember that the EFFECTS of heat must be measured over some period(s) of time. Basically, heat can be created (as under your hood) as a form of energy-change (burning gasoline). Once heat is created, it cannot be un-created. Heat can only be (re)moved, or diluted with cooler air. Heat ALWAYS flows toward the LACK of HEAT...never TOWARD a greater heat. Effective HEAT (as in temperature of air) can be diminished by introducing large quantities of "not-as-warm" air, as in the ambient air (a huge heat sink) around your car, outside the hood. Your hood is an insulator to outside, cooler, ambient air. Just like in an air conditioner, we do not make cold air...we REMOVE heat from the air. That's why that condenser fan outside your home blows WARM air...that warm air is the heat that's been removed from your living space (moved somewhere else...outside). All we can do with heat is move it around. Just like in every old car that Henry Ford ever built, they get hot under the hood, and get even hotter after shutdown, as the higher heat in the engine moves toward the RELATIVELY lower air temp under the hood. In your particular case, you've found that if you open the hood BEFORE that normal, under-hood heat has TIME to rise in temperature to a point that triggers your OTHER MECHANICAL ANOMALIES to permeate their chain of effects (which MANY here have given you good advice to consider), you've only precluded the initial cause of ANOTHER chain of mechanical and physics events conducive to causing your "gas stink" situation. In other words, the hot under-hood temps (NORMAL) are only initiating a chain of deeper, underlying problem(s) with your fuel delivery system. As said before, several others have given some really good advice here to consider as to your REAL problem. You've shown that you have little regard for my input, and I frankly don't know why I'm taking the time to try to help ya here, but more than one person in this thread has tried to convince you (with great troubleshooting advice) that "band-aids" only cover-up deeper problems. I hope this helps, in some small way, for you to take into consideration ALL the symptoms that are present with your "smelly" dilemma. Nothing personal here henry...just trying to help. Your signature line is "spot-on". DD

 

[Old Henry]

Thanks to everyone who put so much effort into addressing this apparently unique problem that I have. I may not seem very "humble" at times by not just accepting a suggestion without question. I've got to ask the hard questions to really "test" the suggestion, yea, even "cross examine" and be the "devil's advocate" regarding the suggestion to really understand it and see if it makes sense. Even then I'll have to think a lot about it, do some independent research and maybe even try some experiments to prove it before accepting it. Some may not like that and think I should just accept the suggestion because they said so or because so many have said so. My apologies to those for whom my approach may cause some discomfort. I just can't do that. I have found by my approach that on occasion, not often, a suggestion that seems to make sense at first and is recommended by many is, in fact, wrong when put to an empirical test. All of that thinking and analyzing is, indeed, a lot of work and work that many skip and just accept a recommendation without question. If one is comfortable with that, it sure saves a lot of time and effort. I'm just not.

I'll go "back to the drawing board" on this one and re-check all of the things that have been suggested and see if any of them are the cause that I can address without the "Band-Aid" I was originally thinking about.

 

[Pete]

"I'll probably end up doing just that - nothing. But it's fun to speculate on a new mechanical approach to a problem."

67 posts and he ends up with that statement.
He had no intention of doing anything other than running his post count up.
He has done this before if you do a search of his previous posts.
I have added him to my ignore list.

 

[Old Henry]

Pete, my post that you are criticizing is #43, not the statement I "ended up with". There have been 24 more posts since then that you might want to read to get "the rest of the story" before condemning so severely.

I appreciate the help and suggestions you've made and welcome any and all suggestions and ideas you have in the future. I may not accept them nor act upon them immediately but I will receive them gratefully, evaluate them thoroughly, and ponder them at length.

 

[johndee138]

This is the answer to my flooding problem...too much fuel pressure!. after a short run the motor always floods at restart, smells to high heaven of gas, the fuel pump(stock diaphragm type) will squirt gas way across the driveway when unhooked & cranking motor. Im getting a fuel regulator today! this forum is the BEST!!

 

[Old Henry]

This is the answer to my flooding problem...too much fuel pressure!. after a short run the motor always floods at restart, smells to high heaven of gas, the fuel pump(stock diaphragm type) will squirt gas way across the driveway when unhooked & cranking motor. Im getting a fuel regulator today! this forum is the BEST!!

Might want to put a pressure gauge on the end of the fuel line that squirts so far before concluding that's the problem. Any pressure over 3.5 psi would, indeed, need a regulator but under that it is probably something else like your carb float level or needle valve.

If you need a regulator the Holley is a good one that I and many others use. Available here: http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-f...t-ford-9500-reg/camid/F30/cp/JS0R3CHL1140518/

 

[Ross F-1]

Surely if you put a small hole say .010 between the outlet and the inlet side of the fuel pump it would bleed off any pressure built up in the line from the pump to the carb,why not get an old pump body and try it.
What it would do is bleed off the pressure when stopped,when running the pump would pump FAR more fuel than could leak through the small hole.
Worth a try.
Lawrie

The best solution IMO...

...
If you need a regulator the Holley is a good one that I and many others use. Available here: http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-f...t-ford-9500-reg/camid/F30/cp/JS0R3CHL1140518/

O'Reilly's sells it too, same price, and they also sell the 12-807 rebuild kit for the regulator. About $12, and includes a new diaphragm and spring. The diaphragm on mine started leaking after 6 - 7 years, all on gasohol. Very important to note, there is a relief hole on the top of the diaphragm cover, that needs to be oriented AWAY from the engine! Mine failed when the engine was cold and off, and squirted a nice stream right onto the exhaust manifold...

