Anyone tried a Nu-Rex timing wrench?

I love mine. It made timing easy for a newbie. MY father-in-law came over to "show me how to do it" and got everything screwed up. The truck would barely start. He finally gave in and let me try "that new stuff" and 10 minutes later we were driving.
 
Bill in NJ,

Check out item # 17502 on page 3 of the Bratton's 2011 Catalog. It is on the "New Parts for 2011 page".
 
I don't get it.:confused: Isn't this just another tool to hold the cam still while the cam screw is tightened? I have the flat older cam tool to hold the cam, and this one is offset, so you don't have to remove the body.

Like Vince, I set the timing Ford's easy way, and I use my cam tool to hold the cam while I tighten the screw. Once the timing is set, it should be good for the life of the distributor. You simply readjust the points gap as they close up and the timing should be back where you initially set it.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
...Isn't this just another tool to hold the cam still while the cam screw is tightened? ...this one is offset, so you don't have to remove the body...
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When my friend helped me time mine, he used the tool as Tom suggested and timed it the Ford way, again like Tom said (nevermind the instructions). My friend said that it was a great tool -- just 'cause you don't have to remove the body!
 
The Nu-Rex timing tool would be great if I was on the Ford assembly line, but I'm not. I set the timing less than once a year with points and with Pertronix I set the timing once for each rebuild. Plus I have a timing tab on my engine to check the timing on slow days with nothing better to do.
 
If you have the loose modern plate, and the chrome plated repro cam you need the tool to set the cam by cap position because every time you move the plate the timing will be different.
 
I have used it several times and it has worked very well. I would reccomend it for all the newbies and some of us old timers too!
Pretty cool tool:D:D:D
I give it a 3 grin rating,LOL,
Ken
 
I agree with Vince .I have one and it does an ok job but seems to be a little retarded when I check it with Marcos way. Both my cars seem to run better with no kick back if I leave them timed as per Marco.-Karl
 
This thread confirms my believe that we talk a heap of hooey a lot of the time (me included I hasten to add!). Like Mr Tube says.. what's the point in absolutley accurate static timing anyway when as soon as we start driving on the highway we're adjusting (hopefully with some degree of effectiveness) the advance/retard lever to suit engine/fuel/driving style/speed etc ???
 
Wow, I didn't quite expect this many replies. So based on all the positive responses by those who've actually used the tool, I'm concluding that it does a pretty good job, quickly and easily. Those who demand "exact" base timing should probably stick with Henry's or Marco's procedures. Fair enough.

I can't help but think about what MrTube and johnbuckley said, though. "Exact" seems a bit less important when you adjust the lever anyway. Maybe "good" is good enough. Sure, a tool like this is unnecessary, but if it makes thing a little easier for a newbie like me, I just might give it a try.

Thanks for all of your responses!
 
I think "exact" in the initial setting of the distributor timing, keeps the extreme ends of the spark-lever in safe territory...

If you play fast & loose setting-up the timing, and run with the spark at one extreme of the other, you could get into trouble... maybe not...

If you have the initial timing set a little "hot" (advanced), and go blasting down the road with the spark lever pulled all the way down, I would think there's an increased risk of damage due to detonation... perhaps babbit damage too ?

Again, maybe the whole thing just isn't that precise...

How wide is the handle of the Nu-Rex wrench where it rests against #4 spark-plug contact ?
 
It's about 3/4 to 1 inch. But that doesn't matter anyway, since it's the leading edge that it's indexing off of.
 
I think that I'll get at least two so I can have one in the tool pouch of the cars we drive the most. When I first heard about it I thought it was for electronic ignition. After reading what some have said I can see that it would make setting the timing easier in regards to the backlash. I agree that you need full advance and retard movement in the cap body, That should be understood in any case. If the points are set correctly and the points cam is of correct manufacture the points will be in the correct position if the rotor tip is correctly pointed when the timing pin drops in place. This is just common sense to me. I really don't see where it makes any difference where the spark lever is. If the rotor tip is pointing in the correct position that is what matters. I guess they could also add things to look for when setting the timing like make sure that the ignition was turned off, the gas tank had fuel and check the oil. Things like that are only common sence Complicated instructions and backlash is what cause most to be running with retarded timing. In the day when the model A was new and the owners manual was printed, model A's didn't have backlash rotation in the distributor shaft. I think the thing about spark lever position and watching for the points was just an added precaution. I still say that if the rotor is aimed correctly the points will be just right if they are gapped correctly. Also points setting does effect timing but that doesn't mean that the distributor cam needs to be moved each time that the points need to be re set. The model A is a simple automobile dwell meters and timing lights really don't apply to the model A distributor. When I hear sombody talking about degrees it is obvious to me that they are trying to impress and their timing is usually way retarded and their model A is probably overheating and lacking power.
 
Don't be confused by the referance to the tool handle resting against #4 cap contact. BE SURE that the notch in the top of the shaft points toward the right front headlight, ( #1 cylinder )
 
CarlG said:
It's about 3/4 to 1 inch. But that doesn't matter anyway, since it's the leading edge that it's indexing off of.
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I think it does matter... a wider handle puts that leading edge further from the center-line through the wrench-handle & cam shaft, and would alter the cam position...

A wider handle would retard the setting slightly, a narrower one would advance slightly...

Again, maybe it's just splitting hairs...
 
The way the tool is made, as long as the relationshib between the leading edge and the index tab on the other end is the same. And as always - It's your choice to use it or not. I happen to have one of the tools, but I have yet to use it, so I can't personally attest to it's ease of use or accuracy.

I never cease to be amazed at how quick some people are to trash and/or condemn anything (or anyone) that remotely makes owning, working on, and driving our cars easier and more enjoyable.

I am not a master mechanic, and in no way profess to know very much at all about these cars. 50 years ago I looked to my Dad (who has forgotten more than I will ever know about Model As) for expert advice and help. Today I have to depend on my friends, fellow club memers, and the good people on this board to guide me. I consider what I have learned from these people in the past 1-1/2 years to be enjoyable and invaluable to the enjoyment I get out of my truck.
 
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