Anyone encounter this and have a fix?

adileo

Well-known member
My remote for my garage doors will not work with my 52 F1 running. I shut it off and all doors work as they should with each remote.
 
Back when garage door openers were less sophisticated, I used to enjoy driving my hot rod down the street and watch people's garage doors open.
 
The RF or EMF if you will, is generated from several sources in the early Fords. Ignition systems are generally the largest contributor but the generator can also be a heavy source depending on how hard its working at any given time. Resistor spark plugs & suppression type high tension leads are used for the same purpose on modern vehicles. A capacitor can be installed in the generator circuit to suppress RF from that system. This stuff was done to get rid of the noise on the car radios back in the day too except they used resistor caps on the spark plug high tension leads.
 
The RF or EMF if you will, is generated from several sources in the early Fords. Ignition systems are generally the largest contributor but the generator can also be a heavy source depending on how hard its working at any given time. Resistor spark plugs & suppression type high tension leads are used for the same purpose on modern vehicles. A capacitor can be installed in the generator circuit to suppress RF from that system. This stuff was done to get rid of the noise on the car radios back in the day too except they used resistor caps on the spark plug high tension leads.

Ok thanks, let’s take this slow as your dealing with a person who knows next to nothing about capacitors.

I do recall removing a small devise from the 39 that was attached to the regulator. I was told it was used to help the am radio remove static. Can that be used on the generator? If yes where does it get put?

If no where do I get a capacitor? Does it carry a part number? And again where on the generator do I put it?
 
Andy, Capacitors= condensers. On my old Lincolns One was required on the generator, regulator and I think the gas tank sender. They were all supposed to eliminate static on the AM radio. I know as much about electronics as you do. Maybe Tom will offer some help. Bill
 
Thanks Bill & rest

Here’s a pic of geni if it helps
 

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Gents I’ll add one at a time till issue is corrected. Should I start with geni? Or voltage regulator? Where (what terminal) does the wire connect to?
 
Think there was a article in v8 times a couple issues ago that showed were the capacitors went on the iignition systems if you had a radio to eliminate static,
 
0.47 uF capacitor one end at the ARM on the genereator or regulator and other end of capacitor grounded.
My bet is that suppression ignition wires would make the biggest difference.
 
I have garage door remotes in all of my old Fords and I experience the same thing when the motors are running. I just hold the remote out the driver's window and they work fine or, as you indicated, just shut the engine off. Small price for all the fun I just had driving the old car! Pat
 
Sorry one more question.

Murre said on the arm terminal of regulator and when I went to link it showed the battery terminal of regulator- which one?


Holding remote out window didn’t help.
 
Usually most remotes and openers will give you choices as to the band signal. You might want to try and change that band on both the garage door motor and the opener first to a new matching band.
 
It´s the brushes in the generator that gives you the problem...so right at the back of the generator to ARM adressses that.
On the BAT of the regulator takes care of everything including points in the regulator...but leaves the wire between generator and regulator less suppressed.
Different aproaches....
 
It´s the brushes in the generator that gives you the problem...so right at the back of the generator to ARM adressses that.
On the BAT of the regulator takes care of everything including points in the regulator...but leaves the wire between generator and regulator less suppressed.
Different aproaches....

TY Sir.
 
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