Anyone running 3.27:1 rear end?

fiddlybits

fiddlybits

Senior Member
I'm considering changing out the ring/pinion from 3.78 to 3.27 in order to lower my rpm 15% and not change the original appearance of the car.


Anyone driving a 3.27 have any good or bad comments on the 3.27?

I already know that it requires a strong engine and the 3.27 is more expensive. (but less expensive and not visible when compared to OD)

Rear end is already apart for axle replacement but I'm waiting on bearings. I figure now would be the time to do this since it's already apart. (someone decided to shorten the threads on the axle by 1/2", then put the nut on and drilled a hole through the nut and axle for the cotter pin. Less that 50% of the nuts thread were engaged.)
 

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Body style / weight / terrain makes a difference, I did 3:54 in my Tudor and would do a 3:27 if I ever do another. High rpm is a killer especially with all the assholes tailgating my *** when I was using a 3:78
 
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they say it takes a strong motor. but i wouldn't see why a stock engine wouldn't do it. i have a stock engine and can take off in 2nd gear with a little clutchin.
 
Ouch! I remember an old guy who did that in his Model-A and you should have seen the 2nd gear teeth when that transmission was opened up. Somebody asked him why he drove that way and his answer was that he grew up with the two speed Model-T and figured the Model-A could handle it.
 
I turned 2900 RPM, with 60 HP the rear wheels running a 3:54 rear end. It's 1931 A engine, closed drive shaft and a '39 3 speed. I tried the 3:27 gears and I bogged down in first gear. The diameter of the 16" wheels and Excelsior tires is pretty close to a stock 19" wheel. If I had to guess, I think that width of the tire has as much to do with the performance using 3:27 gears as anything else.
 

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fiddlybits said:
I'm considering changing out the ring/pinion from 3.78 to 3.27 in order to lower my rpm 15% and not change the original appearance of the car.


Anyone driving a 3.27 have any good or bad comments on the 3.27?

I already know that it requires a strong engine and the 3.27 is more expensive. (but less expensive and not visible when compared to OD)

Rear end is already apart for axle replacement but I'm waiting on bearings. I figure now would be the time to do this since it's already apart. (someone decided to shorten the threads on the axle by 1/2", then put the nut on and drilled a hole through the nut and axle for the cotter pin. Less that 50% of the nuts thread were engaged.)
Click to expand...

Bummer about that axle. I wouldn't even consider using it, unless last resort and stuck somewhere ! I also looks beat up otherwise from what's shown in picture.
Regarding the 3.27 rear ratio. I think that you maybe happy with what you end up with. I had same ratio in a '29 sport coupe , with a stock engine 'B' head. It was nice to travel a little faster with less engine rpms. You just learn to start with a little higher rpms and maybe even peddle clutch slightly to get a smooth start. As you say, 'more expensive'...do not know why, but that is the way it is. Lot less expensive than OD though.
Best part is that you now have hard part done, i.e.- rear out and apart ! I'd go for it :)

BTW...I had stock wheels/tires on my '29 (21"). I found that I could run in second gear well and longer, if I felt like the car was 'bogging down' with traffic conditions.
 
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X2 what Mitch said about tailgaters.
Times are sure different than back in the 50's and 60's.

I look forward to someday having a 3.27 ring and pinion. You'll also need to buy a speedometer gear adaptor, which Bert's sells.
 
I'd be careful about using the 327 gears. If you can't pull the hill you'll have to shift to second. Ugh! That's why I like the F150 overdrive. All syncro and upshift or downshift at any speed! Ron W
 
I considered this, but ultimately went with the 3.54. 90% of my driving is with my club and National events. If you are the only gent with long legs, it may be a miserable time in a pack of 3.78's. However, if you are solo most of the time, it seems like a good move.
 
I have installed more than 'just a few' including Tudors & Fordors with great reviews. The MAFCA Tech Director has a 3.27 in his Phaeton and ran the Blue Ridge Parkway tour a few years ago with ease.

Based on my own experiences, I believe any bodystyle can use a 3.27 with a basically stock engine if the camshaft is an original grind in specifictions or a Bill Stipe IB330. IMO, it takes an engine capable of making torque ...which the Touring Grind camshafts cannot do at lower RPMs.

What Greg stated above is VERY applicable in this case.
 
Ron W said:
...I like the F150 overdrive. All syncro and upshift or downshift at any speed! Ron W
Click to expand...

