Anyone see any problems?

Two inches of sludge is not a good thing. Pop out the dipper pan and clean all of the gunk out. Your engine will last a lot longer.
 
The blue loctite is medium strength, do you think I should use that? What is the purpose of removing the dip stick before assembly? I did remove the dipper pan and cleaned everything out. Is the oil pump supposed to drop out with the pan? Is it going to be hard to get the oil pump lined up when it's going back together?
 
I would use the Red Loctite. It can always be removed with heat if, necessary.
I, personnally, would never weld the tube in place
 
jdp8402 said:
Is the oil pump supposed to drop out with the pan? Is it going to be hard to get the oil pump lined up when it's going back together?
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Yes, the oil pump is supposed to drop out. The oil pan against the spring holds the pump in place.

There's a plug with a screw slot in the block, below the valve cover, in line with the oil pump shaft. Unscrew the plug. The vendor's sell a part that screws in that hole, to hold the oil pump in place, while installing the oil pan. After installing the oil pan, reinsert the plug.
 
Just look up at the location of the notch in the drive gear and set the oil pump shaft to match it, then push the pump straight up. You can also wrap a thin wire half way around the pump and bring the 2 wire ends up the side of the block a few inches. Twist the ends together and pull them up with a bungee cord. This will hold the pump in place while you start a few pan bolts. Then cut the wire away and finish tightening the oil pan.

Remove the dipstick so it doesn't get jammed or bent on the dipper tray.
 
Would it be worth removing the caps and checking clearances at this point? That was one of the first things I did when I first got mine. My oil tube was missing also...leaked like a sieve when running...
 
Just a note, soak the new rope seal in oil for a day or two before assembly, it needs to soak up some oil or else it'll burn if you just install and run


Looking for the front bumper emblem that has "Ford, Made In Canada"
 
Tom W alluded to the 2 different sizes of Oil Tubes. One is 5/16" dia and the larger is 3/8" dia. They are not interchangeable. Be sure to measure the hole and order the correct size. A 5/16 and a 3/8 inch fine thread bolt can check the size. Careful checking though. The Tube is Pipe thread and the bolts are not pipe thread. Don't mess up the threads. Oh, and use RED locktite.
 
When you go to put your pan back on you're going to need these, they really, really help.
About 12 bucks online/plus shipping, bet you can get them cheaper down at your local auto parts store.
 

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Your right about that.
After working on my car all day I'm usually "beat"
 

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kenparker said:
Tom W alluded to the 2 different sizes of Oil Tubes. One is 5/16" dia and the larger is 3/8" dia. They are not interchangeable. Be sure to measure the hole and order the correct size. A 5/16 and a 3/8 inch fine thread bolt can check the size. Careful checking though. The Tube is Pipe thread and the bolts are not pipe thread. Don't mess up the threads. Oh, and use RED locktite.
Click to expand...


James Rogers
Senior Member



Join Date: May 2010
Location: Asheville,NC
Posts: 2,921


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Re: Rear Main Bearing
Vince is correct on all counts. If the tube is incorrect length or missing, it will leak and sometimes profusely. The thread for the tube is 3/8-32 and the tap is available from MSC. The small thread is a comparable 5/16-32 and can be found in the same place.
__________________

Bob
 
Anyone else heard of taking a 45 degree grind off the end of the tube just so if the tube is screwed in to far there is still oil passage down tube?
 
hale1776 said:
Anyone else heard of taking a 45 degree grind off the end of the tube just so if the tube is screwed in to far there is still oil passage down tube?
Click to expand...

So the tube can be screwed in to far? On Bert's website it says that the 5/16 is for a 28-29 and the 3/8 is for a 30-31. Can I trust that or should I check first? Also I see the tube has a bend. I assume that the bend points towards the front of the motor?
 
If you are unsure of what your block is, and it isn't where you can conveniently measure, just buy them both -- they aren't that expensive, and the freight is all the same.
 
I'm surprised that NO one told him that he needs an EXPENSIVE total rebuild.
SOME folks think money grows on PERSIMMON TREES!
Bill Cheep
 
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