 

[oldford2]

I have a Holley regulator that I have not installed yet. Still trying to figure out the plumbing for copper lines. The Holley comes with 3/8 pipe threads (big). Any pictures of your plumbing? Thanks
John

 

[52merc]

i aree with pete plenty of advice but as always thinks he knows more about flatheads than anyone i dont know why he starts threads here must like ear bashing all the answers its about time he stuck to what he does best thrilling us with pics of his trips which are great ol henry you need to be sticking to what you know best and stay off this site because you just do not take advice thats why your posts end up being so long page 4 on this one

 

[Ross F-1]

I have a Holley regulator that I have not installed yet. Still trying to figure out the plumbing for copper lines. The Holley comes with 3/8 pipe threads (big). Any pictures of your plumbing? Thanks
John

I don't have any pics handy, and they probably wouldn't help because I have a truck. I had to get NPT adapters, and got ones that connect to double-flared steel tubing (brake line), I don't like rubber hoses. No leakage problems with this setup.

 

[51 MERC-CT]

If all else fails, perhaps some new additions to the family wardrobe

 

[Old Henry]

I have a Holley regulator that I have not installed yet. Still trying to figure out the plumbing for copper lines. The Holley comes with 3/8 pipe threads (big). Any pictures of your plumbing? Thanks
John

Here's my regulator plumbing:

 

[51 MERC-CT]

Suppose that you have checked all the possibilities but I had a similar situation once with gas smell in the garage, it turned out to be a cracked flange on top of the gas tank where the fuel gage sender mounts.

 

[Kube]

In a multitude of undertakings, and to conclude with positive results in solving any heat-related problem, HEAT and it's related properties need to be reasonably understood. Heat is a very real commodity, not unlike water if that particular commodity can help one "visualize" the concept. One must also remember that the EFFECTS of heat must be measured over some period(s) of time. Basically, heat can be created (as under your hood) as a form of energy-change (burning gasoline). Once heat is created, it cannot be un-created. Heat can only be (re)moved, or diluted with cooler air. Heat ALWAYS flows toward the LACK of HEAT...never TOWARD a greater heat. Effective HEAT (as in temperature of air) can be diminished by introducing large quantities of "not-as-warm" air, as in the ambient air (a huge heat sink) around your car, outside the hood. Your hood is an insulator to outside, cooler, ambient air. Just like in an air conditioner, we do not make cold air...we REMOVE heat from the air. That's why that condenser fan outside your home blows WARM air...that warm air is the heat that's been removed from your living space (moved somewhere else...outside). All we can do with heat is move it around. Just like in every old car that Henry Ford ever built, they get hot under the hood, and get even hotter after shutdown, as the higher heat in the engine moves toward the RELATIVELY lower air temp under the hood. In your particular case, you've found that if you open the hood BEFORE that normal, under-hood heat has TIME to rise in temperature to a point that triggers your OTHER MECHANICAL ANOMALIES to permeate their chain of effects (which MANY here have given you good advice to consider), you've only precluded the initial cause of ANOTHER chain of mechanical and physics events conducive to causing your "gas stink" situation. In other words, the hot under-hood temps (NORMAL) are only initiating a chain of deeper, underlying problem(s) with your fuel delivery system. As said before, several others have given some really good advice here to consider as to your REAL problem. You've shown that you have little regard for my input, and I frankly don't know why I'm taking the time to try to help ya here, but more than one person in this thread has tried to convince you (with great troubleshooting advice) that "band-aids" only cover-up deeper problems. I hope this helps, in some small way, for you to take into consideration ALL the symptoms that are present with your "smelly" dilemma. Nothing personal here henry...just trying to help. Your signature line is "spot-on". DD

V8COOPMAN, You are one of only a few guys that I tend to read religiously. Like the "few others" your advice is obviously well thought out and nearly always backed by proof. While (too many) folks have opinions, it seems to me, very few have opinions worth sharing.
Forums are a place to learn. We all must sort through the poopy to get to the frosting. Nearly all of us have the ability to learn. Too bad many either don't care to learn or perhaps already know everything.
Why you continue to help certain individuals is telling of the person you are - a person that actually cares enough to share what knowledge you have gleaned through your life. I for one appreciate that sharing.
Why you continue in your attempts to help certain individuals I am not so certain of. Perhaps you are a glutton for punishment?
My advice is that you continue being the person you are and stop suffering the fool(s).
My hope is you never become so disenchanted with said fool(s) as to stop sharing your knowledge. THAT would be a shame.

 

[Kube]

I'm wondering, when pressure builds in the line from pump to carb due to heat expansion, just how much volume would be required to relieve that excess pressure? Surely not so much as to overflow the float bowl, as there is very little volume in that short 1/4" line to begin with.

A related question here, the Shewman flexline with the checkvalve would contribute to an over-pressurized carb line. I never saw a need for a checkvalve there anyway.

Alan, I could not agree with you more in regard to the check valve in the fuel line. As is often the case in sales, if a person can't invent a better product he must invent a better "reason" for the consumer to believe he needs the product.