Anyone see any problems?

J

jdp8402

Member
On another post I had I asked what kind of engine oil to use and I had a couple of replies saying that I should drop the oil pan to see what I'm working with. Well I decided to this morning so I was just wondering if anyone can see any problems that need to be addressed right away. I'm assuming that someone has had it off before because there was a bolt broke off. There is some sludge in the bottom of the pan. I ran a magnet through it and there is some very fine metal shavings. I would think that should be expected for such an old motor. Does anyone have any tips for me?

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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Good time to remove the rear main and check the babbit while you replace the missing tube.

Also the main bolts aren't turned the right way. The little bumps on the heads of the bolts should face straight in or straight out, so the cotter holes are easy to find.

The pipe gets screwed into the hole in the rear main, then it gets a small tack weld to keep it from turning out. Don't overheat the main and burn out the babbit.

I hope that red in the oil isn't some of your blood.:eek:
 
There was no blood. It must have been a reflection in the picture. This is sounding like more work than I was planning on doing right now.
 
Good time to check the cylinder walls, crank the engine and look into each one, check for scoring, gouges and the like.
The tube is not that hard to fix, overall does not look to bad.
Once you get it back together, run fresh oil for 100 or so miles, drain , refill, another 200-300 miles and repeat.
After that change oil as normal or as you feel the need.
My first year driving I changed oil a lot, but then again my car had sat for 53 years.
Oil is cheap...engines are not.

Did you find the tube in the bottom of the pan?
 
burner31 said:
Good time to check the cylinder walls, crank the engine and look into each one, check for scoring, gouges and the like.
The tube is not that hard to fix, overall does not look to bad.
Once you get it back together, run fresh oil for 100 or so miles, drain , refill, another 200-300 miles and repeat.
After that change oil as normal or as you feel the need.
My first year driving I changed oil a lot, but then again my car had sat for 53 years.
Oil is cheap...engines are not.

Did you find the tube in the bottom of the pan?
Click to expand...

I did not find the tube. I suppose that's another sign of someone having the pan off. What exactly does that tube do? Is it critical that I put it on now?
 
Yes, without the drain tube the crankcase pressure blows oil out the rear main and onto the ground.

Easy fix and most of the Model A parts houses should have a tube to sell you. Check the size, as there are 2 sizes used.
 
I found the tube on Bert's website so I think I'll order it. The problem is that I don't have a welder. Is there another way of making sure it doesn't unscrew itself? And that's oil on the teeth. The gears look really good. I don't see any signs of wear on them. Sorry if the pictures are deceiving, they're taken with a phone. And the lighting isn't that great.
 
Yes, someone has been in there fairly recently. Note the 12 point nuts on the connecting rods.
 
You can just screw oil return in. Go to local auto parts store tell them you want to screw something in and have it never come out buy that. When you order pan gasket get a valve cover gasket as well remover carb, intake and exhaust they come off as a single unit. The valve galley holds that last quart oil that never drains, the floor of the galley will have same sludge that was in bottom of pan. This sludge blocks the drain holes that lubes mains there are 3 of them coat hanger each make sure they are clear. If you do not do this you will always wonder why your new oil looks old so quickly. Once done use modern detergent oil and it will slowing flush out till engine clean and stays that way.
 
jdp8402 said:
I found the tube on Bert's website so I think I'll order it. The problem is that I don't have a welder. Is there another way of making sure it doesn't unscrew itself? And that's oil on the teeth. The gears look really good. I don't see any signs of wear on them. Sorry if the pictures are deceiving, they're taken with a phone. And the lighting isn't that great.
Click to expand...

Loctite should work, there are several types, one needs to be heated to get it apart, make sure the parts are clean before assembly (use brake cleaner) Just remeber, once it's screwed in and set, thats it (and just use a single drop on the threads, a little goes a long way) If you've never used it before, try a little on some bolt threads and screw the nut on, then attempt to take it apart the next day ;)
 
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