I also have the F150 OD, with 3.78 rear. I feel this gives me the best of both worlds. When on tour with a bunch of other guys, I'm on a par with them in 3rd gear. Going solo, 4th gear is just right. AND it's all synchromesh.
 
Thanks everybody, looks like this is the route i'm going to go......after I find a second rear end. My banjo is of the first generation and (without gussets) and it looks li,e I would have to change the driveshaft to change to the newer pinion. So, i'll reassemble the current axle to get back on the road and build up a new rear end and swap it.

The engine has burlington crank, IB330 cam, 6:1 HEAD and Stipe cam in distributer. Pulls like no tomorrow so it should handle the 3.27.
If I need to use 2nd gear it's no big deal to downshift.


Although I do drive on club tours most of my miles are daily driving and just bombing around on weekends exploring and getting lost on back roads. Usually tooling along at 55-60.
 
You'll do fine with the 3.27.
I also need to build up another rear end when I buy the gears, because I have the 3.70 1928 driveshaft.
 
im running 3:27 gears , but with a t-5 . I love it but have the splits to carry them ....
 
I'm the overcautious type and I'm always thinking of what effect it will have on the rest of the car. Drop down from 3.78 to 3.27? Yeah! anytime! But wait a minute, Won't that put more strain on the trans, clutch, and the biggie, the engine? Yes it will! The question is how much? Which one of the three is going to have to bear up under heavier work load. I live in a place called East Rockhill. You're either going up or down. Some of the "ups" are pretty strenous for my 3.78. I know there'd be no gain with a 3.27. Speed? Not enough power! Mileage? I'd be driving with my foot on the floor to try to get enough power. My engine has an HC head, probably been bored, Lightened flywheel and a B carb and it's fine on the flatter roads. But it strains to do 45 on a long, fairly steep road near by.
Terry
 
i tend to forget that not every where is as flat as where i live. if it wasnt for the trees i could see a friend wave 20 miles away.
 
FWIW: One way to look at it.

Everyone has always in the past stated different opinions on changing to 3:27's.

If one has a Mitchell, F150, or other arrangement, it makes sense from a financial perspective to stay with that combination; however, changing from a 3:78 to a 3:27 has benefits with today's highways, having less rpm's and engine wear, and saving fuel cost in the long run.

Also often mentioned is that a 3:27 works great in a Standard Coupe; but ...... that one should be extra careful installing a 3:27 in a "heavy" Town Sedan.

Actually this particular Town Sedan vs. Coupe vehicle weight difference is a mere 218 lbs.

Weight differences? Who has:

1. A full or 1/4 tank of gas with or without MMO.
2. A few extra tools and jacks, or an extra spare tire.
3. Under or over inflated tires.
4. Two (2) cases of beer on the floor board with snacks on top.
5. A 218 pound passenger.
6. Caution: Instant Suicide? Just try telling your 218 pound Mother-In-Law that you read on a Model A Forum that the reason you had to shift to second gear to climb that hill back there was because of her big 218 pound butt .......

One experience with a 1930 Briggs Town sedan:

Have an original Police Head marked "B", a 330 Stipe cam, and changed to a 3:27 R & P which works well climbing hills with six (6) passengers on four (4) wheels with 35 psi air in each tire.

Like many other comments, have no doubt a 3:27 would work well with a stock Model A engine that is in "good" shape ................ with or without Mother-In-Law sitting in the passenger seat .............. with two (2) cases of beer on her lap ............. right after she ate (5) burgers w/fries at McDonald's.

Just hope this helps one with decisions.
 
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fiddlybits said:
I'm considering changing out the ring/pinion from 3.78 to 3.27 in order to lower my rpm 15% and not change the original appearance of the car.


Anyone driving a 3.27 have any good or bad comments on the 3.27?

I already know that it requires a strong engine and the 3.27 is more expensive. (but less expensive and not visible when compared to OD)

Rear end is already apart for axle replacement but I'm waiting on bearings. I figure now would be the time to do this since it's already apart. (someone decided to shorten the threads on the axle by 1/2", then put the nut on and drilled a hole through the nut and axle for the cotter pin. Less that 50% of the nuts thread were engaged.)
Click to expand...

i HAVE HAD 3:27 GEAR IN MY tUDOR SINCE 2001, LATER ADDED NEWER POWER EQU. THIS IS GREAT RUNNING CAR READ MY INFO THRU AVATAR. hAVE FUN MODELaTONY TONY WHITE lAFAYETTE, la
 
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